Molly's 70 wrote: ↑05:34 pm Dec 20 2021
Good information. You're an honest guy. Now get that bike running.
Sometimes I can be so dumb. I think I was a bit blinded by the 600 dollar price tag and it not working I kinda lost it for a bit. I think it will be better now.
Once I get the bike together, having a power valve issue, working on lacing up wheels, and I get to ride i will give my a better write up with pics so that ppl can see the tricks and tips that I have figured and how it works for me and my bike atleast. There are a decent amount of ppl using them but not a lot. I actually think it’s really easy to get into the bike which is what I was worried about.
Hey guys,
Has anybody noticed the lectron in the front boot being a bit loose? I am bottomed out all the way with the clamp and it’s not super tight. I feel like i could have some problems with that.
Does anybody know of a clamp for a carb that is a bit smaller. Maybe a 30 mm carb or something.
If you can't find a suitable clamp. Maybe you could make a strip of aluminum can to fit inside the clamp. That might reduce the inside diameter enough.
If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
Thanks
I threw the clamp in a vice and bent the tab so it shortens up and it tighter. I think it will work.
I think the lectron is pretty good as of now. I need to lean it a tad more but was able to ride it last night in the alley. Still not sure if I have my hard starting in the cold fixed. I think if it’s real cold I need to raise the idle to the max.
I’m supposed to actually ride this weekend so I will do a short write up after that.
Following! Amazing how these little projects can be such a mind bending struggle! I’m trying to get my clutch actuator project going today, pulled the cover off and noticed that somehow I don’t have the correct spare clutch cover gasket on hand. No biggie, I need to order some other stuff anyway.
While I am in there figured I’d finally install the governor boot I have been sitting on. It’s covered in spooge. Reading up on that process while watching what’s left of my college football team get embarrassed in their bowl game.
~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~ Let the good times ROLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ‘99 KDX 220 / '03 KDX 200 - @%@'18 Trek Slash 8 @%@ ‘22 Rieju MR300 Racing
This kdx has been so frustrating. About every bike I have bought so far has been pretty easy pretty much just ride it at first. Not this one. Oh well. Do think the lectron is going to work well but man the hard starting has baffled. I think it really like tdc kicks. Also being so lean I’m not sure if lowering the idle would help because that is less air or raise it to get more fuel. Who knows but it has been taking me 50 kicks to start it in 20-30 degrees. I feel like it should not be like that. Maybe something else is wrong with the bike. The compression is 145 ish at 5500 ft elevation so that not too bad.
You're way too lean for some reason. Either a manifold, crank seal, base gasket, etc. leak is probably happening. Have you done a leak down test? You mentioned it didn't fit the manifold well so that's what I would highly suspect. A leak down test will confirm whether your engine is sealed properly or not.
Yeah. I just went out and started it and it has been sitting for 4 plus hours at about 25 deg outside and I primed it and went to tdc each kick and it took me 3 kicks and it idled just fine. Tried to do a leak down test with what I had in the garage but it did not work. I’m going to get some of those drain plug things tomorrow and try to build a better one. I have a air compressor with a regulator I just need a tee valve to hook it up to my comp tester gauge. Do you think I could try to keep the carb in and plug the back of the carb. I would have to plug the fuel line and over flows. I also need to plug the tranny breather line and is that it?
I also opened up the ignition cover. It has a horrible gasket it looks like some gasket maker or something but it’s fully dry so I would guess that crank seal is good enough.
I just replaced the base gasket and head gasket. Also did the reed gasket but could be getting a leak around the o ring for the intake boot.
Don't plug the transmission vent as it has nothing to do with how the engine runs and is separated from the crankcase. Like KDXGarage said, no more than 6psi and a hand pump is the only way to go. With an air compressor it is just too easy to blow out a main seal then you'll have to split the cases!
Hmm, never tried to do a leak down with the carb installed before but for you it very well might be a necessary addition to the process. You would probably have to pull the top of the carb and plug that as well as some air will escape through the throttle cable and it's opening.
Thanks guys. I built a pump last night with a floor pump and some adapters but the gauge stuff is not the best. An air compressor with a low pressure gauge is a better set up. But I will try the pump first. Who knows maybe Home Depot has a small hand pump with low pressure gauge.
KDXGarage wrote: ↑09:21 am Dec 30 2021
bicycle pump??
Yeah it should work the gauge is not the best. I think I’m going to try to build the same contraption that ppl are building for compressors but use a screw in schrader valve where the connection to the compressor is and I’ll hook up the bike pump. Then just have the normal low pressure gauge on the tee set up.
So I ended up doing a leak down test. First test I plugged up both ends and it held 6psi for 6 min which I think is good.
Second I kept the exhaust plugged and tested the lectron. Could not get a good seal out the top of it because it is an American bolt. I jamed a rubber plug in but it only held 2 psi and was bubbling from there. The intake did not bubble around the boot at all with the carb so I feel it’s okay but I would like to find the right bolt for the top and retest.
Then I plugged the intake and put the pipe on. I sealed the end of it and i found 2 small pin holes. Would only hold like 3 psi but no bubbling around the exhaust flange so I feel that’s okay. I’m going to see if I can get the pipe welder to fix the pin holes but I think everything pretty much checks out.
Here is my tester I made. Just used a comp tester hose.
075F702D-2CC0-47E6-95AA-5B6B1EB70C5E.jpeg (2.68 MiB) Viewed 2848 times
Yeah I am pumped on that. I was just dreading splitting the cases to swap crank seals. Then I would prob replace all bearings and send the crank off while I’m In there but I think it’s good.
Sounds like the engine has no leaks if holding 6psi for that long. Double check the rod that Lectron sent you is the correct one and installed at the correct starting length. Something is definitely wrong somewhere.