KDXRIDER.NET

Just thought it might be good to pass on that Hyde does offer two skid plates for the H-series KDX. One is a regular skid plate (https://www.hyderacing.com/manage.numo? ... rettyPhoto) and the other has a built in pipe guard (https://www.hyderacing.com/manage.numo? ... log&cid=94) for the Gnarly pipe.

I'm a big fan of the newer plastic type skid plates. Less noise, slide over things better, and allow the chassis to flex like Kawasaki designed the frame to do. Anyone running one on their KDX?

I have no experience but I dig those! I may just spring for one since I need a new one anyway.

I'm glad to see they're making them again. I got one last year and the guy at Hyde told me it was the last one they didn't plan to make more. I'm happy with it now and taking it on and off is very easy. But....it was a complete pain in the butt to get correct. It only has a hole where the exhaust flange goes through and I didn't want to take the pipe on/off so I scribed and cut (repeat about 3 more times) and got it good. When I bolted it up the oil drain hole was about an inch or more off. The way it's made you know when it's in place against the frame and kdx hoops on the frame so it was weird. I busted out the dremel and made the oil drain hole oblong until it was right. I love the way it looks and feel that it gives good protection but it's not a straight bolt on. I had seen other guys talk about the initial fitting hassle so I knew I had a little work to do and still wanted it anyway.

There a few pics on this post where you can see it.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 86&t=22433

I also got a Hyde skid plate (without pipe guard) for my new to me 1995 KDX200. I just can't stand the noise reflected back by the metal ones. Initial fitting was a bit of a pain but once on, it fits like a glove.

Also the hole for the drain plug does not come close to lining up. This makes removal a must every oil change. Irritating!!!

I have the Devol skidplate, easy install and have not had any issues with the engine noise rebounding as people have mentioned. Also get a sump guard with it.

Just finished mounting a Hyde skid plate. Agree that it was a total pain in the butt to put. It sort of fits then the creativity,dremeling,using longer screws than provided (til you can suck up the hard plastic against the frame) ,then put the shorter screws in so as not to come in contact with the cases. Looks great when finished and really provides alot of coverage . I put a plastic skid plate on an 03 ktm 450 exc yrs ago and it bolted right on. Big diff between ktm hardparts and hyde. Happy new year! Glenn

I’m a huge fan of my Hyde plate but it is a PIA and unfortunately the drain plug doesn’t quite line up so every time I change the oil I just sort of let it hang on the exhaust bracket and do it up afterwards. It gets easier to reinstall as it shapes better to the bike. I’ve hit a lot of crap with that plate and it’s doing great.

You guys should just cut/drill the plate for drain plug access. You can also use a heat gun to help it mold to the bike. Just install the plate, making note of where it needs to be modified, and then add heat. Don't go crazy with it as you don't want to get it too soft. Just enough to let it form to the frame and then let it cool while bolted on the bike. These mods should make it easier to install and no removing it for oil changes.

We had to do these same mods, and a few others, on the TM Designworks skid plate for my buddy's YZ250X. It works great now.

I just picked up my Hyde skid plate the other day and can see where it will be a bit challenging to get it to fit properly. I'm not sure how you guys even got it mounted up with the short screws they provided? Looks like I will be heading to the hardware store to get some longer screws. Like mentioned above, the oil drain hole doesn't line up at all, so I will be taking a dremel to it. I might also do some heat gun work as SS109 did.

GATOROC where did you find the skid plate? I have been trying to get on Hyde's website and it just keeps redirecting me to a non-existent page.

Rider47 wrote: ↑11:56 am Apr 25 2019 GATOROC where did you find the skid plate? I have been trying to get on Hyde's website and it just keeps redirecting me to a non-existent page.

I purchased it locally through Billet Racing Products (BRP) here in Colorado Springs. I originally spoke with Mike and he told me that he had to order it direct from Hyde, and it took a few days to come in. When I picked it up I spoke with Jim Rios (great guy). You can reach them at 719-633-8133. Mention that I (Todd) recently ordered one - he should remember. You can order it directly through this link, but it might be better to just call them since they probably have to order through Hyde anyway. https://www.shopbrp.com/kawasaki/produc ... 0-kdx.html

Thanks GATOROC, I will give them a call.

Does anybody have a picture of how they cut the drain bolt hole bigger to work? The mounting bracket is almost touching my drain plug. I’m not sure if cutting would work.

lcgordon711 wrote: ↑03:01 pm Dec 06 2021 Does anybody have a picture of how they cut the drain bolt hole bigger to work? The mounting bracket is almost touching my drain plug. I’m not sure if cutting would work.

