Adjustable CDI for KDX 200 and 220- Interested?

[Octo777]

So just received the CDI. Just want to confirm I have this correct. With this two switches the 0 being the top the left is the low-mid and the right switch is the mid-high. Also is read in an earlier post SS109 you have you’d both set on the 3 position

[SS109]

Yes, top left is low to mid advance and right is mid to high retard. I can't remember sure what I ended up on settings wise. I'll get back to you tomorrow on that.

[Chuck78]

@ SS109, have you cleared out some of your projects to the point where you can make another batch of these? Myself and my friend want one, 2 for me actually, and perhaps 2 other KDX buddies...

I'd even fund you getting the circuit boards ordered and even the components if it'd help expedite things...

Ive tested my Jaguar ignition and love it, vut have been afraid to run it full time until I get some electrical potting epoxy. I'll fill it up to his adjustable switches, and then encase those in silicone sealant in case I ever change the settings. The first switch of his just shifts the curve, the second switch dials in some more retard on the higher revs for better top end performance and extended RPM range. I'd always want the performance range, and if switching to an aftermarket ignition stator that would accidentally advance the timing more (Jaguar's purpose for the 1st switch) I don't see why you wouldn't just rotate the stator plate a slight but clockwise to compensate, vs flipping a switch.

Thanks!

[Chuck78]

Hey MoonStomper I'm still wanting to try that adjustable CDI out.

If somebody else wanted it more badly, I could wait until the next revision as I would like something with a little less kick at the bottom but still maximum power up top, but I don't want to miss out on a chance to get one.

^^^^
I'm really really regretting this call now!!!

Does anyone have one they'd sell for their full purchase price including shipping????

[Chuck78]

I also noticed that mow RM Stator and Race Tech Electrics are selling an "HP PeakRPM" aftermarket CDI replacement.
They advertise it as a replacement for the stock unit, but with higher performance connotations.
When I inquired asking if they had a timing curve vs RPM chart to share, they advised that it is like a stock CDI, but "with the rev limiter removed." Seeing as how there is no rev limiter, this wording seemed to somewhat contradict their continuation of that statement, saying "it will allow you to obtain up to 1000 RPM over OEM equipment."

Screenshot_20231120-174935.png (503.03 KiB) Viewed 4059 times

Jaguar's ignition timing comparison graphs show his curve advancing about 250rpm earlier than stock, and reving out about 1500rpm higher than stock... That's awesome
This PeakRPM CDI gains about 1000rpk on the top if it functions as advertised, so for $49.00, that's not bad at all...BUT...an SS109 Wild Azz Racing CDI or Jaguar KDX Performance CDI would obviously be way better!

Also curious as to what they were benchmarking off of, because according to jaguar, he uses 5% tolerance electronic components for a lot tighter tolerances and more uniform performance out of multiple CDI's in his batch, whereas OEM only used 10% tolerance, which can lead to two different stock bikes performing quite differently with everything visibly set the exact same due to the tolerances and variances in the electronics components in the CDI having different values on opposite ends of the 10% tolerances. So I wonder if they just tested one random CDI and design the curve off of that, potentially allowing the one sole stock testing unit to be on the milder side of the 10% variances?

[SS109]

Honestly, I haven't had enough time to really dig in to the changes that I would like to make yet. Well, unless you count the time riding and keeping my Youtube channel growing but I don't want to cut back on those at the moment. I will try to start digging in to it and see if I can get it sorted.

[Trackdog]

Maybe I am no fully understanding this but perhaps someone can help with something.

OEM
IGNITER
21119-1432

$532.69 x 1

Aftermarket
PeakRPM CDI Box for Kawasaki KDX 200 1995-2006 | KDX 220 R 1997-2005 | OEM Repl.# 21119-1432 $49.00

Same part right?
Slight difference in price.....

[Chuck78]

The aftermarket unit will replace the existing OEM & is an absolute no-brainer versus buying a brand new OEM unit at $500, and allegedly the aftermarket RM Stator version has a 1000 RPM broader power curve. Same application, slightly revised part for better performance.

