Hard clutch pull
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Hard clutch pull
Hi guys, since I got the bike about 2.5 years ago the clutch has been hard to pull, similar to a hand grip strengthener. Not bad for fast ridding but technical stuff it's a pain. I drove other bikes that were way easier. I tried lubing the cable no change, I swapping the cable, no change. I checked the clutch cable is routed properly no kinks. Someone here said I should be able to push the clutch actuator arm by hand but I can't, not even close.
So I decided to inspect the clutch, I removed the clutch cover. The actuator arm is like new and moves smoothly. The clutch springs are at about 37mm each. My Kdx200 manual (I have a Kdx220) says 38.7mm standard and 37.2mm service limit.
Also it's happened once last year that I couldn't shift up in 3rd or 4th gear. Could be a fluke as I don't clutch when shifting up most of the time. I only let off the gas.
I haven't yet inspected the clutch basket but what are your thoughts on the cause?
So I decided to inspect the clutch, I removed the clutch cover. The actuator arm is like new and moves smoothly. The clutch springs are at about 37mm each. My Kdx200 manual (I have a Kdx220) says 38.7mm standard and 37.2mm service limit.
Also it's happened once last year that I couldn't shift up in 3rd or 4th gear. Could be a fluke as I don't clutch when shifting up most of the time. I only let off the gas.
I haven't yet inspected the clutch basket but what are your thoughts on the cause?
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- bufftester
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Well, your clutch springs are beyond the wear limit, so that's not helping matters.. I would also inspect your frictions and steels for wear since you have it all open. Some KDX's are known to have stiff clutches, plenty of threads on here about that, just search clutch pull. You can lengthen the clutch actuating lever to get an easier pull, or go to a Magura hydraulic unit. Read this thread for an alternative lever. Your clutch basket looks pretty good from that pic, not much noticeable notching which is good.
- KDXGarage
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Re: Hard clutch pull
A fall of 1993 initial release date for the KDX220R in UK means these bikes were designed before then, so in part, you have a real old design clutch system.
As bufftester mentioned, check the plates. Beyond that, KX125 lever arm.
As bufftester mentioned, check the plates. Beyond that, KX125 lever arm.
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To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Ordered OEM clutch springs.
Just to be sure is this the correct lever arm https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.co ... kidb&a=455 part number 13236 off a 1993 KX125?
I can also replace my perch with MSR or something similar.
Just to be sure is this the correct lever arm https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.co ... kidb&a=455 part number 13236 off a 1993 KX125?
I can also replace my perch with MSR or something similar.
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Well looks like the KX125 actuator arm is discontinued by kawasaki. eBay has stupid shipping to Canada. I guess I'll see how the clutch feels after this and probably replace the lever.
- Slick_Nick
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Kawasaki makes washers to place between the release arm piston and the hub bearing, you can install up to two if I recall. The procedure is in the service manual.
'00 KDX 220R
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Well I hate to say it but unless some sort of weird binding is going on, then ordering new springs will probably make it harder to pull. Pretty much what happens with the springs is as they wear and lose length they do not put enough pressure on the clutch disks and then your clutch slips. This is the same for having worn plates. If your clutch isn't slipping then it has nothing to do with the springs, steel or friction plates. When the springs wear out the clutch gets easier to pull. Same thing goes for the plates. If you get new thicker plates there will be even more spring pressure and more distance required when pulling the clutch lever to make the plates spin freely.
One trick people do is use springs from another application that have slightly less spring pressure, but enough to keep the bike from slipping.
The REAL fix is to lengthen your clutch actuator arm where the cable attaches. This will give you more leverage on the springs and make the clutch easy to pull. It's not a quick easy fix but if you take the time to do it, you will be very happy. Something like a 1/2" in length can make a huge difference.
Other then that I would check to make sure your actuator arm shaft is not binding in the case when pressure is put on it. Make sure its clean in the hole and if it has the two sets of bearings in there make sure they are good by putting a good amount of sideways force on it and actuating it.
