Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)

[Goofaroo]

I was just trying to help. I still don’t understand why you can’t mount the kickstarter in the correct position. It would give it a better chance to operate properly if it had it’s full range to work with.

It’s too bad you can’t move it forward a few teeth and give it a whirl but apparently that is not going to happen.
Let us know what the knock or rattle or whatever it is was when you figure it out.

[emmett]

I was just trying to help. I still don’t understand why you can’t mount the kickstarter in the correct position. It would give it a better chance to operate properly if it had it’s full range to work with.

It’s too bad you can’t move it forward a few teeth and give it a whirl but apparently that is not going to happen.
Let us know what the knock or rattle or whatever it is was when you figure it out.

Dont get me wrong I appreciate your help very much. The bolt/nut that holds the kickstarter shaft on would not come off, and thats why i couldnt adjust it.

The actual arm was also stuck on there, but that part isnt the part with any adjustment, just taking it off or on. If i couldve gotten the bolt out then I could have made the adjustment a couple of splines forward.

Im sure if I spend a couple hours with it, I would be able to get it apart, but I did not have the time yesterday.

Sorry for any confusion.

[Goofaroo]

There is a nut on the end of the shaft. Why can’t you get it off?

[emmett]

This photo isnt my bike, but here is what I am talking about.

The nut/bolt that is circled would not budge, and i was afraid I would do internal damage if i really reamed on it. Since the kickstart slips, my wrench would too as I leaned into it. I didnt want to use an impact because Im afraid that the gears inside would just shear apart with that force. I tried a little bit of heat but I didnt want to cook the kickstarter seal behind it.

The arrow pointing up is showing what I meant when I said the arm would not slide off. That one may take a little gentle tapping/working to get it off, but I figured if I couldnt get the bolt out of the splined shaft, theres no reason to pull the arm off.

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[Goofaroo]

That’s the one. Why can’t you get it off?

[Goofaroo]

Take a picture of what you have right now

[emmett]

That’s the one. Why can’t you get it off?

The circled bolt is seized. I will have another go at it in a little bit.

Take a picture of what you have right now

Doesnt look like much since its all back together, but here it is. Washer on there is a new copper one i put on when i put it back together since the old one was nasty.

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[Goofaroo]

One way or another it needs to come off. You might start spraying it with penetrating oil and see if you can get it to budge. If not an impact driver might break it loose.

Are you sure the kick lever is not able to make contact with the pipe and that is the noise you’re hearing? Your engine sounds pretty healthy from what you’ve shown us in the video. The radiator “mount” also seems suspect.

How about a pic of the condition of your rear sprocket? Are you getting any undulating or odd rhythmic sounds and vibrations from the chain?

[emmett]

One way or another it needs to come off. You might start spraying it with penetrating oil and see if you can get it to budge. If not an impact driver might break it loose.

Are you sure the kick lever is not able to make contact with the pipe and that is the noise you’re hearing? Your engine sounds pretty healthy from what you’ve shown us in the video. The radiator “mount” also seems suspect.

How about a pic of the condition of your rear sprocket? Are you getting any undulating or odd rhythmic sounds and vibrations from the chain?

got it! just took a 2x4 as a brace and some muscle. guess i just had to step away for a little. in process of cleaning it all up now. Splines on the bottom of the inside of lever seem pretty shot, although thats not my issue because if thats what was slipping then it wouldnt keep returning to 12 o clock after kicking it.... gonna start searching for ebay replacements anyways- definitely past due. unless anyone knows of a good aftermarket assembly?

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I am sure the kick lever cant touch the pipe, and im also sure that the radiator is not the sound I was describing. I am really thinking (or maybe more hoping) it could be chain related. I will have to get it up to speed again to think about it some more.

Rear sprocket isnt too bad. Ill clean the chain and test it out once i get it back together to see if thats my issue.

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[emmett]

after cleaning it, i realize those splines are in good shape, they just appeared stripped when thats how they were designed.

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[Goofaroo]

There’s some wear on your sprocket but it’s not as bad as I expected. How does the chain sound with the rear tire off the ground and spinning it by hand? Is the slack adjusted properly? If you rotate the rear wheel and check the slack as you go does it have tight spots and loose spots?

[Goofaroo]

I thought your splines might clean up. Move it into the correct position and see if your starting seems more consistent.

[emmett]

There’s some wear on your sprocket but it’s not as bad as I expected. How does the chain sound with the rear tire off the ground and spinning it by hand? Is the slack adjusted properly? If you rotate the rear wheel and check the slack as you go does it have tight spots and loose spots?

no tight/loose spots and it sounds uniform. Ill clean and lube it anyways. Slack is about 1.5" movement if i push up on the chain below the swingarm.

[emmett]

I thought your splines might clean up. Move it into the correct position and see if your starting seems more consistent.

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looks like yours now. Ill wait on starting it until i get my chain cleaned up

[Slick_Nick]

Run AvGas and see if the pinging goes away. That's the easiest way to tell if it's the timing or not. I use AvGas in all my bikes, 2 stroke and 4. In the race cars too!

[emmett]

Run AvGas and see if the pinging goes away. That's the easiest way to tell if it's the timing or not. I use AvGas in all my bikes, 2 stroke and 4. In the race cars too!

haha its hard to take advice from someone with that avatar

haha just kidding, i think im going to do just that. found out the owners manual is useless for timing. all it says is something like "timing should never need to be adjusted".

I really do need the service manual...

[Goofaroo]

I’m not sure if I can post a picture from the factory service manual here but if you pull the flywheel you’ll see three marks on the stator. The middle mark should line up with a mark on the crankcase. Also check the flywheel key. I’m guessing your timing is okay but it certainly wouldn’t hurt to find out for sure.

[emmett]

I’m not sure if I can post a picture from the factory service manual here but if you pull the flywheel you’ll see three marks on the stator. The middle mark should line up with a mark on the crankcase. Also check the flywheel key. I’m guessing your timing is okay but it certainly wouldn’t hurt to find out for sure.

Ive got an 85w stator on order right now, so ill be getting in there anyways. I will check it when i pull it apart to put that new stator in. Thanks!

[Goofaroo]

Does this bike still have the odometer? How many miles shown?

Have you tried kicking it? If you don’t want to start it just hold the kill button. I’m curious if having the full range on the starter now may have fixed your perception that it was slipping.

Your plug should be B9ES. You can reach in there with a 13/16” wrench and crack it loose even with the tank on the bike. If you don’t know what plug is in it let’s have a look at it and see what shape it’s in.

[emmett]

Does this bike still have the odometer? How many miles shown?

Have you tried kicking it? If you don’t want to start it just hold the kill button. I’m curious if having the full range on the starter now may have fixed your perception that it was slipping.

Your plug should be B9ES. You can reach in there with a 13/16” wrench and crack it loose even with the tank on the bike. If you don’t know what plug is in it let’s have a look at it and see what shape it’s in.

odo was broken when i got it. read "59mi". not sure if broken early on in ownership or rewound haha. I will see if i can sneak a wrench in there, but it didnt seem possible last time i tried. ill look for a skinny walled deep socket if ive got one the right size. would love to pull that plug out and take a look.

Bikes still up on the jack but ill let you know how it is when i kick it over.