KDXRIDER.NET

Oh its good to hear from someone who had the same problem. Yeah I thought that the inner part of the clutch assembly was supposed to spin easier. So did you do a clutch job and it still diddn't work right? What technically was wrong with your bike?

I rebuilt my top and bottom end and had the clutch taken out on my 91 kdx200, When i put it back in and started it the first time it seemed to have worked then I tore into the kickstarter mechanism again and for some reason when I put the clutch back together it did not want to disengage at all. I would pull in the clutch and pop it into gear and the bike would jolt forward and stall. After hours and hours of trial and error... My father had told me, try riding it and pull the clutch and rev the engine while shifting gears. Sure enough it became unstuck and started to work.

I had a old kx60 when I was a bit younger, My father told me it had the same issue once and it could be caused by the bike sitting for awhile.

I highly recomend you DO NOT pour that honda 80 w into your motor .15/ 40 Rotella works great .
Spend some time and read your service manual .

Bel Ray 75w is what I use.

Right! The guy at the shop said to use that 80w stuff and I had bought it before I got my manual. Hopefully I can find the receipt and return it. I'm still going to take the clutch apart and inspect the plates, and if the clutch still sticks I'll try that method you mentioned before, ethankdx.

Wish i could help you out , But im on the dry side of the state .

Ok ethankdx, can you go over that solution you mentioned? I start it, rev it, then pop it into first gear? What order do I do everything? Sadly, I don't have a hill where I live.

Just put it 2nd and give her a HARD shove, that should free the disks!

What do you mean by shove? Like roll then drop the clutch? Or just shove it from a dead standing with the clutch in?

Sticky clutches are very common on kds with the 80wt. Oil.to solve the problem start the bike, press the clutch and the front brake at the same time and pop it in to 2nd gear. repeat until the clutch get loose. Good luck

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Ok I have completely disassembled the clutch and have soaked the plates in oil. I'm putting everything back together and I'm stuck on the springs. I cant find any tourque specifications for the spring screws in my manual. Do I tighten them all the way till they are completely compressed? But arent those springs the same springs that provide the clutch lever with rebound?

The springs will compress completely, but the "star plate" can break very easily broke (I've learned the hard way). I was tightening mine down with a "Nut Driver" and broke it. Those things are hard to find (almost impossible), so don't use any real pressure on it. Just tighten till it stops.

So I tighten all the screws till they touch the 'star plate' and are fully compressed? I forget where the spring is for the rebound on the clutch lever - could you tell me?

Yes, and the rebound spring goes dead center, should have an aluminum piece that goes on it also.

I just put everything back together today. Put on the new gasket, put the case back together. Had good clutch rebound and everything. I tried to kick it but the kick lever is locked. What would be the cause of this? Maybe the gears diddn't mesh correctly? I was thinking about just loosening the case boilts enough to fix it.

I fixed the kick starter. It turned out the spring had falen out of its lock and was jammed in between the gears.
Now I have an oil leak. LOL, when do these problems go away? I think it is because of the spring somehow being in the way of the case closing all the way.

Hopefully you torqued the spring plate bolts correctly, 78 inch pounds is not a lot and easy to overtorque it and damage the pressure plate. You said you have a manual, but the questions you are asking should be answered by it. Since you had taken the clutch case half all the way off instead of just the outer portion, did you clean the mating surfaces and make sure there are no dings or damage, and get the bolts torqued If so your oil leaks should go away. These are pretty simple motors, almost all problems with them come from working without a manual or not taking the time to properly clean and prep things before reassembly.

I had to take the case off all the way to fix the spring. I think it is the spring that is holding the plate from sealing all the way, since it is in that area that it is leaking. I did not torque the spring screws to any specification but I am sure I did not over-tighten them.