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Case splitting.

Posted: 09:04 pm Jul 05 2012
by SS109
I can tell you I wish I would have used the crank installer tool. I tried the heat/cold on the right side and it worked perfectly. Unfortunately it wasn't the same for the left side. I know it isn't a "must have" tool but if I ever split cases again I will be using one!

Re: Case splitting.

Posted: 01:43 am Jul 22 2012
by kyledsmith87
Now someone do a poor mans version ;)

Case splitting.

Posted: 08:57 am Jul 22 2012
by scheckaet
Image

Re: Case splitting.

Posted: 02:53 pm Jul 22 2012
by CoronasAndChips
That's the multitool that comes with all Harley Davidson Products since about 1975.

Re: Case splitting.

Posted: 06:59 pm Jul 22 2012
by rbates9
kyledsmith87 wrote:Now someone do a poor mans version ;)

What part or parts of it need to be economized?

Case splitting.

Posted: 08:10 pm Jul 22 2012
by scheckaet
am guessing the 3 tools I mentioned a few post before...flywheel remover, the case spliter and the crank removal
good luck with that... :roll:

Case splitting.

Posted: 02:58 pm Sep 06 2012
by gregp
This is a great write up. I have split lots of 2 stroke cases, but I have never used a crank puller, or a case splitter. I always managed to get the job done with a soft mallet, and some patience. There have been occasions where I wish that I did have the right tools, though.
On some motors, it is very easy to miss the removal of a case screw, and you will not get very far if you do that.
I hope to fully tear down my '04 200 this winter.... but, I said that last year.

Case splitting.

Posted: 12:18 am Sep 07 2012
by scheckaet
is there a trick to remove the bearings from the crank? both of them are stuck on it :? Can't seem to find a proper bearing puller :roll: .
thx

Case splitting.

Posted: 11:41 am Sep 07 2012
by Julien D
scheckaet wrote:is there a trick to remove the bearings from the crank? both of them are stuck on it :? Can't seem to find a proper bearing puller :roll: .
thx
Throw that whole thing in the oven and get it good and hot. The bearings seem to expand faster than the crank spindles and should come right off after some heating.

Case splitting.

Posted: 11:58 am Sep 07 2012
by scheckaet
damned! i did the opposite, threw it in the freezer :roll:
was gonna heat the bearing with a propane torch and see if i could get them out.
i might try it anyway since it's already frozen cold.
thx :supz:

Re: Case splitting.

Posted: 12:04 pm Sep 07 2012
by Julien D
If it's cold, heat the inner bearing races with a torch, and they should pop right off.

Case splitting.

Posted: 12:11 pm Sep 07 2012
by canyncarvr
Juliend wrote:Throw that whole thing in the oven and get it good and hot. The bearings.....should come right off after some heating.
Yep! Just grab a'holt of 'em with your finners after you take it out of the oven (using only your hands, of course) and PULL 'em off!! :shock:

:pop:

My method of getting the bearing(s) off the crank was very simple....for me.

I sent the whole mess to Mr. Black.

:grin:

Case splitting.

Posted: 09:20 am Sep 08 2012
by Julien D
canyncarvr wrote:
Juliend wrote:Throw that whole thing in the oven and get it good and hot. The bearings.....should come right off after some heating.
Yep! Just grab a'holt of 'em with your finners after you take it out of the oven (using only your hands, of course) and PULL 'em off!! :shock:

:pop:

My method of getting the bearing(s) off the crank was very simple....for me.

I sent the whole mess to Mr. Black.

:grin:
hahaha! Actually, I took it out of the oven using oven mitts, placed a large flat screwdriver between bearing and crank half, and just gave it a little tap. If you take it out and grab the bearing with your fingers, please get video. :partyman:

Re: Case splitting.

Posted: 12:31 pm Sep 08 2012
by kawagumby
If the heat doesn't work, you can get bearing removal tools (the tapered wedge kind that will bolt together) from harbor freight pretty cheap. With those, usually the bearing will come off simply from tightening up the two halves, if that doesn't work you can then use a puller.

Case splitting.

Posted: 07:09 pm Oct 23 2012
by scheckaet
what oven temp do you all think I should use to heat the cases? (ready to install new bearings)
I don't want to burn or damage the new seals.
thx

Case splitting.

Posted: 07:53 pm Oct 23 2012
by rbates9
Typically about 230F will be plenty to set a bearing but with a seal in there too I would say probably about 200 would work ok. When you get the bike hot enough to boil over while riding it is probably that hot near the seals.

When you heat the case to fit a bearing you are looking for the temperature difference between the case and the bearing so if you freeze the bearing in the freezer (about 0 deg.) then heat the case to 160 you would have about the same difference as a room temperature bearing (70 deg) in a hot case (230 deg). And 160 is well with in normal heat ranges for a seal.

Case splitting.

Posted: 07:58 pm Oct 23 2012
by scheckaet
thanks I'll try 200, my bearings have been in the freezer since i received them last month, that ought to be enough :mrgreen:

Case splitting.

Posted: 05:14 pm Oct 28 2012
by scheckaet
Image

Image

Rbate, would you care to explain how this works???
I got the same puller and for the life of me I can't figure out how this would even work???

On another note, do I have to remove the new gasket (yamabond 4) and put fresh stuff since it's already on and I'll take a few days before I can press the case halves together???

thx

Case splitting.

Posted: 06:58 pm Oct 28 2012
by rbates9
I replied to your PM. Let me know if that helps.

Case splitting.

Posted: 07:14 pm Oct 28 2012
by scheckaet
Rebates wrote:
The crank puller should have come with two "nuts", one will screw onto the crank and the other is the wrong size. (For a different size.) When you get the correct size nut for the crank there is an adapter that goes on the eng of the puller screw. The Nut goes inside the adapter then onto the puller shaft. Screw the shaft with adapter onto the crank then slide the tube part of the puller down on the pulling shaft, start a nut and as you tighten the nut on the puller rod it will pull the crank into the case. While it is pulling just watch the gap and try to keep it going down as square as you can. I can't remember for sure but I think the key way for the flywheel may need to be removed when you are pulling the crank in.

Yes, you will have to clean the sealant back off and put new on.