Case splitting.

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SS109
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Case splitting.

Post by SS109 » 03:30 pm Jan 05 2013

Well, the case splitter is an absolute necessity unless you want to trash the case halves. However, you don't have to buy the crank puller/installer. Plenty of people have put bottom ends together without one. I did mine without one.

What I did was the freeze the crank (for at least four hours) and drop it into the oven heated (200 degrees F- 20 minutes) right case half method. Smooth as butter! I let it all sit to come to room temp before going any further. Then I laid on a bead of Yamabond and then dropped on the oven heated left case half. Unfortunately, I couldn't work fast enough to get it all together before the bearings and case half gripped onto one another but did get it about half way on. I made my own poor mans crank puller (some extra trans gears and washers) and used the flywheel nut to cinch down the case halves. You could do the same thing with a small piece of pipe cut to the right length and some thick flat washers. If you have a Dremel you can make the pipe fit the case even better. Look at the post above with the crank tool in it and you can figure out how it works.
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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 12:30 pm Jan 06 2013

I was despairing of even getting the 86 any farther yesterday so why send the $$ on tools to fix the dead engine if there's no carb?With at least the possibility I can get her up and going I 'm feeling better about it.Going to see if I can borrow a splitter from someone on my local bike forum to.

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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 08:00 pm Jan 12 2013

ImageI bought this harmonic remover to get the flywheel off,If I can line it up with 3 or 4 case bolts would it work as a case splitter?
Edit:Never mind,I will not line up :sad:

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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 11:48 am Jan 20 2013

Found something interesting in the Clymer manual http://books.google.ca/books?id=x_qLnBH ... CDgQ6AEwAQ It seems the Kawasaki factory splitter is a 2 screw affair that attaches to the coil mounts.I tend to think this would not be ideal.Comments?

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 04:58 pm Jan 20 2013

The design of that case in the picture is different from the newer liquid cooled engines. That book is for 83-88 air cooled engines.

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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 05:22 am Jan 21 2013

Yes it is because that is the engine I'm dealing with.I could probaly just use the harmonic puller I have here to split the case on my 86 I think spreading the load is a better idea.Or am I just being paranoid and using the 2 coil mounts will be just fine?
Edit:Since this is a question better asked in the air cooled section I've asked it there http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=119&t=13390 to stop my inadvertent thread jack.

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 06:26 pm Jan 21 2013

It looks like for the case in the picture a two bolt puller should work just fine. The bolt holes look to be bigger then the stator plate mounting holes on the newer bikes.

And as long as you specify that it is an air cooled engine and it has to do with splitting cases then I wouldn't say your hijacking the thread. Just adding a note to the differences. :wink:

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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 07:34 pm Jan 26 2013

Image
Decided I'd take the opportunity to try splitting the cases on my air cooled with the 2 coil mount bolts with this set up.
Image
It worked just great,hit the bearing with penetrating oil and heat as well.Might just need new mains :shock: :mrgreen: :rolleyes: :blink:

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Case splitting.

Post by argclh6670 » 08:24 pm Jan 28 2013

Nice write up. i didnt use a crank installer tool such as yours, i did the heat n freeze deal.
some like to use a torch...thats too risky i feel...heat gun is safer and quicker. As far as freezing, i used dry-ice, 15 mins was good. I gotta get that tusk too. nice tool.

To the OP, where did get that puller at? that thing is girthy!

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 08:30 pm Jan 28 2013

The crank puller is a Tusk from RMATV. The puller I used for splitting the cases is a Snap On wheel hub puller. The wheel hub puller will run you probably close to what you could buy another KDX for. :shock: But it is what I had and it worked well. It is by far overkill and way more then you should ever need to split the cases. You probably wouldn't even need to take the case bolts out. :lol:

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Case splitting.

Post by dgraver1 » 03:47 pm Feb 18 2013

I know this thread is super old, but when I pushed my cases closed there was alot of binding and then the crank/piston was hard to spin.

I split the cases back open and there was obviously pressure on something. I say obviously because after taking the case bolts out, it had enough pressure to split the cases apart without any mallet tapping or anything... From what I read in this thread, I am thinking it was pressure on the shift forks? how can I tell if those forks are bent at all?

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 04:53 pm Feb 18 2013

With the shift drum in and the pins and forks installed there should be play in the groves that the shift forks sit into. Can you see any sign of what might have been binding? seems like you would have wrecked the shift forks if they were binding that bad. How were you putting the cases back together? Heat and freeze? Crank puller? Smash it with a hammer?

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Case splitting.

Post by dgraver1 » 05:24 pm Feb 18 2013

I have the online cyclepedia manual and it basically shows and says put the halves together and tap around the outsides with a mallet.. then I went back through and snugged it up with the case bolts.

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 07:32 pm Feb 18 2013

Might be part of the problem there.

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Case splitting.

Post by dgraver1 » 07:35 pm Feb 18 2013

Ha.. Yeah I will borrow the crank puller when I put it back together.. Hopefully I didn't damage anything. Will grab some pics when I dig into it. Thanks

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 07:38 pm Feb 18 2013

Your going to want to check that the crank is still true after the tension that has been put on it.

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Case splitting.

Post by dgraver1 » 11:36 pm Feb 18 2013

I really doubt I have the tools/knowledge to be able to do that... How would tension be put on the crank? Just from pushing the case onto it ? I would think the case would go before the crank

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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 11:46 pm Feb 18 2013

the crank is made of 2 halves, it could be very easily put out of alignment. look into the manual there's a figure that explains it well. (or do a search on google)

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Case splitting.

Post by dgraver1 » 09:37 pm Feb 19 2013

So basically when you refer to alignment, that is making sure it is properly seated in the left/right side cases and not pulled too far in one or the other

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 09:46 pm Feb 19 2013

The crank allingment has nothing to do with the cases, yet. You are looking to see that the two halfs are still parallel to each other and the smooth portions, where the bearings go, are straight. If you check youtube you can probably find a video on crank truing. Then when you know the crank it self is true then you can get the cases back together and make sure it is centered in the case halfs.

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