Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
kickstart slip is still there unfortunately. Good news is i got the plug out. It was only finger tight.....
Some carbon built up but definitely not the worst ive seen.
ill put a new one in and properly tighten it. This one will get cleaned and put in the tool pouch in case i foul a plug on trail.
Some carbon built up but definitely not the worst ive seen.
ill put a new one in and properly tighten it. This one will get cleaned and put in the tool pouch in case i foul a plug on trail.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
realized my new plug is a BR9EIX. the small iridium tip type. Any reason to not use those in a kdx?Goofaroo wrote: ↑01:21 pm May 31 2021 Does this bike still have the odometer? How many miles shown?
Have you tried kicking it? If you don’t want to start it just hold the kill button. I’m curious if having the full range on the starter now may have fixed your perception that it was slipping.
Your plug should be B9ES. You can reach in there with a 13/16” wrench and crack it loose even with the tank on the bike. If you don’t know what plug is in it let’s have a look at it and see what shape it’s in.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Not that I know of. I’ve never used those plugs but it’s probably fine. The question is how loose was your plug?
That could certainly contribute to your pinging issue if in fact it is pinging.
The plug you pulled out looks pretty carboned up. Gotta wonder if it could be worse in the chamber. What does your air filter look like?
That could certainly contribute to your pinging issue if in fact it is pinging.
The plug you pulled out looks pretty carboned up. Gotta wonder if it could be worse in the chamber. What does your air filter look like?
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Looking at the picture of the plug it looks like it was pretty loose. Either clean it or stick in a new plug and run it. That might solve your problem but you still need to look at your air filter. That could certainly be part of this puzzle.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Ran around the yard with no issues with the new iridium plug. will have to take it down the road to be able to tell though. I cleaned and oiled the air filter when i got it, but its not the newest filter anyways...
One of the bolts on the head seemed to be spitting a little oil as if theres a leak. the bolt directly in front of the plug. not surw what that bolt is as it doesnt seem like one thats holding the head on. maybe inspection port? going to pull the tank to get a better look when i have the time.
Thanks again for all of your help!
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
92004A in the diagram. i guess it is one of the head bolts...
front and center bolt
front and center bolt
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Are you sure that bolt wasn’t already dirty from the plug being loose? If you think it’s leaking just snug it down for now. If your antifreeze is clean and your oil isn’t milky you probably don’t have a head gasket or water pump seal problem. I’m not where I can look at my bike right now but I think the bolt you’re referring to might just be a plug that can be used to burp the cooling system. You’ll be doing that when you replace your radiator(s).
For now let’s see if your noise is gone. That plug looks like it was very loose. Your motor was blowing off some compression but more relevant is that it was sucking in unmetered air on the downstroke. That could very well be the culprit here.
For now let’s see if your noise is gone. That plug looks like it was very loose. Your motor was blowing off some compression but more relevant is that it was sucking in unmetered air on the downstroke. That could very well be the culprit here.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Snug it down a bit and see what happens. You might as well check all the head bolts and the base.
When you replace the radiator you might as well pop in a new head gasket.
Meanwhile let’s see if tightening the plug has cured the “rattle” you were hearing.
When you replace the radiator you might as well pop in a new head gasket.
Meanwhile let’s see if tightening the plug has cured the “rattle” you were hearing.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Please forgive me if I sound like a douche to say "run it until it pops". On page four of you asking for all kinds of help and people spending time and effort to assist you, you post that you couldn't even be bothered to have the plug tightened properly.
Please take a few steps back, obtain a service manual and read, read, read on how to repair motorcycles.
As far as plugs, I doubt anyone needs a 9 in a 1986 - 1988 or 1989 - 1994 KDX200. I suggest an "8" unless you are running in sand dunes. The 1995+ bikes use an "8". I assert it is too cold of a plug.
Buy NGK BR8ES plugs until you have your jetting perfect, then get a BR8EIX.
Good luck.
Please take a few steps back, obtain a service manual and read, read, read on how to repair motorcycles.
As far as plugs, I doubt anyone needs a 9 in a 1986 - 1988 or 1989 - 1994 KDX200. I suggest an "8" unless you are running in sand dunes. The 1995+ bikes use an "8". I assert it is too cold of a plug.