Like I mentioned above, I just used a dremel to open up the hole a little more. Easy mod and it works fine for oil changes.

Thanks for the pic. I don’t think mine would work. The mounting bracket seems to be in the way of the actual drain bolt.

Here is a pic of mine and I added a linkage guard. It is the acerbis universal one. It seems to mount up well.

I bought a Hyde skid plate a while back. Unfortunately I hadn't read of the difficult fitment and issues installing, and decided to install it right before leaving camp for our first day of riding at our trailhead campsite at Redbird Crest trails in Daniel Boone National Forest Kentucky, a place with dozens upon dozens of rcky & boulder filled / bedrock washout hill climbs on tbe official 2-track trails and singletracks alike...
Well I had the front wheel lifted up on the bench of a picnic table & bike leaning against, for over an hour... Side cover, spark arrestor, and both exhaust mounts removed, & the front was still a real pain to hook in through the lower front exhaust hanger,& I suspected it needed some trimming, but then it just snapped into place with some pushing.
Then I figured out why they give you a long threaded stud + nut, which I was scratching my head on for 15 minutes prior to beginning install... It's to draw the skidplate in closer so that the shorter bolts will reach, one at a time. I suppose this is where using a heat gun really helps let the plate settle in to a better position, but you do want some deviation in the fit so that the plate itself is somewhat spring loaded to draw into the frame to be a tight fit, otherwise it'd rattle when bolts were fully torqued


Then.... I thought I'd conquered this thing without having to remove the pipe! Until I found the rear mount and mounting hole absolutely did not fit!!!
The rear mounting hardware piece that spans across the tops of the lower frame rails sat way too high because of some welded in gussetting on the inside sides of the rear frame tubing area near the oil drain, the welds and extra cross brace gussetting proteudes above the tubes, and a much longer bolt than provided would be needed...
I got it on after scratching my head 15+ minutes, by turning the mounting clamp hook piece 90 degrees and only utilizing one tube clamp portion of it on the lateral crossmember at the rear.



Fast forward one week... late Friday night bike prepping for the weekend riding at Long Ridge / Wayne National Forest, and I realize the oil drain plug is Completely INACCESSIBLE from the Hyde skid plate oil drain hole...
Then... I realized Hyde had measured correctly for the hole locations, but had reversed the locations of the two rear holes - as the rear mounting hardware molded/countersunk bolt hole is DIRECTLY under the oil drain plug on the 95-06 engine case, and where the Hyde oil drain hole, the frame tubes are bare, without the welded on gussetting directly to the rear that prevented proper install of the mounting hardware.

So clearly this is an issue of the holes just being manufactured in the wrong positions.

I plan to fix it by using a heat gun and a bicycle 1-1/8" threadless headset's top fork/stem cap aluminum piece & bolt to make use of the incorrect large diameter oil drain hole and push it up to be slightly concave / recessed with the heat gun the way the rear hole is (so thebolt is countersunk appropriately as to not hang up), using the bicycle headset cap piece to clamp in the oversized hole after heating it up and recessing it.
Then drill out the incorrect recessed rear mount hole to be able to fit a socket in to access the oil drain plug.
Also, Hyde lists their skid plates as only fitting the 2000-2006 KDX200, so I thought perhaps the drain bolt hole location changed from 1995-1999 vs 2000-2006, but parts fiches only list one set of crankcase part numbers the entire KDX200H model run 1995-2006 & corresponding 1997-2005 KDX220R. Surprisingly you can still buy new crankcases from Kawasaki, too! Only $542 iirc!?

I will say, as I have it mounted now, aside from mounting challenges and oil plug access, this thing is TOUGH and slides EXTREMELY WELL on large boulders and bedrock shelf steps! I've tested it out substantially the past 2 weekends on gnarly big rock sections, yesterday choosing the hardest lines which led to a lot of stalling and getting hung up,and unfortunately a little rash on my prue shrouds' graphics! I need to build up my 99 220R soon (my 1st KDX) to spare the purple plastics 97 from the extreme abuse of this sort...

Also, I've emailed Hyde about this discovery on the rear holes mixup manufacturing/design flaw, hopefully they reply & can fix this on the next batch. This is the best skid plate on the market in my opinion. Aluminum dents and doesn't slide well. This thing works very well being teflon based, and I've only read of one person ever breaking theirs as most skeptics worry about.

Thanks for the report!