KDXRIDER.NET

I was fortunate enough to procure a 1993 KDX 250 for $150 recently. Unfortunately it had a locked up lower connecting rod bearing. And the Tusk tools to split the cases cost more than motorcycle itself. But I see this build as a learning experience and a chance to acquire tools that I will use for a long time. I am currently a full time Mechanical Engineering student so the progress on this build will be slow as it will happen as time permits. I did want to start a thread and show pictures because everyone loves them. So here it is.









Items currently for sale include the "Ronnie Mac" special edition front fender and the BAD seat cover. Both are rare so no low ball offers...

In seriousness, I plan to sell the front forks and install a pair off of a 1997 KX125 I have coming. I already have a KX250 wheel and axle from 1998. I think I am going to buy original front and rear fenders for it. Not many of these 250s around anymore.

Motor is out and ready to be split open for crankshaft removal. Anyone have any suggestions for a shop to repair the crankshaft? I was thinking about Ken O Connor Racing because RB Designs isn't taking heavy work yet.

Let me know what you think of the bike.

I'd keep the original forks, those USDs work great in the woods. That'll save you money you'll need for the motor work. (i.e.: buy the tools and split the case yourself).

Purchased the Tusk case splitting tools and started dis assembly of the motor tonight. Got the flywheel off no problem but one of the stator mounting screws is starting to strip. See below. Any ideas on how to get it out?



KDX's current state. Thinking about complete strip to frame and re-paint but not there yet.

snopro753 wrote:Purchased the Tusk case splitting tools and started dis assembly of the motor tonight. Got the flywheel off no problem but one of the stator mounting screws is starting to strip. See below. Any ideas on how to get it out?



KDX's current state. Thinking about complete strip to frame and re-paint but not there yet.

no special tools are needed, besides the flywheel puller.

you're a ME student right? OK, these are tools you should own, understand, and be proficient with:

slide hammer
impact driver
drift
micrometer
tire irons
2x4
torch
penetrant (this is a tool)
hack saw blade

for your current situation with the stripped screw use the impact driver. after you use the hack saw blade to cut a slit in it.

it will come out easily.



for the case splitting, get some parallels and any puller from the hardware store... you'll figure out the rest in a few minutes.

for reassembly, think about temperature differences, then YouTube "hot slug" and be amazed at how easy it is.

that front fender is going to fetch so much money you might want to change majors ;-)

Thanks for the post.

A hand impact driver will work on that screw, as stated above.

I've got an impact driver back at the farm. Homework takes precedence today. I will update as progress progresses.

I ended up cutting the offending screw out with my dremel. The head was just too soft for a impact driver, destroyed it.

Good news is I got the cases split and the crank out yesterday.



Bad connecting rod bearing:



Crusty looking crank bearing:



Other side crank bearing seal:



Other parts of case look undamaged:



I am going to have the crank rebuilt locally by a independent shop. I think I need to replace the crank bearings and seals. I am going to soda blast the case and clean them up too. 2 weeks until the spring semester is over and I can really get cranking on this bike rebuild.

Add to your tool list JIS screwdrivers if you don't already have them.

I picked up this set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-ATV- ... 1663897068

IDRIDR wrote:Add to your tool list JIS screwdrivers if you don't already have them.

I picked up this set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-ATV- ... 1663897068

I had this same problem with a Nikon camera body. I should have made the connection to JIS head screws. Thanks for the tip.

IDRIDR wrote:Add to your tool list JIS screwdrivers if you don't already have them.

I picked up this set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-ATV- ... 1663897068

I have those, and I love them, especially the 980 series!

I haven't had the opportunity to use the 980 yet. All these years of messing around with standard Phillips drivers mucking up the JIS screw heads and I FINALLY learned to get the proper tools several months ago. It was something I learned on another forum. What a difference!!!

I recently used my 980 series #3 for the stator screws on a 1993 KX125, so they had been there for 22+ years. They came out with no problem after a few whacks with a 4 pound hammer. Same thing for the screw on the right side of the cylinder under the KIPS cover.

Look for the dimple on the screw head!

Jason wrote:I recently used my 980 series #3 for the stator screws on a 1993 KX125, so they had been there for 22+ years. They came out with no problem after a few whacks with a 4 pound hammer. Same thing for the screw on the right side of the cylinder under the KIPS cover.

Look for the dimple on the screw head!

So mine must have been the original screws as well. I'm definitely going to replace the crank bearings then, they must be original as well.

Crankshaft was dropped off for repair this afternoon.

Jason, I have a set of 1998 KX 250 forks and front wheel I picked up off Craigslist cheap. I needed triple clamps for it so I picked up a set of 1998 KX125 triples from ebay. Below is the picture of me pressing the triples onto the forks by hand. I've gotten them on this far and they get tight. Can I pound them down farther with a rubber mallet? I wanted to test fit them before pressing the stem out and pressing the KDX stem into these triples.



My collection of forks, wheels, and tires is growing...

I would measure the tubes and clamps.

If it looks right, then I believe I read a factory note on using water as a lubricant.

I would (AFTER measuring), open the lower clamp a touch with a very large screwdriver. Throw a sheet or 2 of paper in there to prevent gouging.

I really wish my fork collection never started.

On the forks, I can tell they are 1990 - 1998, due to the fork axle clamps, if that helps any. Inner tube diameter should be 46mm on 1996 - 2001 KX125 / KX250, 1997 - 2004 KX500.

I finally found a pair of OEM KDX 250 side panels on EBay. USPS man delivered them today.



Not much else has happened with the rebuild. I put my KDX 250/front end on my DR350 project recently. I will eventually put the KX250 front end on the KDX.



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Wow. That is different.

Good news! I don't have to bond the title on this bike, the last registered owner released all rights to it. Now I can register it and get a title which is critical for riding in Iowa's public areas.

The motor is finished and ready to go back in the frame. I plan to start working on this project again and get it finished. Any suggestions for green paint on the frame?

Cool. Good luck with it.

I'm going to sell this bike and parts as a project bike. Anyone interested? Clean Iowa title. I bought a KTM and spend all my free time racing Hare Scrambles and Enduros.

Sent you a PM