KDXRIDER.NET

I just bought a 2000 kx125 that was taken apart by kids after they ran it into a pond and attempted to fix it. It was left in pieces so I went through everything that wasn't like new. It now feels like a new bike except the rear shock clickers don't have any effect and the back end has no dampening resistance. Since it was unrideable when I bought it I'm not sure if it was already like this before I serviced it or if I made a mistake. I didn't disassemble the clickers, I only replaced the bushing, seal, bumper and the bladder with a pivot works kit. I have serviced dozens of shocks without ever having a problem but I leave the shim stack changes up to the pros. I really like the bike and I'm considering keeping it and woods riding it in which case I would have it re-valved specifically for me. I would like anyone with some experience to give me some possible reasons why I have no dampening resistance. I can easily disassemble the shock but when I do I'd like to be looking for a possible problem that I must have overlooked before.

Welcome to kdxrider. Although this is a KDX forum, we do have an "other bikes" section, so I moved your thread there.

Do the clickers feel broken? If you have already done dozens of shocks with no problems, AND you had zero ride information on this one, it makes me wonder if it was working when you got it.

If you reassembled it correctly, then "those kids cranked on the clickers and broke them" is my best guess.

Did you recharge the bladder to the correct psi with nitrogen?

The clickers feel normal but it is possible the previous owner damaged them. I didn't disassemble them when I serviced the shock so I don't know for sure. I did charge the shock correctly with nitrogen. I figured since the KDX and KX use the same basic shock that someone on this forum might have had the same problem. I'm going to disassemble the shock next week when I get some time. I've been doing some asking around and it's possible the when grinding the lock nut to remove it from the shock shaft on a Showa if you grind a bit too much and nick the shaft the internal valving in the shaft can be spit out and lose rebound dampening. Apparently this is a lot more of a concern on a Showa than a KYB. I was very careful when I ground the lock nut but anything is possible.

On all the KYB's I have ever done or read about, one just grinds it flat across. Showa is the one where one has to grind at an angle as it keeps part of the rebound parts inside.

VERY, VERY lightly turn the clickers all the way in. If it comes to a VERY gentle stop, then maybe they are not broken. If they keep spinning forever, then they are broken.

Did you remove the clevis??

No, I did not remove the clevis. The clickers feel normal and I did grind at an angle and took off what I felt was the minimum needed to remove the nut. I'm ordering a special nut made by Race Tech ($10) that captures the valve to fix this problem. I'm going to take the shock apart after I get the nut that way I can put it right back together. I'll post again when I learn more.

Skyrooster wrote:No, I did not remove the clevis. The clickers feel normal and I did grind at an angle and took off what I felt was the minimum needed to remove the nut. I'm ordering a special nut made by Race Tech ($10) that captures the valve to fix this problem. I'm going to take the shock apart after I get the nut that way I can put it right back together. I'll post again when I learn more.

Hi. If you did not remove the clevis, then the location of the rebound rod should be as fine as it was before disassembly.

If it was the stock shock, it is a KYB. One does not need to grind it at an angle. I just grind them flat across. Showa is the one that had the rebound retention and one needed to grind the nut away at an angle. Again, assuming it was a KYB, it should be fine and not need a special nut.

One trick I can tell is...
loosen the locking nut / spring collar
then take the shock off and put it in a vise (with aluminum jaws, please )
take the spring off
back off the rebound damping to full counterclockwise
fully compress the shock (usually takes me two hands)
with one hand and some effort, keep it fully compressed
tighten the rebound adjuster to full clockwise

let go
if it stays locked down and does not budge, then that is a good sign
if not, that is a bad sign