Started rewinding my stator

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 10:40 am Jun 10 2013

So yesterday morning I finally got around to getting my stator pulled apart to rewind it. After fighting the mounting screws I got the plate off. Someone must have replaced it in the past or tried to do a rewind because there was a zip tie around the wire on the coil. It was a little strange to say the least. Got the coil unwound and now I'm beginning the meticulous process of re-winding it. I noticed the coil does look slightly different wiring wise from the coil that's pictured in the how-to thread but I should be able to figure it out. Can't wait to get my new headlight installed and get this coil done!

sarrant · Post by **sarrant** » 03:30 pm Jun 10 2013

I actually think the zip tie is factory.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 05:38 pm Jun 10 2013

sarrant wrote:I actually think the zip tie is factory.

Yeah, I think so, too.

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 10:45 pm Jun 11 2013

Zip tie is stock.

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 10:45 am Jun 12 2013

Well that's good to know. Bad news though I finished up the rewind last night and installed the stator and I have no lights. I did have continuity from where I connected the yellow wire and the coil to the end of the yellow wire and I also had continuity from the other end of the coil wire to the yellow wire. I'll have to test at the yellow wire to see if I'm getting any sort of output from the stator. Hopefully I don't have to pull it apart again.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 03:23 pm Jun 12 2013

how did you solder up the new wire?
I would check those connections, the wire I used did not like solder, it had a coating that needed to be scraped off first

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 05:50 pm Jun 12 2013

Well I was able to do a quick test at lunch. I started the bike and unplugged the yellow wire closest to where it connects to the light switch. Using the ac voltage setting on my mutlimeter I got a reading around 10v at idle and was around 12-14v during revs. Since i'm getting ac voltage on the yellow wire I'm assuming that means the coil is indeed working. I've got new head and tail light coming tomorrow so when I'm installing those I'll hopefully eliminate whatever the problem is.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 06:13 pm Jun 12 2013

did you make sure the switch is in the "on" position?

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 07:16 pm Jun 12 2013

Haha yeah I did.

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 09:33 pm Jun 14 2013

Well I'm lost. Put my new rear fender on, started the bike and am still getting no lights at all. I have continuity between all the wires I should including the light switch. I am getting a ac voltage reading from the yellow wire on the stator. Looking in the manual I did the two resistance tests from the black to white/red and the yellow to black on the stator. On the latter I am get an OL reading or basically an open. I pulled the stator back off to see if anything was out of place. I have continuity from where I connected the yellow wire to my coil back the end of the yellow wire and have continuity from one side of the coil to the other. I also have continuity between the black wire and both sides of the coil. I get the feeling I am overlooking something simple. Since I'm getting an output from the stator I would assume that there isn't anything wrong there. Anyone have any ideas?

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 09:45 pm Jun 14 2013

bulbs good?

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 09:50 pm Jun 14 2013

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 12:33 am Jun 15 2013

Test the Cdi and that appears fine. I did ohm out the regulator and was getting some high numbers around the 29 million ohm mark sooo Im thinking I have a bad regulator. Not sure if this would cause my lights to quit all together. I would think it would just let the voltage spike and not control it. My head hurts so its time for sleep. Hopefully I can fix this soon.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 08:12 am Jun 15 2013

a bad voltage regulator (or a good one that is incorrectly wired up) will allow the voltage to spike and that will blow out your bulbs in a hurry

BUT you previously mentioned you read 10 volt at idle and 12-14 at revs
I would expect your readings to be at least double that at revs if the VR was no good

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 09:45 am Jun 15 2013

Well i'm not sure about that. Seeing as I unplugged the yellow connector at the light switch to obtain that reading, wouldn't that have eliminated the regulator from affecting the reading? The regulator doesn't tie into the yellow wire anywhere. It does however connect in parallel with the headlight and taillight off of the red wire. But even if the regulator had an open in it it shouldn't stop the voltage from reaching the bulbs since its not in series with them. I still think there is something small I must be overlooking. I wired up my new light/kill switch and x2 trail tech headlight last night along with the ufo rear fender. After I get home today maybe I'll bolt that stator back in and start it and see what happens. I only tested with the rear fender and old headlight hooked up last night, so maybe I had a bad connection somewhere in the old headlight circuit. Confusing.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 09:54 am Jun 15 2013

common sense dictates that the since the issue occurred after you rewired the stator the problem has to lie there
it just doesn't make any sense that a break in the wire magically appears 3 foot from where you were working

as for the VR, when you measure your output on the yellow wire where do you attach the black lead?
the VR hook up on the cold side of the headlight and im honoustly not sure how it all works but it seems that if you use the ground from the wiring loom the VR is in the loop

just for fun, hook the positive lead from the mulitmeter to the yellow wire and the black lead to a bare section of the frame
or disconnect the VR altogether and see what your read then

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 10:24 am Jun 15 2013

When I tested output I hooked onto the yellow wire with the positive and put the black lead on the cylinder wall. I'm wondering if maybe I need to start over on rewinding the stator. Even though I'm getting voltage maybe I'm losing it somewhere.

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 10:30 am Jun 15 2013

I forgot to mention that prior to the rewind my tail light stopped working. I broke the bulb while out riding (literally shattered it), and when I put a new one in it would not light. The headlight did still work at that time. Not sure if the two instances are connected but thought i'd throw it out there.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 01:35 pm Jun 15 2013

stock taillight?
is there a brake light attached aswell ?
and is that single or dual filament ?

I hate electrical
try testing the output with the multimeter in line ?

I doubt the stator isn't wound properly, there is power afterall, seems to me it wouldn't work at all if it wasn't good

90SDKDX · Post by **90SDKDX** » 02:05 pm Jun 15 2013

UFO taillight. Its a dual filament set up and I am running a brake switch on the rear. I do have continuity on either side of the brake switch so that shouldn't be faulty. Looking back on my days at the mickey mouse institute (MMI) I remember something in electrical class stating that when testing switches on a system that uses a/c voltage that switches such as the light switch should show an open when the switch is closed(pushed in) and it should show resistance when the switch is open (not pushed in). When I tested the light switch I had results that were opposite of this. Maybe the problem? Or am I just backwards in my thinking?

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