Case splitting.

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scheckaet
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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 07:15 pm Oct 28 2012

just my luck... my puller did not come with the adapter of any kind. :evil:
in other words I'm screwed...

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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 07:18 pm Oct 28 2012

Rebates would you post a pic of those adapter?

Thx

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 07:19 pm Oct 28 2012

That sucks! Did you get it new?

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Re: Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 07:21 pm Oct 28 2012

yup, brand new.
I can't recall seeing it anywhere in the box...

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 07:27 pm Oct 28 2012

I'm trying to get the little guy down for the night right now but I will in a little bit.

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 08:14 pm Oct 28 2012

Image

This is what should have come in the box.

The tube, nut for the puller shaft, two different "nut" adapters, two bolts for cranks with female threads, the adapter nut holding nut, the puller rod, and two steel bars for cases that aren't flat around the crank seal area.

It also came with a generic instruction sheet and a sticker.

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scheckaet
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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 09:18 pm Oct 28 2012

thanks for the pics, it jogged my memory.
I actually got those tools too... :oops:
Found it, t'was still in the box... :roll:

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 09:25 pm Oct 28 2012

:doh:

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scheckaet
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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 09:31 pm Oct 28 2012

x2 :doh:

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Case splitting.

Post by canyncarvr » 09:57 pm Oct 29 2012

I see the 'installer' only on the RH side.....

The Tusk installer does NOT come with an 'adapter' to pull the crank into the RH side.

...you recall that being said already...right?

Time was Rocky Mt. said their installer didn't work for the KDX/KX. Don't know if they still say that or not.

It's all be discussed.

That's known....right?

I got a new nut for the RH side, had it turned down to fit inside the adapter collar. Worked fine, then for both the left AND right sides.

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Case splitting.

Post by Slick_Nick » 09:51 am Oct 30 2012

I always just sweat the crank into the flywheel side, then assemble the trans and use the puller from there to install the clutch side.
'00 KDX 220R

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Case splitting.

Post by canyncarvr » 10:40 am Oct 30 2012

Slick_Nick wrote:I always just sweat the crank into the flywheel side, then assemble the trans and use the puller from there to install the clutch side.
:hmm: ??

Said:
The Tusk installer does NOT come with an 'adapter' to pull the crank into the RH side.

...you recall that being said already...right?
The flywheel side being the LH side...and the clutch side being the RH side...it's the RIGHT HAND SIDE that does not fit into the Tusk install tool with the supplied adapters.


I missed something? :please:

Or...why bother with the details...unless you have WAY too much time on your hands??

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 04:31 pm Oct 30 2012

canyncarvr wrote:
Or...why bother with the details...unless you have WAY too much time on your hands??
:mrgreen:

Slick has a 220 A model. They are completely different in every way from a 200 H model, I heard this from a reliable source. :roll:

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Case splitting.

Post by canyncarvr » 09:06 pm Oct 30 2012

A. Your 'reliable' source is full of poo.

2. Don't believe 1/2 of what you read.....

:grin:

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Case splitting.

Post by scheckaet » 11:49 am Nov 01 2012

rbates9 wrote: Use a good case sealer

Image
you are very generous with the case sealant, aren't you afraid of some squeezing inside the crank case?
That stuff could go up in the cylinder and destroy it. Am I missing something?
thanks for all your help.

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Case splitting.

Post by rbates9 » 04:36 pm Nov 01 2012

The bead looks fat but when I put it on it was thin and while I made sure I got all of the seams and then got the camera going it layed down, thinning out as it spread. Also I would rather have a little too much then not enough.

If you have some case sealer left over then put a bead of it on a piece of metal and let it sit for the night. When you check it again in the morning it will probably still be gooey. That gives a little peace of mind that if some of it gets up into the cylinder it will be soft enough to not hurt anything. And when I split the case the first time there was some case sealer in the bottom end still stuck to the case where it ran down after assembly at the factory. Some on the out side of the case as well.

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Re: Case splitting.

Post by canyncarvr » 12:37 am Nov 15 2012

I thought I'd read this part IN this post before..don't see it..but this might be a repeat:

When installing the transmission parts, make sure to secure the output shaft through the RH case. If it is not clipped in place, it WILL move when you squeeze the case halves together. You will end up with some bent forks.

Also, after the cases are together, DO make sure the transmission shifts as it should. AFTER the engine is completely assembled is NOT the time to find out there's a bind somewhere.

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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 09:17 pm Jan 04 2013

Very good write up.Asume most of this will apply to my old 86 air cooled to. thoughts on this http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tusk-Crank-Pulle ... 9b&vxp=mtr anyone?Know you like the puller rbates so I'm good thee but how is the splitter?

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Case splitting.

Post by SS109 » 11:28 pm Jan 04 2013

I have the Tusk splitter. It works perfectly!
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Case splitting.

Post by GKBO » 09:46 am Jan 05 2013

Thanks SS109.Kind of kills me to pay $130 for 2 tools that will probaly be used once.

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