Wheely in the woods

Have a question about technique?
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svtman79
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Wheely in the woods

Post by svtman79 »

Which technique do you guys prefer to do a wheely in the woods. I tend to just crack the throttle in second.Sometimes I pull back and sometimes I don't. This doesn't always work. I have seen some guys rev a little then dump the clutch. I tried this once and ended up dragging my fender a few feet. I am very new to riding my KDX220. I have only had it a few weeks, but I am interested in this because where I have to ride there is a lot of holes and water. I want to be able to keep my front in up when I have to. I swapped out the front sprocket for a 12 tooth. I am getting ready to buy a pipe next. I will get reeds next. Hopefully by the end of the year I can get the RB mods done. So what do you guys think?
Ryan Z
1999 KDX220
FMF Gnarly Desert
Boyesen 607's
Air Box Mod with No Toil Filter
12 tooth front sprocket
Jimmy Button Bars
Tusk Bark Busters
.42 kg Racetech springs
Maier MX fender
bronco95tgp
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Post by bronco95tgp »

What works for me is standing up on the pegs and pre loading the front forks before I get to the mud hole and gas the wheel up with the fork rebound then stay in the gas. I never use the clutch to wheelie in that situation. I may be missing out on a better technique but thats how I do it. I'm here to learn too.

Don't forget to cover the rear brake.

A lot of the members of this forum's bikes you just crack the gas and hold on. It sounds like you are well on your way to building one too.
its a '04 KDX 220 cadillac
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Varmint
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Post by Varmint »

I never use the clutch technique for fear of ending up on my arse. :butthead: I can ride a wheely on a mountain bike for hundreds of feet (no BS... I've gone around a block a few times!) but have not been able to transfer that skill to my KDX (too much to lose if I dump it!)

With a nicely tuned KDX, a twist of the throttle will get the job done. Mine does... whether I want it to or not!
In my garage
2003 KDX200
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svtman79
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Wheely in the woods

Post by svtman79 »

Yeah I rode BMX and MTB for a long time. I had no problem jumping or wheelying either of those. For some reason on my KDX I have problems. I am ok with cracking the throttle for a sec, but it doesn't last long before I get nervous. This technique did not work real well in the mud two weeks ago. I hit a 2 foot deep puddle and ate it. That is why I am looking for some help.
Ryan Z
1999 KDX220
FMF Gnarly Desert
Boyesen 607's
Air Box Mod with No Toil Filter
12 tooth front sprocket
Jimmy Button Bars
Tusk Bark Busters
.42 kg Racetech springs
Maier MX fender
BobbyZ
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Post by BobbyZ »

there are a few things to learning to wheelie but here it goes.

1.find a open feild with good traction........not the woods

2.buy a spare back fender as you'll probably need it very soon :shock:

3.bring a friend along to encourage,make fun of you etc and if need be call a whambulance because your but is going to get bruised :butthead:

and last but not least troll you tube from work on mx skill vids

oh and when you go to practice an extra pair of shorts or 2 under your gear will take some of the smack out of falling on your ass.


and as my friend who used to be a nat pro level 125 rider would say"you got to learn to eat some **** before you learn to ride like you are the ****"
:rolleyes:
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

Nice quote!
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
sr5bidder
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Post by sr5bidder »

I use proper gear selection and throttle control, letting off the throttle just before punching it seems to help with my bike. I never try to get the front end up more than to just clear the far end of the mud hole
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Hey Bill, good to see you at KDXRider!!

After the rebuild, I can get the front up with throttle alone in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Before the top end I had to dump the clutch. Much more controlled using throttle and weight position alone. Weighting the front forks just before you try to get the front end really helps. The forks rebounding action will help pull the front end up more gently.
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

Learn to ride with two left fingers on the clutch all the time, the other two holding on. This is useful in lots of situations. Also, when hanging a tire, keep rear brake foot in ready position...Just stab it to control pitch.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
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kawagumby
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Post by kawagumby »

To bring up the front wheel (not some styling wheelie) to clear stuff on the trails, I keep a centered position, ass off or barely on the seat, gas it, and let the bars come up and towards my chest, with my weight shifting entirely onto the pegs on which I pivot. If the bike comes up a little high, you'll be in good position to thottle off gently, lean forward over the bars, or hit the rear brake as fuzzy mentioned - you can't do that if you're not on the pegs. You don't get that "out of control, sliding back" feeling if you are using the pegs and or lower legs to grip the bike. You can usually handle an inadvertent wheel hit best with the upright body position, bent elbows, head forward. Also, if the back end doesn't clear, sitting on the seat will likely give you the gift of flight.
With low speed stuff you have less momentum, so you need to be more expressive with your maneuvers , higher speed stuff is a bit more finesse, IMO, and practice will have you lofting the front end barely over obstacles like stutters, shallow water, etc., for good distances.
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
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