Just Completed Electrical Conversion to DC . . .
Posted: 07:52 am Mar 05 2020
Fellow KDX’ers! I just wrapped up final testing on my '03 220’s electrical system conversion from an AC to DC, complete with charging and a 6 AH LiPo battery. I made a quick video that I’ll post here. I got most of the fundamental information from a variety of internet sources. I relied on a friend who is 1400 miles from me for advice when I got stumped, more than a few times. He’s an avionics technician and I am electrically challenged. This was a fun and rewarding project for me to complete. I will work on putting together a list of the parts I used for this conversion in case anyone is interested. Plated in South Dakota and insured, my KDX is reasonably street legal. I took it on the road yesterday and a guy I was following pulled over to watch me go by - Braaaap!, likely wondering about a smoker on the road with lights and all. Several others in neighborhoods gave me thumbs up when hearing the bike go by.
Battery-
Plate Lights-
Plate holder-
Universal Light Turn Signal Switch, Flasher Relay & Horn- This switch is superior to the Tusk, which I also bought but decided not to use.
Turn signals-
These are impressive and do not require the installation of a flasher for them to function properly. They also have the bright white LEDS when the turn signal is not being used. I didn’t use the white for the rear mounting as they are too bright. These are made to wrap around the upper fork, but fit nicely on my bark-busters. I made a mount for the rear using a pice of aluminum flat stock attached to my license plate holder.
Brake switch-
I installed a single switch on my front brake line. Using the rear will require some adapting because of restrictions.
Trail Tech Regulator/Rectifier-
Battery Tender accessory cable that can be used for a variety of tasks-
Switch-
This serves as a master to turn off/on all of my electrical at one time. If this switch is off, none of the lighting/horn will function, for the obvious reason.
85 Watts Stator from Ricky Stator- https://www.rickystator.com/product/sta ... coil-89-on
I plan to rewind the original stator that I removed for the new install to see if I am able to get more than Ricky’s 85 watts, simply out of curiosity and to attempt something else I’ve never done.
UFO Rear Fender- https://www.ebay.com/itm/333211305173
I ordered and installed one of these because I didn’t want to make holes or otherwise damage the original fender. As it turns out, I could have left the original on because I dint go the route I originally intended. Thats said, there is a possibility of building a small, aluminum fender rack that. I you choose to use the factory rear fender, you can buy a tail light for a WR450R that is a direct fit and haas a tail/brake light combination. I bought one via eBay that I will use if I go back to the original fender. This light will not fit the UFO fender.
NOTE- The light socket on the UFO fender is plastic garbage and I had to swap it out for a metal one-
It’s really poor that UFO makes a descent fender and installs plastic junk to save a few cents and create aggravation and work to make it correct.
I built up my wiring harness using individual wires. Doing it again I would purchase a trailer wiring harness with four wires- Brake, LT, RT & ground. I would run them to the front where the battery is located and connect to the front turn signals using 2 into 1 butt connectors for a much neater/cleaner installation. It’s not a difficult task to accomplish and it’s cool to have a KDX with a a fully functioning electrical system.
Battery-
Plate Lights-
Plate holder-
Universal Light Turn Signal Switch, Flasher Relay & Horn- This switch is superior to the Tusk, which I also bought but decided not to use.
Turn signals-
These are impressive and do not require the installation of a flasher for them to function properly. They also have the bright white LEDS when the turn signal is not being used. I didn’t use the white for the rear mounting as they are too bright. These are made to wrap around the upper fork, but fit nicely on my bark-busters. I made a mount for the rear using a pice of aluminum flat stock attached to my license plate holder.
Brake switch-
I installed a single switch on my front brake line. Using the rear will require some adapting because of restrictions.
Trail Tech Regulator/Rectifier-
Battery Tender accessory cable that can be used for a variety of tasks-
Switch-
This serves as a master to turn off/on all of my electrical at one time. If this switch is off, none of the lighting/horn will function, for the obvious reason.
85 Watts Stator from Ricky Stator- https://www.rickystator.com/product/sta ... coil-89-on
I plan to rewind the original stator that I removed for the new install to see if I am able to get more than Ricky’s 85 watts, simply out of curiosity and to attempt something else I’ve never done.
UFO Rear Fender- https://www.ebay.com/itm/333211305173
I ordered and installed one of these because I didn’t want to make holes or otherwise damage the original fender. As it turns out, I could have left the original on because I dint go the route I originally intended. Thats said, there is a possibility of building a small, aluminum fender rack that. I you choose to use the factory rear fender, you can buy a tail light for a WR450R that is a direct fit and haas a tail/brake light combination. I bought one via eBay that I will use if I go back to the original fender. This light will not fit the UFO fender.
NOTE- The light socket on the UFO fender is plastic garbage and I had to swap it out for a metal one-
It’s really poor that UFO makes a descent fender and installs plastic junk to save a few cents and create aggravation and work to make it correct.
I built up my wiring harness using individual wires. Doing it again I would purchase a trailer wiring harness with four wires- Brake, LT, RT & ground. I would run them to the front where the battery is located and connect to the front turn signals using 2 into 1 butt connectors for a much neater/cleaner installation. It’s not a difficult task to accomplish and it’s cool to have a KDX with a a fully functioning electrical system.
Also, if you can, it might be helpful to some if you post up your wiring diagram as this question comes up fairly regularly.