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Hi all - I have a 1997 KDX 200. Well used condition with unknown maintenance history. I had my first ride and then decided to do the top end. During disassembly referring to the top end parts diagram - I found the LHS nut (92015) on the Kips shaft (13107) to be very hard to undo. I went ahead and forced it but could only imagine this was putting all the resistance on the main valves inside the cylinder. Once undone the valves were temporarily wedged and I had to tap the assembly to free them. What should I have done to stop the shaft from spinning when I loosening this nut? I don’t want to damage the components or lose any teeth when torquing up on re-assembly.

Thanks

Not sure what you mean by LHS, but a bit of heat, some penetrating oil, and a quick hit with the impact driver will usually spin it right off. On reassembly, that nut only goes to 78 inch-lbs (8.8 N-m) so the assembly will be more than sufficient to support that without damage. Just for reference, there are a couple oil seals (92049-1238) that will not come with a top end gasket kit that should be replaced when you do the top.

Thanks for the reply - LHS (left hand side). Appreciate the heads up on the seals I’ll check my kit to see if they’re there. I did pull these as I ended up getting advised by the local engine reconditioning shop that the cylinder needed re-plating. I’ve sent that away and am waiting on an ETA to get it back. Good chance to order anything I’m missing. Do you happen to know the easiest way to access the actuator on the main Rod. I’m paranoid after reading other posts about damage to this pin. Do I need to remove the entire clutch cover or is there an easy way to check this?

The only left hand thread fastener on the bike is the pawl at the top of the KIPS rod. The easiest way to check that pin that rides in the KIPS governor is to pull off the right clutch cover

You might want to use a flat wrench, pliers, etc. to keep the rod from pivoting. There are a few threads on here about it where a couple have been broken.