No spark issue and other issues.

[kml9705]

First off, I did do a search and I came up with everything but a no spark issue.

Here's the back story. I have a 1989 KDX200 that I purchased new, so I know the complete history. It's been in my shed for about 20 years occasionally coming out and riding it around the yard. Well, the water pump seal went about 15 years ago and it just sat until a few months ago. I resurrected it, replacing the water pump seal. Surprisingly everything looked good inside. I cleaned the carburetor and reeds. With a little fresh gas and starting fluid it it fired up. It was running great, except... Prior this bike would start up every time on the second or third kick. Once warmed up, first kick every time. Issue 1 - now it needs starting fluid to start for the first time each day. After that it starts without it, till the next day and first start I again need starting fluid.

Issue 2 - Ever since about a year after I bought it, it would constantly blow the head light bulb. the rear bulb would always be fine. I figured maybe there was a short. I looked over the entire wiring harness and I did not discover anything that looked bad. I started checking connecters, for corrosion. I did one at a time so not to mix anything up. All looked good. I went to start it and nothing. Checked for spark and it had none. Well, I went over all the connections again, everything was good. I disconnected the wire from the kill switch. I'll be damned, it had spark. I figure it's an easy fix, a bad kill switch. Today I put in a brand new kill switch. Hooked everything up and no spark. I tested the original kill switch, It was working perfectly. Why would it have spark with the kill switch disconnected but no spark with it connected?

I'm very confused.

[bufftester]

Issue 1 clean the carb, and verify good fuel flow from the tank. You will also want to check the jet block gasket. Then clean the carb again (don't dip it).

Issue 2 Recheck your wiring first. You can check the kill switch in place by disconnecting the black/white wire and putting a meter on the switch end of the wire and the other lead at the ground point. With the switch not depressed you should have an open. With the switch pressed it should be a short. Check all the wiring, especially around any zip ties or rub points for the insulation worn. Sounds like a short somewhere in there. As for the blown headlight bulbs, it was a known issue on the 89 bikes because there was no voltage regulator. That got installed in the 90-94 E-series bikes, specifically because of that issue IIRC.

[kml9705]

I cleaned the carburetor once already, removed all jets, replaced the float valve, etc. I'll do it again and double check the Jet Block gasket as you suggest. There is good fuel flow from the tank and I'm running non-ethanol fuel.

I checked the kill switch as you said and it checks good, but no spark. But when I disconnect the B/W wire I have spark. This is happening with both the old and new kill switch. I checked the harness last week, no visible signs of rub through. It could be a broken wire somewhere under the protective covering. I'm going to work on it tomorrow again. I'll start checking continuity from end to end of each wire.

Thanks for the wiring diagram, that will be helpful.

Hopefully the frustration ends soon.

[bufftester]

try leaving the black/white wire on the kill switch connected and remove the black ground from the frame and see what happens. as long as the black/white wire going into the CDI is not going to ground it should have spark.

[kml9705]

I figured out my starting issue and I kinda feel stupid. It was a bad spark plug causing all my issues. I did not think it was the spark plug as it was brand new in the box, but it had been sitting in my garage for about 25 years. Once I had my son come over and kick the bike while I watched for spark. I noticed the spark was jumping from the center to the outside threaded area instead of across the electrodes and it was very week. I could not see this trying to do it all myself. I put a new spark plug in and it fired up on the first kick.

As for the lighting issue, I decided to give up on the AC system running my lights. After reading some posts on this forum here and watching some some Youtube videos, I decided to convert it over to 12V DC. I ordered a bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC, small 12V battery and necessary connectors. I'm waiting for the stuff to arrive. I'll let you know how it comes out.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

[KDXGarage]

Well, at least it was a very cheap solution! :-)

Let us know on the battery setup, please. Thanks.

[kml9705]

So far I have removed all the factory lighting wires, the bridge rectifier mounted to the top of the air box and ran new wires to the headlight. I replaced the headlight socket with one that is wired for hi/low beam and the taillight socket with one that can also do a brake light. I'm wiring in a SICASS Racing Universal Keyed Kill Switch. In the off position it works like the kill switch so the bike can't be started. In on position it will put power to the lights, eliminating the factory light switch. I'm also adding a KEMIMOTO Motorcycle License Plate Bracket with license plate light and the Tusk Enduro Lighting Kit Battery.

I will eventually order the Tusk Enduro Lighting kit to add blinkers and horn. This will also replace the wiring harness I'm making now. I don't want to spend the money on the kit till I know if my concept will work or not. The taillight socket isn't the best. I had to solder the ground wire on but it will do.

I was going to add some pictures but I'm having trouble figuring out how

Bridge Rectifier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L94NTSB?ps ... ct_details
Headlight Socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HSOQ7KW?ps ... ct_details
Taillight Socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32HY48?ps ... ct_details
License Plate Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PQ68SV?re ... tails&th=1
Brake Light Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039 ... UTF8&psc=1
Keyed Kill Switch: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/part ... p?s=938096
Tusk Battery: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/part ... ?s=1199540

Ken L.

[KDXGarage]

from my signature...

Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128

[kml9705]

Thanks

[kml9705]

Well, It works good off the battery, lol. Before hooking the bridge rectifier int the system, I checked the output voltage. It is only putting out a little over 9 volts. So I ordered a Step Up/Down Regulator. It will take 8v - 40v and regulate it to a constant 13.8v. This should arrive tomorrow. We'll see how this works

Step Up/Down Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089M ... =UTF8&th=1


Here is some picks on battery power.

[KDXGarage]

Even the switch is lime green. :-) Good job.

[kml9705]

Even the switch is lime green. :-) Good job.

Thanks. That's the Hi/Low beam switch and that wasn't originally planned. I needed one on/on switch for my 1986 KLR 600 project. I could only order a minimum of three. It came with two black covers and one lime green. I had to use the lime green one for this project.

Today I attempted to install the regulator, it was bad. Go figure, cheap Amazon items. So I'm returning it and I already ordered a replacement. It will be here on Wednesday. I put a diode in line with the battery positive wire so it doesn't overcharge.

I put in the pressure brake switch in the front master cylinder. I'll wire that up tomorrow as well as take off the front caliper and see what shape that is in. The rear one was frozen, I'm hoping the front one just needs a good cleaning and new pads. I'll find out tomorrow.