I was looking for one of the hand built custom ignitions that has a more broad power curve than even this aftermarket $49 CDI. Well worth it for those of us who are trying to get the maximum performance out of our machines in every department possible. I don't care if I have $5,000 into my bike, it will still be way cheaper than buying a brand new Beta 200RR Race or 250RR Race Edition, and SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than buying a brand new Austrian bike.

[Trackdog]

So I can't get the befits of a new Beta 200 out of my head!
BUT it is reassuring to the KDX is still alive and well. It's at the hare scrambles where I am still seeing the mean green machine.
And it is just awesome there is a site like this dedicated to this iconic bike.
And I also have invested a lot of time and money into mine, but I just want a good running reliable bike. The mods have been gradual so I can be competitive with the orange bikes. As I get better, so does my bike.
I am bought the RM Stator unit. Thanks Chuck. IO would not have known this existed.
Problem I have to ride the trails in New Hampshire, you must run an OEM exhaust. It's not a decibel thing which IMO it should be.
Hope this doesn't take the thread off the rails.

[Chuck78]

So I can't get the befits of a new Beta 200 out of my head!
BUT it is reassuring to the KDX is still alive and well. It's at the hare scrambles where I am still seeing the mean green machine.

And I also have invested a lot of time and money into mine, but I just want a good running reliable bike. The mods have been gradual so I can be competitive with the orange bikes. As I get better, so does my bike.
I bought the RM Stator unit. Thanks Chuck. I would not have known this existed.
Problem I have to ride the trails in New Hampshire, you must run an OEM exhaust. It's not a decibel thing which IMO it should be.

I spent last Saturday riding several Betas on a medium tight mildly technical woods loop. The 200RR Race Edition was an awesome machine!
Really, all of the two strokes were awesome, the XTrainer 300 was a bit tame for my tastes though, which is why people swap out the factory pipe for a factory 300RR pipe!
The 250RR was absolutely incredible and VERY FAST with only a slight feel of weight gain via the bike's handling, over the 200 RR Race Edition. I did notice the 250 RR felt significantly longer than the 200. This would make it a better hill climber without looping, but the 200 better in the tight woods. It's a compromise either way, but as is everything.
The 300RR was a BEAST! Sooo torquey, and revs out higher than I'd expected after riding 2016, 2017, & multiple 2021 KTM/Husqvarna/Gas Gas 300's. BUT... I was definitely faster on both the 200RR Race AND the standard 250RR , vs the heavier feeling 300RR. It still wasn't excessively heavy, but I could absolutely feel the gyroscopic effect of the heavier rotating assembly resisting slightly in the flickabilty of the bike in motion.
Also, the Sachs suspension did wonderfully in the rough choppy rutted out woods course. The KYB on the Race Edition definitely felt noticeably firmer. I've heard that the base valve compression adjuster assembly in the socks shocks really benefits from an aftermarket upgrade as they don't have much of a linear adjustment curve. People rip them out of KYB, Showa, and WP shocks as well and replace them with aftermarket for a wider range of adjustment, so this isn't really anything too terribly different.


Please test that HP PeakRPM ignition back to back with your existing stock ignition and let me know how it goes. I'll probably order one to test it out myself out of curiosity. I certainly hope their claims of 1,000 RPM higher rev out are accurate.

All that said, a broadened power band through ignition timing, suspension upgrades, machined cylinder head for tighter squish band clearance, aftermarket pipe, & proper jetting all make the KDX still quite a viable machine. So much so that I'm about to drop a ludicrous amount of money from my recent overtime paychecks to shave hopefully around 12 lb off of the bike in addition to I'm guessing five or six pounds saved from swapping the factory exhaust out.
My advice to you would be to run an FMF pipe with a black ceramic coating applied to it, and a pipe protector covering the logo on it! Looks very much like OEM... The pipes make a significant difference in the performance.
Or cut open the stock chamber, remove the inner lining which is a second layer of metal, and weld it back together. This will give it a little extra internal volume and boost performance a bit more akin to the FMF Gnarly Desert pipe