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The bike didn't have the rubber connected boot thing on it when I picked it up. Honestly, I've done some searching and I can't find one online. Any suggestions?

If you mean the rubber boot between the pipe and spark arrestor, P/N 92093-1328 they were used on all H and A models and all KX250s from '92 on about $20 online. I haven't been able to locate a source for the jet block gasket.

Thanks for the p/n for the rubber connector boot. I called Sudco, it's in the mail. Hopefully this will work. Kinda running out of ideas.

Another post provided the jet block gasket source http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_532_su.html

Well guys, I replaced the jetblock gasket and jet needle, set float at 16mm. Damn thing still does it! So frustrated! Not sure what to do. I'm going to try attach YouTube. Link so u guys can hear the bike.running

I just re read the first post and it mentioned that you "Honed the cylinder". If so that was a bad idea. Probably not the cause of the running issue but if you honed it you may have removed / destroyed the plating on the cylinder. Unless the cylinder has been sleeved.

Yeah, it has been sleeved.

Don't know if its been mentioned, any chance you are burning trans oil?

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It has crossed my mind, tranny oil. I have been keeping a close eye on the level via the site glass. It doesn't seem as if its burning any. Level is where it was when I filled it. I know draining it and seeing how much oil comes out would be the best way to see if its burning. Exhaust smoke looks like straight 2tsmoke and smell good! Lol.

I will putting up a couple videos of the bike. It was hard to capture on video while was riding. You can hear it as my kid is riding away from it starts to sputter blubber. Also have another video while bike is stationary where I hold the throttle about 1/8 open and you can totally hear what I'm talking about plus all the smoke too. Vids will be up on next post.

What are you mixing the oil at? What grade of gas do you use? Have you ever tried some marine sta-bil for the ethanol? I had some bad spooge issues and the sta-bil helped a lot with that.

The stock stator timing is the middle mark.

Did you install the KIPS valves in the right location? Some of the books are wrong and have you install them on the wrong side. You can check by looking up the exhaust port. Also while on the KIPS topic, you did support the governor shaft when you were removing and reinstalling the "paw" gear didn't you?

The first video shows the inconsistent rev downlow around 1/8 throttle or so.there is no decent response on the bottom with this thing, gotta clutch it like a 125. Kips are in right. Timing is set to far left mark. 32:1 92 octane.

No bottom end might be a sign of a KIPS issue. Should probably start with getting the timing back to stock to start with.

32:1 might be a little heavy for some of the modern oils too. Yes you can jet to the 32:1 but it might be easier to try 40:1

+1


PO had put good weed whipper gas in mine and mixed 32 to 1 my bike ran the same way. New filter and everything else went through still same till I put 40/1 mix in her when gas ran out. Man that thing picked up a ton. I just wonder what the kips looks like after the heavy mix. From my understanding it might be built up from the heavy mix?

Manual says 40 to 1 anything else is either too lean or to heavy stick to specs and go to factory.............I also had the eratic idle afterwards.

Turned out to be a leak at reeds. Once buttoned up and mixed right and everything to manual I ripped through the turns and felt the blast of riding the rear light.

If all else fails Id look into the kips. I was concerned this was my problem but after the new discoveries I can honestly say it wasnt the problem for me.

Go over everything and if you have doubt then recheck and do over. Sometimes its just a little mistake but easily corrected.

Actually the manual says 32:1 (in several places), but as RBates said, modern oils are much better an 40:1 works well. KIPS issue wouldn't be apparent at 1/8 throttle and under. Down there its all air screw/ pilot jet/idle circuit. Double check everything, especially your airboot, reed valve boot, reed valve gaskets/cage/reeds, throttle cable play/operation. Any air leaks will cause issues. Then as painful as it sounds, clean fuel, air filter, and follow the jetting procedure.

whoops my bad yes your correct bufftester .....however I have wrote 40/1 in mine Ive made many sidenotes in that puppy. Sorry dont want to misinform. Workin for me. Hope you get it sorted out. Air leaks create havoc tho.

Something isn't right, for sure. I know its been said already, but I would double check the kips. Also you mention that it has a new top end and sleeved cylnder was honed. Did you check compression after break in? Next time you have it torn down you might check that the port openings in the sleeve are properly lined up with the cylinder ports.

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Funny thing is, upon initial assembly I had put the subvalves in on wrong side per my manual. And it ran the same way. So when I realized they were in wrong I was relieved cause I figured that that had to be the reason it was running the way it was. But, nope.
Julien, when it was apart I did inspect sleeve port areas, they actually did a really nice job on it whom ever done it. I can see skittles lite through the reeds, I have some on order.

Hey guys, its getting closer. The new reeds improved things, then on a whim I dropped the needle 1 spot. And that improved it the most. I'm now at the top clip position and wanting to go 1 position leaner to see what that does. So, beings I obviously know nada about Carb stuff what is the next leaner needle from the stock R1174k. Where im wanting to lean it is 1/4 1/2 throttle. Thanks for your guys input and patients with me on this.