Buy NGK BR8ES plugs until you have your jetting perfect, then get a BR8EIX.
Good luck.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
I was recommending a B9ES (or BR9ES) based on what was in my bike and verified by the factory service manual.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
"Couldn't even be bothered to have the plug tightened properly"??KDXGarage wrote: ↑02:33 pm Jun 01 2021 Please forgive me if I sound like a douche to say "run it until it pops". On page four of you asking for all kinds of help and people spending time and effort to assist you, you post that you couldn't even be bothered to have the plug tightened properly.
Please take a few steps back, obtain a service manual and read, read, read on how to repair motorcycles.
As far as plugs, I doubt anyone needs a 9 in a 1986 - 1988 or 1989 - 1994 KDX200. I suggest an "8" unless you are running in sand dunes. The 1995+ bikes use an "8". I assert it is too cold of a plug.
Buy NGK BR8ES plugs until you have your jetting perfect, then get a BR8EIX.
Good luck.
I clearly stated that I had tried to get in there but I did not have the right tool. I apologize that my tool quiver is insufficient for your taste, but I'm a nineteen year old kid and my neither of my socket sets had the right size.
As soon as I had the right tool I pulled the plug to inspect it and clean/replace if necessary. Being self taught, I'm not half bad with a wrench. I don't go around pretending I know everything- thats why I come here to ask questions.
I can tell you've got knowledge about these bikes and I respect that, but if you're gonna be disrespectful, at least read the thread so you know what you're talking about in relation to that.
And the factory service manual states the plug should be a "9". I figure with a stock bike, I should probably use what the engineers who created the bike, designed it to run on.
I apologize that I am using an internet forum designed to help people learn more about their kdx, to learn more about my kdx.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Have you ridden it yet? I’m hoping your noise is gone.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
I just got off work and im gonna go inspect that head bolt a little before I jump the gun. I gotta wait until night time so i can sneak a lap around the block without any cars on the road too. You will be the first to know how it goes!
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
The "9" plug portion was written by the same lawyer that said to take the cylinder off to use emery cloth after start up, etc. My 2005 KX250 owner's manual states to change the rings every 7.5 hours and piston at 15. There's a fair amount of "legalese" in there.
Please don't lecture me on what I know from experience in testing plugs in my "E" model. Young man, riding around with a plug loose does not exactly earn you the grade of "not half bad with a wrench". :-)
I don't really need to read the thread. I was on dirt bike forums reading about KDX's, people's experience with them, etc. when you came out of the womb. Not only have I seen "your type" before, I once was "your type". I just didn't have the internet to ask for help, so I learned it on my own without posting about how the learning was going. :-)
Throw the used plug in the garbage. How far do you want to push it back to the truck/house? For about $3, you can buy a new one instead of saving money and hoping it will get you back home/to the truck.
Please don't lecture me on what I know from experience in testing plugs in my "E" model. Young man, riding around with a plug loose does not exactly earn you the grade of "not half bad with a wrench". :-)
I don't really need to read the thread. I was on dirt bike forums reading about KDX's, people's experience with them, etc. when you came out of the womb. Not only have I seen "your type" before, I once was "your type". I just didn't have the internet to ask for help, so I learned it on my own without posting about how the learning was going. :-)
Throw the used plug in the garbage. How far do you want to push it back to the truck/house? For about $3, you can buy a new one instead of saving money and hoping it will get you back home/to the truck.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Damn, pickin on kids for being young, using their resources, and learning. Nice.KDXGarage wrote: ↑03:29 pm Jun 01 2021 The "9" plug portion was written by the same lawyer that said to take the cylinder off to use emery cloth after start up, etc. My 2005 KX250 owner's manual states to change the rings every 7.5 hours and piston at 15. There's a fair amount of "legalese" in there.
Please don't lecture me on what I know from experience in testing plugs in my "E" model. Young man, riding around with a plug loose does not exactly earn you the grade of "not half bad with a wrench". :-)
I don't really need to read the thread. I was on dirt bike forums reading about KDX's, people's experience with them, etc. when you came out of the womb. Not only have I seen "your type" before, I once was "your type". I just didn't have the internet to ask for help, so I learned it on my own without posting about how the learning was going. :-)
Throw the used plug in the garbage. How far do you want to push it back to the truck/house? For about $3, you can buy a new one instead of saving money and hoping it will get you back home/to the truck.
