Headlight

[Scottkdx1980]

Do anyone have a part # or something to go by I have the harness and headlight housing but no bulb and I’m having trouble finding a bulb that works


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cornishwrecker220]

Check out UFO plastics ....they make a quality replacement pattern headlight shroud that includes all wiring & headlamp glass inc bulb ... ( bulb is 25w )

[rungrandpa]

Babbitts has them for $34.00.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemp ... /head-lamp
My manual says they are 30 watt.

[rungrandpa]

oops thats just the lens - the body is non stock and the bulb that goes in is 25.00

[KDXGarage]

Do you have the headlight shell that the bulb goes inside?

You can get a Yamaha bulb that is 25 watts for a good bit less than Kawasaki OEM. There may be a thread on it somewhere on here.

If you want strong lights, you will need a rewind and an aftermarket headlight system. The stock system is not super bright.

[GOT WOODS?]

I dual-sported my 2003 220 a while back and got this:



So far so good. I coupled it with this rectifier:



and got a tusk headlight switch so I could have high and low beams. Works great and not a lot of hassle. The headlight is LED so it draws very little so no rewinding of anything. Best of all the light output fries the retinas of any squirrels that cross my path....

[GOT WOODS?]

Forgot to mention in my last post: The headlight bulb comes with a bunch of different adapters and one of them works nicely with the hard-to-find-a-bulb-that-fits stock KDX housing.

[ericr]

For my H series, I found one on Amazon... https://tinyurl.com/y7rodmxu

[SS109]

The bulb replacement thread: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... =77&t=9531

[TRUAX]

I dual-sported my 2003 220 a while back and got this:



So far so good. I coupled it with this rectifier:



and got a tusk headlight switch so I could have high and low beams. Works great and not a lot of hassle. The headlight is LED so it draws very little so no rewinding of anything. Best of all the light output fries the retinas of any squirrels that cross my path....

So you do need a rectifier to run that LED bulb? It's just showing up as two of the same links to the bulb for me.

[6 Riders]

The KDX headlight bulb is available at Batteries Plus Bulbs in a twin pack for $5.00.

[GOT WOODS?]

I dual-sported my 2003 220 a while back and got this:



So far so good. I coupled it with this rectifier:



and got a tusk headlight switch so I could have high and low beams. Works great and not a lot of hassle. The headlight is LED so it draws very little so no rewinding of anything. Best of all the light output fries the retinas of any squirrels that cross my path....

So you do need a rectifier to run that LED bulb? It's just showing up as two of the same links to the bulb for me.

Sorry for the delay, hadn't been on here for a while.... snowmobile season!!

Here is the link to the rectifier. I tried it without replacing the stock one and the lights would not work right. They flickered badly.



I forget how I hooked it up as the stock one has 2 wires and this has 4. I know I cut off 2 but I don't know which ones.

I think that I somehow got a "frame ground" mixed in to the battery system as the battery keeps discharging. The Tusk light kit that I used keeps all of the LED directional lights, tail lights and horn on a grounded strictly-to-the-battery set up (I think this is called a floating ground). The headlight stays on the bikes charging system and grounds to the frame. I must have missed isolating a ground somewhere but haven't delved into it to figure out where. I'll do this in the spring I guess.

[TRUAX]

Right on man, been looking to beef up the headlight a bit. Thanks for getting back to me!

[brademan76]

Sorry for the delay, hadn't been on here for a while.... snowmobile season!!

Here is the link to the rectifier. I tried it without replacing the stock one and the lights would not work right. They flickered badly.



I forget how I hooked it up as the stock one has 2 wires and this has 4. I know I cut off 2 but I don't know which ones.

I think that I somehow got a "frame ground" mixed in to the battery system as the battery keeps discharging. The Tusk light kit that I used keeps all of the LED directional lights, tail lights and horn on a grounded strictly-to-the-battery set up (I think this is called a floating ground). The headlight stays on the bikes charging system and grounds to the frame. I must have missed isolating a ground somewhere but haven't delved into it to figure out where. I'll do this in the spring I guess.

Looks like the rectifier has two wires for current coming from the stator and and two for current going to the battery/lights. So your headlight is getting current directly from this rectifier and nothing from the battery, correct?

I'm just trying to understand because with these priced so cheaply I purchased them and am going to try to make them work on my E-series. Chances are I'll try to wire it in before you get a chance to respond, but would be good for everyone's knowledge if you can share. I plan to do the same.

[GOT WOODS?]

