2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 10:33 pm Jun 05 2019

RTV the heck out of it. :-) Craigslist solution. :-)
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 07:29 pm Jun 09 2019

New parts (cover, seals and bearing) are gonna cost about $230 if the heat and rubber mallet don’t work. Expensive lesson but it’s just $$ right?

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by kdxsully » 08:57 pm Jun 09 2019

ericr wrote:
11:46 pm Jan 24 2019
It's like Christmas. Pro-taper, renthal - nice stuff you're putting on that bike. Before you buy more individual gaskets though, I would suggest that you buy gasket kits. It'll save you $$'s
I second this. I was gonna buy a clutch cover gasket for $17. 29 and some change for the whole engine gasket kit. DUH! Lol.

Very nice rebuild. The bike was nice to begin with, it'll be a monster by the time you finish.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 09:29 pm Jun 09 2019

Thanks KDXSully. It’s close.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by ericr » 12:05 am Jun 10 2019

I was thinking about the bend. Rather than just heat and rubber mallet, I think I'd try to bolt the cover to a stable plate with the bent portion overhanging the edge of the plate. You could then run bolts in the bent portion to gradually apply downward force as you're heating the area. Am I making sense?
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 08:58 pm Jun 11 2019

Yes, that makes sense. I have an old school desk that is flat and pretty sturdy. I will use the old gasket to drill the bolt pattern

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by doakley » 09:24 pm Jun 11 2019

I'd go the route of the epoxy repair. I would have no confidence in my ability to precisely bend the hot aluminum. My clutch cover is repaired with JB Weld and has worked well for 4+ years of racing.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Kdxfan4130 » 09:40 pm Jun 15 2019

Just read your entire thread, excellent info and rebuilding pics.
I’ve done worse things than bending that clutch cover, like forgetting coolant rebuilding a top end lol. Only once tho!
I like the idea of bolting it down an try to counter bend it (bend it past being flat so it will flex back to being flat enough to use gasket & sealant if necessary).
Good luck. And keep up the terrific work your documenting, that bread trick was awesome never would of thought of it unless fixing a faucet!
Restore rather than replace

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 06:02 pm Jun 21 2019

Ok, you got me curious. How do you fix a faucet with bread?

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by rungrandpa » 10:12 pm Jun 21 2019

doakley wrote:
09:24 pm Jun 11 2019
I'd go the route of the epoxy repair. I would have no confidence in my ability to precisely bend the hot aluminum. My clutch cover is repaired with JB Weld and has worked well for 4+ years of racing.
Me too on the JB Weld. I broke my clutch cover, bought a unit off ebay that was warped. I fixed the old clutch cover with JB Weld and it's held up.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by GATOROC » 07:56 am Jun 23 2019

Vossman wrote:
09:14 pm May 05 2019
Been trying to find something to plug the odometer cable hole. Found these at Ace Hardware, they fit well. Snap in pretty easy. I did put a little black RTV to help hold it in. These are made by Hillman, 9/16 was the size.
Image
Thanks for the info on these! I picked up one from Ace the other day and like you said - fits perfectly! I thought I was going to keep the odometer for quite a while, but ended up taking it out.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by lucy » 08:00 am Jun 23 2019

Do you know what those caps are used for? It might help us find them at other vendors.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by GATOROC » 09:16 am Jun 23 2019

If you Google "Hillman 9/16 hole plug" you'll see them from different vendors. The issue I see is that a lot of them sell in bulk. I picked mine up for 59 cents each at Ace Hardware.

ImageHillman 9-16 Hole Plug 1, on Flickr

ImageHillman 9-16 Hole Plug 2 , on Flickr
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by kdxsully » 10:31 am Jun 23 2019

GATOROC wrote:
09:16 am Jun 23 2019
If you Google "Hillman 9/16 hole plug" you'll see them from different vendors. The issue I see is that a lot of them sell in bulk. I picked mine up for 59 cents each at Ace Hardware.

ImageHillman 9-16 Hole Plug 1, on Flickr

ImageHillman 9-16 Hole Plug 2 , on Flickr
Good intel, I think Lowe’s has those. I’ll look later. I think using these speedo gears as a wheel spacer is silly, but whaaaatever. Did you just cut the wire? I’d rather try and unsolder the wires or something so I can put it back on if I need to
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by GATOROC » 11:00 am Jun 23 2019

kdxsully wrote:
10:31 am Jun 23 2019
Good intel, I think Lowe’s has those. I’ll look later. I think using these speedo gears as a wheel spacer is silly, but whaaaatever. Did you just cut the wire? I’d rather try and unsolder the wires or something so I can put it back on if I need to
I'm glad that Vossman provided the part to make this easy. Like he said, pop in the plug and put a little black RTV to help keep it in place and provide a seal.

I'm not quite sure what your saying about "unsoldering the wires". The process is to simply unscrew the screw that holds the odometer cable to the wheel, pull it out, disconnect the odometer cable guide from the fork tube, and disconnect the odometer from the handle bar mount. It takes about 5-10 minutes to do. I bagged all of my parts together so that I can reinstall at a later date if I decide to, which probably won't happen. :wink: I will most likely go with a Voyager or something similar that has a lot more features.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by kdxsully » 11:07 am Jun 23 2019

GATOROC wrote:
11:00 am Jun 23 2019
kdxsully wrote:
10:31 am Jun 23 2019
Good intel, I think Lowe’s has those. I’ll look later. I think using these speedo gears as a wheel spacer is silly, but whaaaatever. Did you just cut the wire? I’d rather try and unsolder the wires or something so I can put it back on if I need to
I'm glad that Vossman provided the part to make this easy. Like he said, pop in the plug and put a little black RTV to help keep it in place and provide a seal.

I'm not quite sure what your saying about "unsoldering the wires". The process is to simply unscrew the screw that holds the odometer cable to the wheel, pull it out, disconnect the odometer cable guide from the fork tube, and disconnect the odometer from the handle bar mount. It takes about 5-10 minutes to do. I bagged all of my parts together so that I can reinstall at a later date if I decide to, which probably won't happen. :wink: I will most likely go with a Voyager or something similar that has a lot more features.
Is there a plug? That wire has to connect to that little computer board in there somehow. It’s been a while since I had mine open. I’m glad it’s as easy as that though.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 11:52 am Jun 23 2019

Completely mechanical setup. The hub has a screw drive that turns the inner cable that goes to the trip meter.
I just cleaned my hub, put more grease in it and plugged it.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 02:11 pm Jun 23 2019

kdxsully, 1989 and newer are mechanical, not like yours.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by kdxsully » 02:44 pm Jun 23 2019

Dang.

I’m inspired. I’ll figure it out.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by kdxsully » 07:34 pm Jun 29 2019

Got around to doing this on my ‘87.

Image

Take it apart, start removing the computer boogers (my magnet fell out of the spinner thing, don’t mind it).
This’ll show you where the wires and stuff are so you won’t break anything. Mine was dirty so I couldn’t see anything at all through the gunk. There’s a plate that sits on top of the wires, you’ll have to unscrew the screw holding it in and take it out first. You can see the hole where the plate was.

Image

Make sure you remove as much boogers as you can, they dissipate the heat you need to melt the solder on the circuit board. Press your iron on the contacts and gently pry up with a flathead at the same time; it’ll take a little bit.

Image

Replace your parts, cap the hole with a 3/8” rubber screw cap. Use a little silicon at the base for added sealing (I didn’t though). Really simple little job for a lot of cosmetic gain.
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