1994 kx125 carb mount

[85' kid]

So the carb boot on my 125 is getting really cracked, and the rubber has gone dry beginning of dry rot. I looked to see if I could find one online and of course, I could not. Does anybody know of anyone that still makes them?

[Chuck78]

Try Consolidated Motorcycle Spares Netherlands, cmsnl.com - they have tons of OEM parts that most other places have long sold out of.

[85' kid]

Wow, they do have a lot of the original parts, unfortunately not the carb boot though. Appreciate the help, will remember this website.

[Chuck78]

Look up the OEM part number, and put it in quotation marks, and with the hyphen in the middle, search on eBay for it, and then at the top, click the option to save the search and get email or app alerts. That way you know immediately as soon as any come in.

The other thing I would recommend is looking to see if Boyesen makes a RAD Valve reed block/intake boot for it, they make high performance aftermarket read cages that use just a a rubber (silicone or viton) coupler to clamp the carb, with an aluminum spigot. Or a Moto Tassinari VForce3 or VForce# version of the same. It's pretty likely that one of those two companies would make one for your bike.

[KDXGarage]

I looked yesterday. The Boyesen part is 1994 only and out of stock.

I guess the angle must be way different on 1994. The reed cage is the same on 1995 OEM.

Here's the gasket:

This Kawasaki 11009-1941 REED VALVE GASKET fits the following models and components:

Aftermarket Parts Fuel & Air Reeds & Reed Valves Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX125 - KX125-K5 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 KX125 - KX125-K2 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1990 KX125 - KX125-H1 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1991 KX125 - KX125-H2 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 KX125 - KX125-J1 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 KX125 - KX125-K1 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 KX125 - KX125-J2 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX125 - KX125-L1 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KX125 - KX125-K4 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 KX125 - KX125-K3 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX125 - KX125-L2 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KX125 - KX125-L4 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KX125 - KX125-L3 CRANKCASE

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX220R - KDX220-A8 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KMX 125 - KMX125-A14 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX220R - KDX220-A9 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX220R - KDX220-A12 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX200 - KDX200-H6 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX220R - KDX220-A11 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX220R - KDX220-A7 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 KDX200 - KDX200-E4 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1991 KDX200 - KDX200-E3 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX200 - KDX200-H8 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX200 - KDX200-H7 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1990 KDX200 - KDX200-E2 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KMX 125 - KMX125-A12 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX200 - KDX200-H5 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1989 KDX200 - KDX200-E1 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 KDX200 - KDX200-E6 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX220R - KDX220-A4 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX200 - KDX200-H3 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 KDX200 - KDX200-H1 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX200 - KDX200-H4 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX220R - KDX220-A5 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX200 - KDX200-H10 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX220R - KDX220-A10 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX200 - KDX200-H11 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2006 KDX200 - KDX200H6F Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 KDX200 - KDX200-H2 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 KDX200 - KDX200-E5 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX200 - KDX200-H9 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KMX 125 - KMX125-A13 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX220R - KDX220-A6 Cylinder Head & Cylinder

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1985 KX125 - KX125-D1 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1986 KX125 - KX125-E1 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1983 KX125 - KX125-B2 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1984 KDX200 - KDX200-A2 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1985 KDX200 - KDX200-A3 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1984 KX125 - KX125-C1 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1987 KX125 - KX125-E2 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1982 KX125 - KX125-B1 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1983 KDX200 - KDX200-A1 Cylinder Head / Cylinder / Reed Valve

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1983 KX500 - KX500-A1 CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER/REED VALVE ('83 A

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1984 KX500 - KX500-A2 CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER/REED VALVE ('83 A

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1986 KX125 - KX125-E1 Gasket Kit

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1985 KX125 - KX125-D1 Gasket Kit

[85' kid]

Sweets thanks, yeah I was running the part # on partzilla and no other bikes shared that year

[85' kid]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155442585031 there's this one on ebay for 98-99 is it worth giving a try? Cause if its at a different angle it just wouldn't potentially line up with the airbox and if that's the case I guess I would have to get a 98-99 airbox

[KDXGarage]

It is hard to say without having them in hand. It may throw the carb into the frame or airbox into the frame.

[SS109]

Ok, I'm going to throw it out there as just a stop gap measure until you can find a replacement just so you can ride your bike.

Plasti Dip, the liquid in a can, not the spray, will work to seal the intake manifold and actually last quite a while. The stuff is gasoline and chemical resistant and is fairly easy to apply. I would clean the manifold in hot soapy water (preferably regular blue Dawn dish detergent) and scrub with a stiff plastic brush. Let thoroughly dry. Once dry use a disposable paint brush to brush the plasti dip on to the intake manifold taking care to not get it anywhere you don't want it. Of course, you could tape off those areas but you gotta make sure to pull the tape BEFORE the plasti dip dries or it will bond to it! Apply the coat quickly and use the end of your brush to work it in a bit in to anywhere there are big cracks. Then hang part to dry and follow the drying instructions on the can to the letter. Take care on how you sit the piece for drying as plasti dip tends to move/run so you want anywhere it runs to easy to trim off the excess with a razor blade/x-acto knife.

When you reinstall the manifold be sure to not over tighten your clamps and you should be good to go!

[85' kid]

Yeah, that's a good idea, cheap too. https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11621- ... C171&sr=8-5 this the stuff you talking about ?

[SS109]

Yes, that's the stuff. Remember, use only the dip kind.

[Chuck78]

That's a good tip to know, thank you.

[85' kid]

Can I also use it on the inside of the boot? the inside has some cracking as well not nearly as bad but there

[SS109]

I have never tried it on the inside but I don't see why you couldn't. I would probably prep it exactly the same. However, I would do both the inside and outside, along with over where the carb slides in it, all at the same time so they become one coating and not two separate coatings. This would be so the inside coating can't ever pull loose and be sucked in to the engine.

[KDXGarage]

I would not do it inside. What if it breaks free? Instant grenade!

[85' kid]

KDX garage has a point but isn't this stuff going to just get burned up in the cylinder if it were to break apart?

[SS109]

IME, when you get Plasti Dip on rubber it bonds to it like glue, you'll never be able to get it all off. If you prep the surface then I would highly doubt it ever lifting and, if you apply it all as one coat like I suggested, the inside coating can't go in the engine because it will still be bonded over the intake's carb end.

That said, if it did come off and end up in your motor it could cause an issue but I would suspect it would be more of the melting kind and gumming up a ring or powervalve. It never gets hard like a piece of metal or hard plastic.

[85' kid]

How many coats should I put on? currently, I have applied two.

[SS109]

You want all the coats done while the previous coat is not fully dried so that they bond together. If you've done two then I'm sure it has dried by now so I would leave it be.

[85' kid]

So I let it dry overnight, it says allow a minimum of 4 hours and I gave it more like 12. I grabbed some 50:1 fuel and dripped some onto it and rubbed my finger over it and it started to come off. Maybe I did something wrong, I bought the dip stuff and not the rattle can one like you said. I prepped it with blue don dish soap and water then dried it with a towel and air compressor and it was a nice bonding surface. The two coats I applied were done within 25 min of each other. What do you think went wrong?