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Noob here -

I have a 1993 KDX200 - bike was/has been running great. For some odd reason my son took off the cover for the Stator and noticed a little oil inside. Put all back together and wouldnt start. Took the bike to local motorcycle shop and they said:

1) the CDI BOX is inoperative - all circuits coming out are open.
2) Ignition coil maybe fine but secondary wires tested at double the resistance it showed as spec so this maybe an issue. spec 5.9 ohms, tested @ 11.5 ohms
3) The stator was putting out 19V AC. ( I assume this is good? )

I've ordered a used CDI ( 21119-1257 ) and installed it ( two wires to the ignition coil, 2 to the stator ( red/white ) and ( black ), and finally the black/white to the kill switch ) - i think this is accurate as i followed a wiring diagram for this year bike. as info the previous owner disconnected the lights and wiring so the yellow from the Stator is no longer connected to anything.

Additionally based on above result from dealer I have a new ignition coil on the way. ( I also found another CDI and that is also on the way )

My question is - could the NEW/used CDI I ordered be bad? ( if so how to test is easily? ) once installed we tried to kick it over and there is no spark - I should be getting the new ignition coil in a couple of days - that part was still available on kawasaki parts.

thanks for any advice.

Rob

I don’t know this for sure, but I think these CDIs can only be tested with a Kawasaki tester. They have diodes that control the flow of electricity in them. My CDI read all open when I tested, and it’s good. The way I tested it was I held the leads with my hands with it hooked up and kicked it over a few times, and it shocked me. It can’t be read with a meter because the jolts are so short.

What about the spark plug? Have you changed it?

I also got 19v from my stator when I kicked it over without the plug in. Test your resistances while you’re at it.

Put in the new ignition coil and try a new plug. Sand all of your grounds too.

Oh yeah, if you’ve got oil in the stator case your crank seal is probably bad. Do a leak down test to confirm

Kdxsully is correct, a meter won't tell you if the CDI is good or not, if it was running prior to pulling the cover then it didn't magically die. What else did he take off? Just the cover won't cause the bike to stop running. As mentioned, clean all your grounds well, new plug. Your secondary coil should be 5,000 - 6700 ohms, the primary winding should be 0.8-1.2 ohms, and your plug wire lead (plug cap) should be in the 4,000- 6,000 ohm range. You can also check your exciter coil (the one on the stator plate under the flywheel that feeds the CDI the firing pulse) by checking between the White/red wire and the black wire coming out of the case, should be 300-450 ohms, though if its reading 19VAC it's likely good. You can check the CDI by pulling the Black/yellow wire of the coil and hold it while you kick, it will shock you if working like kdxsully said. There should only be one wire from the CDI to the coil, black/yellow. The other black wire is a ground that often gets connected to the ground post of the coil, but you can connect it to any good ground, Double check and make sure if its attached to the coil that it's in the right place.

Oh, also try unplugging the kill switch to rule it out if it’s bad.

If a 1989 - 1994 has oil in the left side cover it could come from the junction of the inset for the main bearing not expanding at the same rate as the aluminum case.

I think there was a Kawasaki tip for dealers to J-B Weld those up. I did it on my 1994.

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https://www.eric-gorr.com/files/pdfs/mo ... wasaki.pdf

awesome input by all. will keep ya posted on progress once parts arrive. thank you!

kdxsully wrote: ↑04:46 pm Jun 29 2019 Oh, also try unplugging the kill switch to rule it out if it’s bad.

i assume that just means unplugging the wire from CDI to switch? shouldn't have to do anything else?

robbct@yahoo.com wrote: ↑12:31 pm Jun 30 2019

kdxsully wrote: ↑04:46 pm Jun 29 2019 Oh, also try unplugging the kill switch to rule it out if it’s bad.

i assume that just means unplugging the wire from CDI to switch? shouldn't have to do anything else?

Correct.

UPDATE: - bikes back running. wooo hooo.. Thanks to everyone on the thread here for the advice. So in the end - the bottomline was the stator was hosed. I talked to someone pretty awesome at ricky stator and they told me to GO BACK and TEST the stator. should measure in teh ohms range as mentioned above. I ended up using a stator off a parted KDX250 that was clapped and low and behold she fired right up. AS good measure I did manage to get a brand new ignition coil on it along with a CDI - so all those parts are new.

Thanks again to this awesome group = now onto fixing the clutch :)

Congratulations on getting it going!

robbct@yahoo.com wrote: ↑02:33 pm Jul 21 2019 UPDATE: - bikes back running. wooo hooo.. Thanks to everyone on the thread here for the advice. So in the end - the bottomline was the stator was hosed. I talked to someone pretty awesome at ricky stator and they told me to GO BACK and TEST the stator. should measure in teh ohms range as mentioned above. I ended up using a stator off a parted KDX250 that was clapped and low and behold she fired right up. AS good measure I did manage to get a brand new ignition coil on it along with a CDI - so all those parts are new.

Thanks again to this awesome group = now onto fixing the clutch :)

Very nice. Why not see if your old CDI is still good too?