KDXRIDER.NET

This will be a build/maintenance thread. I can't ride currently so I'm tinkering with the kdx. We have 5 bikes so I never really had the time to dig in to this bike. Bought it last year done a few things to it.
It's a 94 kdx 200 with stock jetting stock airbox an fmf gold series pipe I think it's the woods pipe. I'm not sure what silencer the sticker wore off. Cheaters front and rear. Here are some pictures

Also running a br9es mixing 40 to 1 with motul 710. There was lots of spooge out the silencer when I got it and still does. Also around the connection of the pipe to the exhaust flange. Carb bowl gasket leaked so I bought a rebuild kit, didn't know about the jet block gasket then so I didn't do that. Seems to be fouling plugs so before I mess with jetting I'd like to clean and repack the silencer and clean out the pipe.
This plug wasn't ran very long

Nice to see another "E" model KDX200 on here.

The FMF pipe is the Gold Series model. The Woods / Desert is for 1995 and newer.
The spark arrestor is the Answer S/A Pro 2.

You might want to clean up the cylinder where the pipe mounts to check for wear. Some silicone could help it to stop leaking.

Ya most of the stuff I read is on the 95 plus bikes. I have a list of stuff to do on the bike. It's a real fun bike to ride and you can really ring it out and not be dangerously out of control. I'm new to two strokes and I know this is a tame two stroke but the top end seems very mild or flat. Still need time on the bike, need to get the silencer repacked and make sure the jetting is good before I consider a top end rebuild or anything like that.

Yes I will clean up all that gunk and is that a copper washer in there? Probably losing some back pressure from that leak. I'll make sure to add some hi temp silicone.

So is there only one fmf pipe for my bike, the gold series?

This cylinder look normal. Hard to get a good picture of it but the cylinder looks alright to me but the head or the sleeve the cylinder slides in looks a little weathered not gouges but scratches, a few of them horizontal.

Check the KIPS power valves if the top end seems flat.

The wheel that came on the bike were in rough shape, the spokes where lose, bent and seized. The rear especially, it had a crack welded up and you could rock the tire left and right in all the slop from the loose spokes. The spokes had been loose so long the wheel and the hub were "slotted" or oblong.
Luckily I found a rear wheel on ebay with seized spokes but was in good shape. I had a local wheel shop re lace some new spokes, which was expensive. I also cleaned up the exhaust flange and realized how much I want to pull the motor and do everything but that would be a big can of worms. Tomorrow I'll clean up the pipe and repack the silencer.

It looks way overdue for a piston and rings.

SHINY SPOKES!!

You might want to go ahead and put on your worm gloves. It could use a thorough inspection.

Awe man you really think I need to do piston and rings? If I do that I'd like to check out the kips. Doing a piston and rings kind of sounds over my head. But im sure it would be fine. It probably does need it because the bike didn't seem to have full power at least up top.

Fauss1 wrote: ↑11:15 pm Feb 08 2022 Awe man you really think I need to do piston and rings?

Sorry but, yeah, if you see black deposits on the piston, below the rings, it is more than time to change them. It's not hard to do a top end on any 2T dirt bike. Just need a service manual, some tools, and a little mechanical aptitude and you can get'r done.

Well thanks for the positivity SS109. I guess I'll start saving some cash and doing some research. The wheels put me back a few pennies.

You're welcome. We're here to help walk you through it if you need us. This forum is all about sharing info and helping each other when we can.

You can do it! Ask lots of questions and take pictures. Get a manual. Watch some you tube. It's really not to hard. Takes a few hours of your time/labor. I am here most everyday.

Update on the bike. I cleaned up the pipe and torched out all the build up on the inside. As for the silencer I was never able to take it apart. So I just put the bolts and rivets back in. Also when I got the bike it had 3 inches of bar risers on and the bars weren't centered. I took all those off and got the bars aligned.
Now I'm cleaning the front forks and changing wheel bearings also found a bad spot where the axle slides in. Looks like the axle had spun at one time. This is the first time I've had the front wheel off and didn't notice it till now. The axle seems to be fine just the aluminum fork is buggered up.
The bike still need a lot of work but for now it's going back together.

That silencer does come apart but they can be a real pain sometimes to do so. Get it apart and repacked as it will make a difference in how it runs.

Oh, I missed it in an earlier post but you shouldn't be running the BR9ES. That is a little cold for the KDX. The BR8ES, or equivalent, is what you want to run.

Thanks SS109 I think I have both br9es and the br8es but I was using the 9. As for the silencer I will give it another go I just needed to get another bike in the garage at the moment.

Started going through the bike again. Are these stock reeds and red cage. I don't see any signs of wear and no light coming through. I have stock jetting and clip position, if the reeds aren't stock I should probably change the jetting a little. Getting ready to tear into doing my first top end. Hopefully find a place that will properly measure the piston and cylinder so I can buy the right size. I heard calipers weren't precise enough.

That's a stock reed setup.

Good job. Keep at it.

Look up "inside micrometer". It is an accurate way to measure the interior of a cylinder.