Anyways, if you want to help me out while you're here. Whats the benefit of a #8 plug over a #9? I see you imply the #8 runs cooler, but wouldn't that cause more carbon buildup?
Send me off to go find the info somewhere else if you want to, but I know you've got it, and I'd genuinely appreciate your help.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
I just rode it and the noise seems quieter. It pulls strong and feels very healthy. I think I am not used to the sound and feel of a two stroke, which could be part of it. I need a few more hours on it to get a really good feel for how it behaves.
I think once I get it all wired for road use and plated that I will be able to ride it more and get more comfortable with the bike and know how it acts/sounds healthy vs unhealthy.
Next up is new pads/rotors. these things have no power, and rear is pretty warped. Gonna look on rockymtnatv unless you have any suggestions of a good quality set.
Thanks again Goofaroo!
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
I’m glad to hear it was a simple fix.
Organic pads will perform well and generally they are the cheapest. They’re also easier on your rotors than ceramic or sintered pads. The pads below would work fine and for the money order 2 sets so you’ll have spares. If you like to spend more the EBC Kevlar pads are organic (no asbestos) and work pretty much like less expensive organic pads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154010498028
Don’t expect pads to solve your brake problems. The calipers need to be cleaned and the pins need to be lubed. You probably also need fresh fluid and a proper bleeding. The brakes on your KDX should be very powerful and easy to modulate. If they aren’t they need some maintenance.
Organic pads will perform well and generally they are the cheapest. They’re also easier on your rotors than ceramic or sintered pads. The pads below would work fine and for the money order 2 sets so you’ll have spares. If you like to spend more the EBC Kevlar pads are organic (no asbestos) and work pretty much like less expensive organic pads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154010498028
Don’t expect pads to solve your brake problems. The calipers need to be cleaned and the pins need to be lubed. You probably also need fresh fluid and a proper bleeding. The brakes on your KDX should be very powerful and easy to modulate. If they aren’t they need some maintenance.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Hey emmett,
First of all, welcome! I'm happy to see a 19 year old kid posting on here looking for help, rather than sitting on the couch playing games... I've enjoyed watching this thread over the last few days, but haven't had any valuable input.
I will say this however...KDXGarage is one of the most valuable resources out here for these machines. He's definitely one to keep on your side...
As for the plug, the 8 is a hotter plug than the 9. I think what KDXGarage is saying is that the bike will actually perform better with an 8 than a 9. Sometimes, the manual will recommend the "safest" route (as in "I would rather have a fouled plug than a hole in the piston) rather than the more practical route for the average rider. You should be fine with the 8 and the engine will run better.
I also agree, just spend 3 bucks at the local parts store and get a BR8ES or at least a new 9 instead of running a "who knows when this thing was changed last" plug.
As for pads, just get whatever pads are cheapest. I usually buy the cheap Tusk brand. They seem to work just fine compared to others. I'll have to defer to others on the rotors...
As for tightening/changing the spark plug, I keep one of these on me at all times.
First of all, welcome! I'm happy to see a 19 year old kid posting on here looking for help, rather than sitting on the couch playing games... I've enjoyed watching this thread over the last few days, but haven't had any valuable input.
I will say this however...KDXGarage is one of the most valuable resources out here for these machines. He's definitely one to keep on your side...
As for the plug, the 8 is a hotter plug than the 9. I think what KDXGarage is saying is that the bike will actually perform better with an 8 than a 9. Sometimes, the manual will recommend the "safest" route (as in "I would rather have a fouled plug than a hole in the piston) rather than the more practical route for the average rider. You should be fine with the 8 and the engine will run better.
I also agree, just spend 3 bucks at the local parts store and get a BR8ES or at least a new 9 instead of running a "who knows when this thing was changed last" plug.
As for pads, just get whatever pads are cheapest. I usually buy the cheap Tusk brand. They seem to work just fine compared to others. I'll have to defer to others on the rotors...
As for tightening/changing the spark plug, I keep one of these on me at all times.
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Re: Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)
Also...Get a manual for sure. Greatest piece of advice given. It doesn't matter much which one, as long as you have one. I prefer printed because let's face it...Nobody likes using a mouse and keyboard with greasy fingers, but even a digital version is fine.