I'll try to look at it in the morning but I am flat out at work and I might not get a chance. But yes, the headlight is isolated from the battery. The light kit for the directionals, tail/brakelight and horn strictly run off of the battery which does not get charged off of the bikes electrical system. These lights can't be grounded to the frame, just back to the negative terminal on the battery or else the battery goes dead. This battery needs to be charged via an external battery charger. They are LED lights so they draw very little. This is to get you legal and to get you down the street between trails. If you needed a full-time set up you'd need to get some other system, or maybe you can make the charging system charge the battery too. This is way above my pay grade though so someone else would need to chime in on how to make that work. The headlight runs the same as it did originally with the same wires however they are now wired through a switch on the handlebars that turns them on and off and also gives you the high and low beam that the KDX is lacking now (at least it is on the H-series, E's may be different). The LED draws way less so you can run it off of the bike's stock stator without having to rewind it. If anyone sees a mistake in any of this information please feel free to correct me. This is what I cobbled together from my research last spring but either I got a defective battery or I ended up grounding a light (other than the headlight) somewhere as the battery keeps discharging. I'll figure this out in the spring...

[brademan76]

Cool, yeah I don't care about the other lights nor do I have any other than the stock taillight, just want the headlight brighter- for when I'm using it on a trail before sun up. Not worried about street legal and don't have a battery. If you could let me know how you've got it wired up, that would be incredibly helpful, thanks!

I was just going to wire the low and high wires together on the light and run on high all the time.

[KDXGarage]

If you just want a headlight and tailligh, you can rewind the lighting coil or buy one already wound. Ricky Stator is one place to consider.

[brademan76]

If you just want a headlight and tailligh, you can rewind the lighting coil or buy one already wound. Ricky Stator is one place to consider.

Thanks, however I've already purchased the led and rectifier GOT WOODS? posted above so need to get the rectifier wired in for DC to power the bulb.

[GOT WOODS?]

If you just want a headlight and tailligh, you can rewind the lighting coil or buy one already wound. Ricky Stator is one place to consider.

Thanks, however I've already purchased the led and rectifier GOT WOODS? posted above so need to get the rectifier wired in for DC to power the bulb.

I finally got a chance to pull the bike out of the garage and look at what I did for the rectifier. Sorry for the delay... Per your suggestion that I add some detail to help others in the future, here goes:

So pic number one shows the stock rectifier that I pulled out next to the one I noted in a previous post. Note that the new one has two bolt holes instead of the original's one bolt hole. Interestingly, the extra bolt hole lines up perfectly with an existing bolt hole that the KDX already had. Makes me curious as to why that hole was on the frame and why this rectifier would bolt up to it. Maybe there is a "rectifier standard" out there where they are all dimensionally the same...

IMG_9294.jpg (99.16 KiB) Viewed 14172 times

The next pic shows the wires I used and the ones that I capped off as the rectifier comes with 4 wires and the KDX only uses 2.

IMG_9293.jpg (128.88 KiB) Viewed 14172 times

The last pic shows the rectifier connected to the KDX wires. Yellow rectifier wire to brown KDX wire, and pink rectifier wire to black with yellow stripe KDX wire. (Sorry the pic is sideways, anyone know a fix?)

IMG_9296.jpg (122.19 KiB) Viewed 14172 times

That is it although it took a while to figure it all out as the instruction that came with the rectifier kinda sucked. I have not had more than maybe 16 hours on the bike since I installed the dualsport Tusk light kit and this separate LED headlight set up. I did run the headlight through the Tusk headlight controller (which does not tie in with the rest of the dualsport Tusk kit which runs off a battery-driven-only circuit) and now I have hi/low beams when the engine is running. So far the only issue was when the headlight bulb popped out during a ride but that just screwed right back in to the housing. As I mentioned previously, the light is incredibly bright and the low draw of the LED headlight means I did not have to rewind the stator. The only other issue has been the battery won't hold a charge now and I purchased it last July and only really used it for the 16 hours I mentioned. It wasn't actually in use for any of those 16 hours either as I did not need the tail light, brake light, horn or turn signals that the battery is used for. So not impressed with the Tusk battery. I have another on order with RMATV and it cost around $30.

So that's it. Let me know if anyone has any questions or needs any clarifications on how I did any of this.

[ericr]

I'm interested in doing this too, but don't know how it can work based upon how you have it wired. This rectifier has 4 wires - 2 for AC power and ground from the stator, and 2 for DC out and ground. You removed the stock voltage regulator and replaced it with the rectifier and capped off the DC out.

The proper way to wire this is to disconnect the yellow stator wire and connect it to the yellow wire on the rectifier. Since the stator is internally grounded, you can connect the pink to ground. Connect red to the lighting circuit and green to ground. The Amazon listing says that this rectifier must be used with a battery to regulate voltage. I would wire a capacitor instead.

Here's the wiring diagram that shows the yellow stator wire that would connect to a rectifier. Edit: Or even easier, if all you want is the headlight, just cut the black and red wires right at the headlight and splice the rectifier in. Splice in a capacitor on the DC wires to replace a battery.

wiring.jpg (217.33 KiB) Viewed 14163 times