I've been in the process of documenting a complete "re-animation" of a severely abused '92 KDX250. As certain tasks take focus, I'll be identifying tips, tricks and issues that may be of use outside of my project thread. These will get additional, separate threads for easier searching. This is the first...
In the process of disassembling the project bike, I found that the left-side rear shroud bolt in the fuel tank had been cross-threaded and forced into place by about three complete bolt turns. At that point, the tank insert must have broken loose inside the tank from the force applied. Of course, when I went to remove the shroud, the jammed bolt just spun.
Since parts for the KDX250 are more scarce, I needed to figure out a fix that would let me keep both the tank and the shroud. While the 200/220 has a more common parts pool, this info may be of use to the budget-minded who aren't into buying a new fuel tank when this happens.
The removal solution applied was suggested by "6 rider" on my project thread (thank you). Basically, the idea is to spin the insert to generate just enough heat to soften (borderline melt) the tank and pull out the original insert for fixing/re-threading/replacing. I took the proper socket driver for the shroud bolt into a single-speed (not variable) hand drill and let it fly, while applying a slight outward pressure with a large pry tool under the shroud and a rocking motion at the drill.
It worked. The insert was out in under ten seconds. I immediately used my thumb to push back the "mushroomed" plastic flat to the tank surface again, leaving a pocket in the tank a bit larger than the original insert. The insert itself looks like this...



I was expecting more of a barrel, but the "cube" makes more sense from a force resistance perspective...a barrel may not "grip" as well and would strip out under less torque.
Anyway, I originally thought that I'd re-use the original insert, but getting that cube back into the tank (especially after "resetting" the hole) would be a chore. I'm instead going to look for an extra-deep well nut, or tape off the bottom of an extra-deep nut matching a stock shroud bolt, then re-install it by surrounding it in the cavity with epoxy.
More pics to come as the repair itself is completed. Any recommendations on hardware sourcing for the extra-deep nut or double-depth well nut would be appreciated.