Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Discussion specific to the 1989 - 1994 (E Series) KDX200 model sold in the USA
Martin-vereert
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Martin-vereert »

Molly's 70 wrote:Tell me about your tungsten. What do you use? Is your TIG torch water cooled? Are you 220/240 V? I have no idea what Argentina is like. Parakeet hunting?
Im from Patagonia, almost any parakeets here and since i live inside a natural reserve hunting is prohibited, motocross/enduro also but you know... :supz: :supz:
About the welder, it's not water cooled and 220 v. If i have to be totally sincere with you the welder is not mine but my dads, he tought me stick welding a few years back and just recently gave me the basics about TIG, im giving him all of your teaching since he isnt experienced in aluminum either. We will both try learning.

Just gave you a short story of my life haha. I will go take a look at the tungsten tip!
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Molly's 70
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

All is well. What tungsten? Measure for 3/32". Red stripe = 2% thoriated? - Green = zirconium? It does not matter. I'd just like to know. We can get the job done no matter what.

We might ball the end of your tungsten. Let's get other stuff done first. No need to complicate things. Let's refill with 100% Argon & start burning up some scrap aluminum. :grin:
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Martin-vereert
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Martin-vereert »

Molly's 70 wrote:All is well. What tungsten? Measure for 3/32". Red stripe = 2% thoriated? - Green = zirconium? It does not matter. I'd just like to know. We can get the job done no matter what.

We might ball the end of your tungsten. Let's get other stuff done first. No need to complicate things. Let's refill with 100% Argon & start burning up some scrap aluminum. :grin:
We have both pointy red and green. Im really short on cash right now so it will probably be a week or so before i can get anything welded, but i promise i will be back! you dont get free teaching often, really apreciate all the time you are taking here!
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

Red & green are fine. I sharpen the tungsten, about 2 1/2 times the diameter. The tungsten will form a ball naturally with A/C current. We can make a better ball on the tungsten with DC+ (reverse Polarity) for a short burst. This will keep the tip of the tungsten from wobbling under high temperature/current. Under reverse polarity (DC+) burn the ponted tungsten to about the same size as the diameter of the tungsten.

We will weld with A/C current on aluminum so we get the cleaning action that naturally occurs with Argon.

We can re-visit any questions. Reload with supply's. Ask any question's, let's burn up scrap AL first, before we work on your case 1/2. Besides, that bearing needs to come out.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

I understand the low cash flow. This a good time to "Gently", but completely clean your case 1/2. Use Acetone, or similar, to get all the oil out of the crack. Any contamination in the weld area will be disastrous. Clean, clean & clean are the first 3 rules. Did I forget to say "Clean"? lol
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Martin-vereert »

All crystal clear so far!! Your explanations are really easy to understand even for someone who is not a native english speaker. Hope this helps someone else as well, it surely does.
Dont know in the US but here acetone is a restricted substance (something about ilegal drugs production), not easy to find. Lincoln electric web suggests using a citrus-based degreaser.
About that bearing, its already out, same with the seals.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

I'm not a fan of the citrus degreaser idea because we need to get the oil out of the crack. We need something thinner than water that will seep through the crack to dissolve the oil. If Acetone is restricted, I'm sure MEK (methl ethl keytone) is also restricted. What do automotive mechanic's use to clean part's with in your area? I would prefer you use a clean solvent of some type that's thinner than water. Lacquer thinner, mineral spirits. What do auto/body paint shop's use in your area. After citrus degreasing the "whole part", position your case half on a bench. We want to use a solvent to weep through the crack and dissolve the oil. We can let gravity perform this task for us. Use small amount's of solvent at a time to work it's way through the crack. This process can take time, even day's, but the end result is what we need, as the aluminum must be free from ALL oil where the repair will take place.

Don't be tempted to use "JB Weld" or similar product's just yet. These can be used if all else fails. We have not failed yet, so don't use them. :naughty:
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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I hope this video helps/works for you. I know this guy. He is pretty good. He lives about 60 miles south from me. I tell him he's a movie star. lol

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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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No way im going to use JB weld yet haha.
We do use thinner for cleaning automotive parts, we also have some special products for that but they have a low flash point so i dont think its a good idea to use them since its going to be difficult to get it out of the crack?
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Thats an excellent youtube channel! I learned some basics of TIG welding by watching it some time back. Couldn't watch the video yet, im on my way to work but will do as soon as i arrive back home! :grin:
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Even rubbing alcohol can work. You will explore your option's. Low heat & time in an oven can evaporate, if you don't have a wife.
Have a good day.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Just watched the video, and probably like 5 more after that one. Really really useful and easy to follow.
Im concerned about the case warping, is this an issue with aluminum? Should i weld it with the 2 halves attached? Hope not because i dont have it at the moment.
Thank you for all the help you are giving me Molly.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

There should be no issues with warping on the repair, casting don't warp that I've ever seen. The flat plate aluminum your going to practice on may warp if it's thin.

How long is the crack? Work on your plans for stop drilling. Heat will cause the crack to move.
Last edited by Molly's 70 on 01:03 am Oct 28 2018, edited 1 time in total.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Sorry for taking so long to reply, i was at university and came back to finish removing stuff from the frame so i can give it some layers of paint, rust started working his magic in places where paint got pealed off.
Nice to hear warping its not that much of an issue, the crack is probably 5 cm long and stopped where a bearing sits so its not easy to stop drill it.
I will try uploading a picture of the half for you to see.
No luck with that Argon refill yet :cry:
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

Pictures are worth a thousand words. Thanks. That needle bearing needs to come out. The heat will not be friendly to it. I would weld the outside of the case. Your hardest spot will the radius where the ball bearing/output shaft transitions toward the input shaft boss. To help with that area, practice aluminum filet welds. Also, If you groove out the crack, it will help.
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

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Im still here!! You suggest only welding the outside of the case then? Should i make the groove only before welding to avoid any dirt getting in contact with the fresh material?
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Molly's 70 »

I would definitely start welding on the outside of the case first. I would groove the crack within 24 hours before welding, preferably just before. The reason is aluminum oxide will form again.


I have a question: In the picture of the inside of the case, it looks like rust in the output shaft bearing area. What is the orange/rust color?
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Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by Martin-vereert »

It does look like its really rusted in the photo but in reality its no way near that, dont know what caused that effect. The only thing covered in rust its the stator compartment, probably got full of water sometime and the previous owner didnt bother on getting it out. :neutral:
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Re: Kdx 200 E series crankcase compatibility

Post by KDXGarage »

I think there are steel inserts in the aluminum that are bearing holders. It looked like a little rust on that.
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