KDXRIDER.NET

I found the posts on both of the sites you recommended. But neither say much about the rekluse except that it's for a yz125. However it doesn't appear they make a rekluse for a 99-04 yz125

Rekluse part # RMS-6075D shows Yamaha YZ125[93-16] EXP 3.0 clutch. This is on the box. I bought this in Dec of 2016. Maybe they quit offering this part #. Wouldn't be the first time. You might try a distributor if you haven't already. Wish I could help you more. Good luck!!!

Crap... looks like they have discontinued that one!
Hopefully I can find one on a shelf somewhere.
Just picked up a bike.

According to my call with rekluse, the EXP disk in the yz125 kit is the same as the 250f. The part number for the disk itself is 770-314. If you call rekluse and reference that part number, you can order just the disk. I think they said $325. Hope that helps

I'm finally getting around to finishing up this project and have also discovered all the EXP disk part numbers are discontinued. After extensive research I have found that you can go to the online parts fiche on their website and piece together the needed parts as they are still sold since they are "wearable items." Looks like it's time to put together an order.

Quick question for those who have already completed this. I know you need to check the clearance between the water pump gear and the gear on the back of the clutch basket. Can this be done by just removing the clutch cover or must you go through the process of removing the right side engine cover? I'm thinking you MAY be able to check by sight and/or feel without having to remove everything else to get the right side engine cover off. Has anyone done this?

No need to remove engine side cover, just clutch cover. You may be able to see what you need to without removing the clutch basket, but doubtful. I had to remove mine several times and check it for clearance before I got it good enough to ride without having to worry about it. You should be able to hear it rubbing while running, but I couldn't. Believe me, it is worth the trouble. Good luck!!!

I bought a used EFM with LHRB set up on this site for $475 for both. I didn't bother with the foot brake master mod, just removed it entirely. I love it, especially in tight woods. Much more rear brake control on downhills also.

I recently performed this mod on my 95 H Model. Since the Rekluse EXP plate is no longer sold, I was able to purchase the individual components from them. The only difficulty was machining and obtaining enough clearance for the primary gear that drives the water pump. After that some tuning of the clutch engagement was required but now works great.

bradf wrote: ↑01:07 pm Jan 01 2018 Added a shim to the pressure plate push rod to make up for the difference in hub depth. Top friction plate is app .025” below top of basket which means push rod is further away from actuator rod.

Got everything installed and buttoned up but I have the exact opposite issue. My top friction plate is just barely "captured" by the clutch basket fingers with most of the friction plate tab above the basket fingers. I know the plates and frictions will expand "down" into the basket but is this an issue as is? Can it be run this way? If not, what is a solution?

Wish I could upload a pic but it seems as though photo bucket pics no longer work.

As you are a supporting member:

Click on "Full editor"" instead of submit.

Below "Save draft" "Preview" "Submit" will be: "Options" "Attachments". Click on Attachments. Then click on Add files. A box will pop up to allow you to choose which photo to upload. Click on the picture, then "Open". After the file is uploaded, click on "Place inline". A similar text will appear within the body of your message showing a picture if you click on preview:

[attachment]123456789.jpg[/attachment]

This is how it looked...

I am wondering if this is my issue. The pressure plate does not meet the hub when they are dropped into the basket with just the necessary washer between the basket and pressure plate (no friction disks or steel plates). It's almost as if the pressure plate is too tall and the top edge is too far away from the basket allowing the last friction to rest too high.

The OE pressure plate just "meshes" with the OE hub as they are sitting in the OE basket with also just the necessary washer.

I know the KDX clutch disengages or releases inward toward the center of the cases. How much room or clearance is needed for the inward movement? Do you want the hub and plate to completely separate with a gap between or just almost separate? Does anyone know off hand?

Just an update...I had a shop machine 0.070" off the back of the inner hub and everything works perfectly now. I've got the Rekluse installed, adjusted and now it's just time to find a time to go ride with the boys. Can't wait!

Happy you got it sorted. They are great in some situations.

When I bought my GasGas it came with a Rekluse setup. I'm still not sold on it. It's nice when riding slow technical terrain but I think it hurts my speed when racing. Thinking I might try installing the heavy wedges before making up my mind on it.

Congratulations on getting it sorted.

I was curious about this project particularly due to the steel sleeve inserts Rekluse uses in their clutch baskets in order to keep the clutch friction plates from notching out the aluminum baskets, although I did pick up a Wiseco forged basket for when the time comes that mine gets too notched.

Here's the Internet Archive Waynack Machine's saved data from May of 2015. Unfortunately the video isn't archived, but here's a but of info and pictures to go off of:

https://web.archive.org/web/20150502182 ... kluse-exp/

I think this December 2014 version has more detailed steps, but less photos archived:
https://web.archive.org/web/20141207204 ... kluse-exp/