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Not uncommon. Try some penetrating oil and soak it for a few days. That may work but I doubt it.
Next step: If you get a high speed drill and spin the bolt enough eventually you will be able pull out the insert from the tank. You can separate them and JB Weld the insert back into the tank.

P-Tex would probably be better than JB Weld to reset the insert. Some of your local ski buddies can help you get a good result.

As stated, pretty common with these bikes. If you can spin it out you can probably get the insert off the bolt and glue it back in. When you do, add a little anti-seize to those bolts and don't overtighten them.

penetrating oil

also, see if gently pulling on the shroud creates enough tension to help. It might be worth a shot.

I think there have been a few threads on here over the years.

It is a "dirt bike" problem, not a KDX specific issue, so do a search on the web for other tips, too.

Good luck on the rest of the rebuild.

I know a torque wrench is probably gonna get brought up, so any suggestions as to which one (of course I'll do my own research as well). With that being said, I would also want the air gun to work with the existing sockets I have if possible. Needless to say, I'm trying to buy tools that would work on any dirtbike I may get down the road and ones that I ABSOLUTELY need. Regardless, thank you again for all the help so far and I look forward to any and all suggestions you guys may have!

There was just a torque wrench thread on here the other day that will answer a lot of your questions. As for an air gun, its just a matter of getting the proper adapter for your socket drive size. Most air guns are 1/2" drive so you'd need a 1/2" to 3/8" and 1/2" to 1/4" adapters to use every socket you have.Looks like you have the hand tools most commonly used, maybe a vise and a sturdy workbench. After that it's special tools with limited uses (case splitter, bearing pullers, etc) but in most cases with the KDX you can get around them with a little ingenuity. Torque wrench and a manual are the two most important tools.

Welcome back.

Cool joke on the Weight Watchers. HA!

I own every USA KDX service manual (they are somewhere around here). I don't remember ever seeing a picture of an air tool being used. Hand tools should be fine. You're young. You have time. You're not getting paid flat rate.

Do look for the torque wrench thread.

Loc-tite 242 (blue, medium strength threadlocker)

Bel-ray or Maxima waterproof grease for the linkage / swingarm / steering bearings.

When reassembling the chain, put the two open links on the rear sprocket. It will hold it in place while you put on the clip. I have the Tusk master clip pliers. They are halfway helpful in getting the clip back on.

Read that manual you bought. It's the best money you have spent on the bike so far.

Thanks for the tips guys! Y'all are the best!

I only use air tools for disassembly. Hand tools for everything else.

Keep in mind that powered impact tools, air or electric, should be used with impact grade sockets. Ordinary hand tool sockets will deform due to the repeated impact blows from the powered driver.

That said, the hammer drive impact driver has not been mentioned, and is a favorite with motorcycle mechanics. This is the go-to tool for loosening Phillips or JIS head case screws.

If you're not familiar with this tool, you put the socket or screw driver tip on the end, hold the driver in contact with the hex head bolt or nut, or Phillips or JIS head screw, give the driver a twist in the direction you want movement, usually CCW, and whack the end of the driver with a hammer.

The combination of the downward force of the hammer blow and the twisting force of the driver loosens the screw.

pumpguy wrote: ↑07:03 pm Aug 28 2019 Keep in mind that powered impact tools, air or electric, should be used with impact grade sockets. Ordinary hand tool sockets will deform due to the repeated impact blows from the powered driver.

That said, the hammer drive impact driver has not been mentioned, and is a favorite with motorcycle mechanics. This is the go-to tool for loosening Phillips or JIS head case screws.

If you're not familiar with this tool, you put the socket or screw driver tip on the end, hold the driver in contact with the hex head bolt or nut, or Phillips or JIS head screw, give the driver a twist in the direction you want movement, usually CCW, and whack the end of the driver with a hammer.

The combination of the downward force of the hammer blow and the twisting force of the driver loosens the screw.

Could’ve used that a minute ago. Now I’m using a Dremel and a flathead.

So I finally found a place to work on my bike during the winter. Currently, I'm at the point where everything is disassembled as far as I can go with the hand tools I have (it's bare frame). With that being said, I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions for tools for the rear axle nut and steering stem bolt. I can probably just buy a 27 and 30/31 mm 1/2-In Drive socket for my existing socket wrenches (See second video above)? Also, while I'm at it, any suggestions on how to separate the radiator fins from the radiators. I'm about to cut the suckers off because the plastic has heat expanded to be to big to go back through the holes? Beyond that, my first two orders of business are:

1. Clean the frame (Is Simple Green, a Scotch Brite pad, and warm water the best recipe or will the Scotch Brite ruin the paint? Lastly, do you guys get anal and use a small wire brush to clean out the bolt holes?)
2. Touch up the frame paint (I literally only want to clean/touch up the rust/wear spots NOT REPAINT. It's an 04 220 with grey paint. Does anyone know where I can directly buy a (pint or spray can) AT MOST of that color if anywhere?)

Thanks for any and all insight in advance!

The rear axle nut is 27 mm. The fork caps and steering stem nut are 30 mm. A socket or wrench will do.

Can you pinch the insert portion in a little to get the inserts back out?

I would just use a cotton cloth or similar instead of a Scotch-Brite pad. I think that would scratch it a good bit.

I would clean out all the holes as best I could, especially if it was down to the frame.

BRING YOUR WALLET WARNING www.colorrite.com for the exact shade of gray. YES, you will get best results with their primer. YES, you will get best results with their clear coat. AGAIN, WALLET WARNING!

After you get the side metal painted and it cures for many days, put some clear stickers over them to keep the paint from rubbing off.

You are the best KDXGarage! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

HA! You're welcome.

A friend of mine repainted his 2005 Suzuki RM250 frame. It looked terrific with their primer, color and clear.

P.S. when I was talking about the skid plate and said drill I meant grinder wheel.

Welcome back!

If it was my bike and depending on time frame to repair...

Evapo-Rust Gel for the frame rusty spots, followed by hand sanding (150 grit, 220 grit, maybe 320 grit) then prime and paint and clear

penetrating oil for the skid plate bolts, then get a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut a slot into the heads of the bolts. The slots would be so a flat head screwdriver could be inserted into the head. I would not cut the tabs off. The normal bolts are probably cheaper and easier to replace than the unique mounts.

https://mayhew.com/product-category/bea ... e-punches/

If not those, you can locally get a long punch. One can hit a punch with better results than turning a screwdriver into a punch. Keep moving around the circumference of the race with small hits and slowly knock it loose a little bit at a time.

On install of the new races, throw a dab of anti-seize on the frame so it will help the next time someone removes them.

Again, welcome back!

The skid plate has been removed and saved. Races are also out thanks to your guys help and some help from my family. Next post will probably be when the frame has been cleaned and touch up painted. I'm trying not to pat my back too hard for small baby steps but it's also cool to think that I didn't know how a socket worked when I started this thing and now I took my bike down to bare frame. Needless to say, whatever I have done ANYONE can do!

It looks like you are doing quite well. Keep at it.