Headlight

This is for E series info...
GOT WOODS?
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Re: Headlight

Post by GOT WOODS? » 01:37 pm May 05 2019

<r><QUOTE author="ericr" post_id="201182" time="1556996531" user_id="15312"><s>
ericr wrote:
02:02 pm May 04 2019
</s>
I'm interested in doing this too, but don't know how it can work based upon how you have it wired. This rectifier has 4 wires - 2 for AC power and ground from the stator, and 2 for DC out and ground. You removed the stock voltage regulator and replaced it with the rectifier and capped off the DC out.<br/>
<br/>
The proper way to wire this is to disconnect the yellow stator wire and connect it to the yellow wire on the rectifier. Since the stator is internally grounded, you can connect the pink to ground. Connect red to the lighting circuit and green to ground. The Amazon listing says that this rectifier must be used with a battery to regulate voltage. I would wire a capacitor instead.<br/>
<br/>
Here's the wiring diagram that shows the yellow stator wire that would connect to a rectifier. Edit: Or even easier, if all you want is the headlight, just cut the black and red wires right at the headlight and splice the rectifier in. Splice in a capacitor on the DC wires to replace a battery.<br/>
<br/>
wiring.jpg
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

First off let me admit right up front that I am pretty useless at electrical theory. I can figure things out if I research and study them long enough but as far as explaining anything but the easiest of electrical circuits it just isn't going to happen. As to why I hooked it up that way, I cannot remember why I did it that way and I suspect it was that someone simply said to do it that way and I did, and it worked, so case closed and I moved on to something else. Looking at your wiring diagram and your notes your way should work, however for whatever reason my way seems to be working as well which makes me suspect that the current is somehow getting smoothed out just by virtue of being connected to the rectifier. Not something I could explain off of the top of my head, but it is somehow doing it as my LED headlight now works whereas it didn't before I wired it up. I didn't add a capacitor either and it doesn't seem to need one. This rectifier does have a built in regulator so maybe the combination of rectifier/regulator all makes it work somehow.<br/>
<br/>
Riding season doesn't start until Memorial day around here and when I can get out for a ride I am going to mess with the headlight/rectifier and take some notes regarding low idle performance to see if there is any flickering, etc. with my set up and then I am going to wire it up as you suggest and see if there is any noticeable difference anywhere along the rev range.<br/>
<br/>
Thanks for your input and if you find out the technical reasons why my way works I'd really be interested in knowing.<br/>
<br/>
Thanks,<br/>
Dennis</r>
2003 KDX200: Bone stock

2003 KDX 220:
Boyesen reeds
Gnarly Gold Series pipe
Turbine Core 2 silencer
Fat Bars
Super Sport IMS pegs
Cycra Probend hand guards
Tusk dualsport light kit
LED headlamp
Boyesen Factory Racing mag cover
Airbox snorkel removed
Wiesco piston and rings

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Kawboykid
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Re: Headlight

Post by Kawboykid » 10:41 am May 09 2019

Scottkdx1980, if you decide to go the pricey but easy OEM replacement route, RevZilla has the housing cheaper and the bulb the same price as previously linked

housing - https://www.revzilla.com/oem/kawasaki/k ... -head-lamp
bulb - https://www.revzilla.com/oem/kawasaki/k ... -12v-3030w

Plus they are running a promo code BUYPARTS for 10% off your first order of OEM parts

brademan76
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Re: Headlight

Post by brademan76 » 12:17 pm May 09 2019

great info guys, thank you both.

brademan76
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Re: Headlight

Post by brademan76 » 12:25 pm May 09 2019

ericr wrote:
02:02 pm May 04 2019
I'm interested in doing this too, but don't know how it can work based upon how you have it wired. This rectifier has 4 wires - 2 for AC power and ground from the stator, and 2 for DC out and ground. You removed the stock voltage regulator and replaced it with the rectifier and capped off the DC out.

The proper way to wire this is to disconnect the yellow stator wire and connect it to the yellow wire on the rectifier. Since the stator is internally grounded, you can connect the pink to ground. Connect red to the lighting circuit and green to ground. The Amazon listing says that this rectifier must be used with a battery to regulate voltage. I would wire a capacitor instead.

Here's the wiring diagram that shows the yellow stator wire that would connect to a rectifier. Edit: Or even easier, if all you want is the headlight, just cut the black and red wires right at the headlight and splice the rectifier in. Splice in a capacitor on the DC wires to replace a battery.

wiring.jpg
Can you explain exactly what you mean by splicing in a capacitor? Where exactly would you splice it in? What size, etc?

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ericr
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Re: Headlight

Post by ericr » 06:26 pm May 09 2019

Here's a video that shows how to use a capacitor with a rectifier. I think he uses a 50 volt, 28000 uf capacitor.

'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220 - My restoration thread... viewtopic.php?f=77&t=22266

Dan 250sr
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Re: Headlight

Post by Dan 250sr » 10:46 am May 10 2019

I haven't read through all of this but klr uses same headlight or klx. Sure klr.. I bought brand new lens for my kdx 250 . Lens was advertised for klr. I have still got the box somewhere if you need part number

GOT WOODS?
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Re: Headlight

Post by GOT WOODS? » 02:12 pm Jun 02 2019

ericr wrote:
02:02 pm May 04 2019
I'm interested in doing this too, but don't know how it can work based upon how you have it wired. This rectifier has 4 wires - 2 for AC power and ground from the stator, and 2 for DC out and ground. You removed the stock voltage regulator and replaced it with the rectifier and capped off the DC out.

The proper way to wire this is to disconnect the yellow stator wire and connect it to the yellow wire on the rectifier. Since the stator is internally grounded, you can connect the pink to ground. Connect red to the lighting circuit and green to ground. The Amazon listing says that this rectifier must be used with a battery to regulate voltage. I would wire a capacitor instead.

Here's the wiring diagram that shows the yellow stator wire that would connect to a rectifier. Edit: Or even easier, if all you want is the headlight, just cut the black and red wires right at the headlight and splice the rectifier in. Splice in a capacitor on the DC wires to replace a battery.

wiring.jpg

So I finally got out for my first ride of the year and paid attention to the headlight. I don't get any flicker unless the motor is idling at it's very lowest. That being said, I'm going to try to tweak this issue out. Ericr, did you ever do this headlight mod? If so, how did it work for you?

Further notes on the Tusk dualsport kit:
- Some of the wires are really flimsy and I worry about future wear over time.
- Had a bad connection somewhere keeping all the electricals from working. Jiggling all the wires made them come back on but could not isolate the exact wire at issue. Everything had been working, this was after a wash so it makes me concerned that puddles are possibly going to be problematic.
- Tusk needs to make the front headlight brake wire longer. It is too short to work on long rebound forks. I had to add a longer length of wire to get it to not rip itself apart.
-The rear brake switch won't install without modification. I just mounted the switch to the front caliper instead and lengthened the wires as noted above, plus if I am braking it is rare that I am not using the front brake anyway.

Other than that and the battery dying prematurely, so far so good. I will see how long the new battery lasts.....
2003 KDX200: Bone stock

2003 KDX 220:
Boyesen reeds
Gnarly Gold Series pipe
Turbine Core 2 silencer
Fat Bars
Super Sport IMS pegs
Cycra Probend hand guards
Tusk dualsport light kit
LED headlamp
Boyesen Factory Racing mag cover
Airbox snorkel removed
Wiesco piston and rings

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