I did a quick google search to give you an idea and found these images I included them below:
One trick people do is use springs from another application that have slightly less spring pressure, but enough to keep the bike from slipping.
The REAL fix is to lengthen your clutch actuator arm where the cable attaches. This will give you more leverage on the springs and make the clutch easy to pull. It's not a quick easy fix but if you take the time to do it, you will be very happy. Something like a 1/2" in length can make a huge difference.
Other then that I would check to make sure your actuator arm shaft is not binding in the case when pressure is put on it. Make sure its clean in the hole and if it has the two sets of bearings in there make sure they are good by putting a good amount of sideways force on it and actuating it.
I did a quick google search to give you an idea and found these images I included them below:
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'91 KDX 250 D1
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Thanks for your input. I wonder if something like this could work https://www.ebay.com/itm/324560748639
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Hard to say looking at the pictures if that exact part will work, but yes that is in the right direction. You will have to check the measurements and make sure you have room down there. That particular one looks a little bulky, and looks like you would have to modify your original to make that work, if it would, with the large shaft opening. If you aren't a welder you could easily take your arm to someone and have them cut it in half and put a little 1" piece of steel and welding it up , like pic #2. For probably around the same price. I think buying something after market like that may give you more headaches then your looking for. The other option I would consider if you can't get it welded is buying an extra actuator for your bike ,if you can find one...., so you have an extra and then taking a stab at modifying it with a small bracket like pic #1 or #3 so your bike isn't out of action while your working on it. With a vice, hammer, pliers and drill I think a guy could come up with something if you take your time.
EDIT: You may want to check into your lever & perch as well, If it's the incorrect perch angle/pivot point, and/or binding, It could make it difficult, I figured you were already looking into that portion with your earlier post.
EDIT: You may want to check into your lever & perch as well, If it's the incorrect perch angle/pivot point, and/or binding, It could make it difficult, I figured you were already looking into that portion with your earlier post.
Last edited by PacificNWRider on 07:12 pm Apr 22 2021, edited 1 time in total.
'91 KDX 250 D1
- Slick_Nick
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Re: Hard clutch pull
The KDX has one of the lightest clutch pulls of any bike I've ever ridden, if its not easily actuate with one finger, there's something wrong.
And yes, I run "heavy duty" stiff clutch springs as well.
And yes, I run "heavy duty" stiff clutch springs as well.
'00 KDX 220R
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Tell that to my 4'11" wife. YFMMV - Your Finger Mileage May Vary.
Im 6'2 so I can pull my clutch with my pinky because of better leverage, with a finger or hand half as long its 4x harder to pull. Its the same for the lever on the actuating arm, which is why its a very common practice to lengthen it.
Im 6'2 so I can pull my clutch with my pinky because of better leverage, with a finger or hand half as long its 4x harder to pull. Its the same for the lever on the actuating arm, which is why its a very common practice to lengthen it.
'91 KDX 250 D1
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Re: Hard clutch pull
I had a similar problem. For me replacing the the clutch lever cable mount (on the handlebar), cleaning and lubing the actuator arm solved the problem.
The previous clutch lever setup I had that came with when I bought my bike didn't fit well and didn't have enough leverage on the cable.
Also I suggest moving your clutch lever a bit further away from your hands so that when you use it you grab near the ball end and get more leverage, having it here also helps prevent snapping it when it falls because it'll be sticking out less.
The previous clutch lever setup I had that came with when I bought my bike didn't fit well and didn't have enough leverage on the cable.
Also I suggest moving your clutch lever a bit further away from your hands so that when you use it you grab near the ball end and get more leverage, having it here also helps prevent snapping it when it falls because it'll be sticking out less.
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Re: Hard clutch pull
I was able to get the arm extended by 10mm just didn't get around to installing it yet. I'll let you know how it goes as soon as I can test it.
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Test drove the KDX and the feel is awesome and no difference in clutch engagement. I can now 1 finger clutch all day YAY.
- KDXGarage
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Re: Hard clutch pull
Hey, all right! Thanks for the follow up!
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