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Posted: 08:36 pm Jun 09 2009
by Varmint
Upside down hand held belt sander locked in a vice turns into a nice sturdy belt sander. Nice level grind of the peen, stake, stamped thread right to the nut and she twisted off nicely. A little filing here and there and the nut comes off and back on without issue.

Loctite on reassembly?

Posted: 10:15 pm Jun 09 2009
by Colorado Mike
yup.

Posted: 11:06 am Jun 10 2009
by canyncarvr
Ditto
.
.
.
..with care taken that none of the threadlocker migrates to ANY place other than the threads. ...and blue will do.

BTW..Sears has 1/4" air cutoffs on sale for Craftsman Club Members at 1/2 price. Sooo...for $34 you could save yourself the vising fixation.

Need a compressor to run that cutoff? They got good deals on them this month, too!

Posted: 01:07 pm Jun 10 2009
by Varmint
What about these Amsoil suspension oils?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/stl.aspx
or
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/stm.aspx


I was leaning towards the Light version.

Posted: 10:32 pm Jun 10 2009
by canyncarvr
A point of reference: RaceTech recommends 'US1' for the KDX (KYB) shock. RaceTech relates their US1 to 3.5-5w.

The Amsoil site cross-references their #5 to 'RaceTech Light'..which isn't a description/nomenclature that RaceTech even uses (that I see from their website anyway).

I do find stuff like that curious. 'Ours is better than their Hoopity Doo!'

...but 'they' don't make a 'Hoopity Doo'.......

Why not cross reference the #5 to RaceTech's US0, US1..or whatever it actually matches?

Anyway.......

The Amsoil site does say:
AMSOIL Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid Light #5 (STL) is recommended for, but not limited to.... Kayaba,®....'
It's certainly less expensive than RaceTech's fluid.......

Posted: 12:29 am Jun 11 2009
by skipro3
>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote: BTW..Sears has 1/4" air cutoffs on sale for Craftsman Club Members at 1/2 price. Sooo...for $34 you could save yourself the vising fixation.
How about a link? I can't find 'em.

Posted: 12:45 am Jun 11 2009
by canyncarvr
It's in their mailed catalog. You gotta be speshul to get one.

The Sears site is 'temporarily closed for site enhancements' it seems. To get that price, take your mailed flyer into the store, they'll scan the barcode on the flyer..done.

It's # 19953.

Image


Man! The trouble I go to just to make monkey boy happy!! I oughtta get a medal.

Posted: 01:02 am Jun 11 2009
by skipro3
I'm a craftsman club member. Card carrying even. However, I don't like the air operated ones. Prefer an electric one.

so.

New single track discovered....

Hmmmm....

Posted: 09:50 am Apr 04 2011
by Varmint
Two years later, I blew another shock, so I'm finally getting around to rebuilding my original one. :oops:

How hard is it to get the seal head into the lower shock body. I'm having trouble pushing it in with my hands. Too much oil? Girly office hands? Or do I need some mechanical way to get that sucker in there?

Thanks!

Posted: 10:07 am Apr 04 2011
by scheckaet
there was a tutorial on this site.
It should go in there fairly easily, make sure everything is lined up, you should be able to push it with your hands. If you have to use something else you must be doing something wrong.

Posted: 10:46 am Apr 04 2011
by Varmint
That's what I thought. It's not going in easily at all.

Posted: 07:10 pm Apr 04 2011
by Varmint
Image

Is the seal head installed on the rod correctly. I measured it against the old old and they are identical. The seal will not go in the shock body. I'm doing something wrong.

Posted: 07:15 pm Apr 04 2011
by Varmint
I just found my old picture and fixed the original post, since the image was missing. So, now I've confirmed that I have it rebuilt correctly. Still wont go in. wtf!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

Posted: 09:15 pm Apr 04 2011
by scheckaet
i believe there is a sequence to do it, I had a hard time last rebuild, gave up and let the local mech do it. Tried a search here?

I'll try find where mine is.