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After ALOT of elbow grease, all the frame rust has been sanded off to the best of my ability and the frame has been washed. So I guess it's time to paint whenever the weather allows. My only question is I washed it with soapy water, a rag, and the garden hose. Do you guys think I should give it a blast with our pressure washer or is that overkill?

Just did the same job and I would say it looks great. Before I primed it I used Simple Green and a scotch brite pad and finished with some soapy water just to make sure it was super clean. Post some pics when you git r done!

Man! Looks great. Here is your final step. (tack cloth, for example, check out the link below, buy a couple)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Tack-C ... P/16494381

You can't ever go wrong with a pressure washer in my opinion.

Blow the air out of all the holes with an air compressor.

Consider some J. P. Weigel "Frame Saver". It can be found online or maybe at a local bicycle shop.

Thanks guys! Yeah I'm probably gonna give it a blast with the pressure washer just to be safe. Also, when I was washing it I cleaned out all the bolt holes with a soapy wire brush and water just to be safe again.

Hi All! I'm back after a couple years because my brother helped me rebuild my bike and we should be starting it for the first time this Saturday ! I need help because the local racer at my shop told me to run Spectro SX Clutch Saver SAE 10w30 transmission oil instead of the Kawasaki Full Synthetic 4-Stroke 10w40 oil I've been running since I bought it . He said he runs this on all his two strokes and that it will be better for my clutch than the 10w40, (but I'm worried it has friction modifiers even though it doesn't say). Is he correct on this or should I go back to 10w40? Keep in mind this oil will be used during a new top end break in and in the hot, humid, wet, sandy, rocky single track of New England. I'm just worried it might not be thick enough when hot but maybe I'm overthinking? Also feel free to let me know if my Coolant and Brake Fluid choices look good. Lastly, feel free to take a look at my new painted frame and cracked stock piston. I had great compression and never would have known there was a crack. So take my mistake as a warning if you're one of the few who still don't believe the stock 220 non-forged pistons were faulty (they are!). $600 later after Millenium replating and Wiseco piston we're good! Lastly, thank you all for the help and I look forward to sharing final photos/finds once she's all buttoned up (we went with retro purple and green styling!)

Welcome back!

All oils, including ones for wet clutches, have friction modifiers in them. It's just a question of whether the friction modifiers used are right for your application. Spectro is a wet clutch rated oil so you would be fine running it or the Kawasaki stuff you ran before. Being a "clutch saver" type it probably has modifiers to help with the bite of the clutch (ie; locking them together better/less slippage). Don't worry about it being too thin as, remember, a lot of us use ATF in our gearboxes and it is way thinner than 10w30. Plus, I rode my bike in the AZ heat with that thin ATF without issues for well over 1000 hours! Anyway, he probably is just wanting you to buy his stuff but pretty much anything rated for wet clutches is fine for our bikes. Just use the stuff that gives you the best clutch feel and run it.

DOT 4 break fluid of any kind is good to go. DOT 5.1 (Not DOT 5!!!) is even better if you're a rear brake dragger like me!

Not a fan of Engine Ice myself but plenty of people use it with no problem.

Welcome back. I remember your videos. It is good to see you back around.

That oil will be fine.

Thanks for showing the piston. A member in Thailand made a great video showing his piston. It was about a month ago. Check it out.

Get out there and have fun!