throttle control

[jbroom]

i've been racing roadbikes for the past 4 or 5 years (purpose built racing bikes, and supermoto conversions), and have a pretty good handle on throttle control in general. road racing is pretty predictable as far as body position goes. you move around a lot, but its smooth, controlled and usually expected.

the problem i'm having is keeping a steady throttle when i'm in trouble, clearing an obsitcle or accelerating. i understand and try to practice the principle of leading your bike (leaning foward) so that you're not just hanging on for dear life all the time, but i don't have the best handle on the KDX yet, and its power is getting me in trouble every now and then.

for example: this weekend i was riding some muddy single track. i came up to a 5 or 6" thick log that was at about 30º angle across the track. i tried to float my front tire over it, but i caught it and got crossed up. somehow in the process of recovering i grabbed a handfull of throttle, semi recovered, then got a handful again! thus sealing my fate... putting me in the brush straight into a tree and over the bars.. thank god for chest protectors.

I'm trying to stay forward on the bike, keep my wrist pretty level with my arm so i'm not chicken winging it... etc.... any advice on how to improve this issue? i'm sure it'll get better with time, but i'm almost wondering if i should have gotten a slightly less powerful bike to learn on for a year.

[Jeb]

What do you have in that 220? I think I remember your post where you presented the same "issue" and you're stock with some improved jetting, right? Did you clean the carb out really well? That could be an issue if your throttle response is unpredictable.

Are you standing when you run into these predicaments? While the stock 220 is about as smooth with power delivery as a modern two-stroke will come, they have some solid torque. I'm always trying to stand when I can and if I'm standing and I goose the throttle good and I'm not ready she'll want to leave me behind.

I haven't a clue about riding purpose-built road race bikes, but it helps to grip the bike between your knees/legs. ESPECIALLY if you're standing while you riding. If you're gripping really tightly with your hands, you may just be making your arms tired and that's where you might make mistakes.

My opinion - I doubt you bought too powerful a bike . . . put in some more seat time - and use those legs for gripping - and you'll likely not only get the hang of it but you'll be moddin' that beaut of a KDX!!

[jbroom]

i haven't done anything to it other than the airbox and the jetting. i'm not concerned about it being too powerful as much as the easier learning curve a smaller bike might create.

i stand as often as possible, and the power delivery is strong. i think it just gets me off guard sometimes. i'm sure i'll get the hang of it if i can get some more seat time (things have been busy). i was just wondering if there was some technique that i was missing.


hopefully i can get out again soon and see more improvement. i hope to do some enduro racing this summer. i wanted to do some of the winter series, but couldn't get enough time on the bike to feel comfortable enough.

thanks,
Jon

[Jeb]

i stand as often as possible, and the power delivery is strong. i think it just gets me off guard sometimes . . .

There's only 2 two-stroke bikes that I've ridden to date that as well as I can remember have as good or better low end pull than the 220: A GasGas 250 (as good) and a KTM 300 (a bit stouter). I've tested a few 250 mxer's that were very powerful when the hit came but seemed to lack just a bit on the low end compared to my modded 220 (a heavier flywheel and a torque-profile pipe on one of those 250s would likely change that though)

And if you think your bike has good power now, get the hang of it then bolt on an FMF Gnarly Rev (desert) pipe . . .

and that's just the beginning!

[2001kdx]

Who needs low-end? Downshift like you're supposed to.....

[Wudscrasher]

I've found I can control the super-torque of my 220 by learning how to slip the clutch. Used in the right circumstances, you'll find you can control all the power using your left hand instead of your right. Just Google it, I don't have time to explain what it is as I'm at work, but once to get the hang of it, you won't worry what your right hand is doing all the time. Trust me.

[fuzzy]

Quite true

[scheckaet]

what if you have a "lazyclutch"? (also known as the "autoclutch")

[Indawoods]

Autoclutch won't help whiskey throttle....

[scheckaet]

I'm more of a vodka kinda guy anyway
More seriously, I agree with wudscrasher, modulate the power delivery with your clutch. I actually ride with 1 finger on the clutch all the time, really usefull for the times a tree decides to jump in front of me

[canyncarvr]

Who needs low-end? Downshift like you're supposed to.....

Even you know that power delivery (there when you need it) at a lower RPM in a higher gear is NOT the same as the same speed in a lower gear and higher RPM. Downshifting is often the wrong thing to do.



I think experience will get you where you need to be, jb. After a few unexpected trips into the trees you will loosen that RH grip. The reaction you don't want is to HANG ON when things go south. In most cases you need to LET GO.

I cradle the bar in the crook of my thumb and palm..don't really 'hang on' at all. For one..you need a finger or two for brake/clutch...for two, fighting the bike with a grip on the bars is just going to wear you out.

If your suspension is doing its job..you don't need to manhandle the front-end to do anything, just point it and go.

..and don't react with a death grip to bad situations. You should be thinking of 'tuck and roll' about then...not meeting mother earth with an outstretched hand (that breaks things), and NOT holding onto the bike.

A wet (you mentioned mud) wooden thing at 30º to your line of travel is generally going to ground you anyway. Floating the front (as you said) and letting the bike pull the rear over (no throttle..at least reduced throttle) may still get you in the weeds. A given I s'pose..but try to increase that angle to as close to 90º as you can on your approach.

[jbroom]

thanks canyncarvr.

the second time i crossed that log i did it much slower and straitened out my line so that i was at 90º and just rolled over it... no problem

i seem to have pretty good natural reactions when falling. only things i usually end up breaking are collar bones, ribs and tail bones. its just the grip on the throttle thats messing me up. i'll get the hang of it.

[canyncarvr]

Yes..you will. And have a lot of fun doing it, too!!

Lots of times..those sticks are just going to get 'ya. I've had roots an inch in diameter (some less) dump me so fast I had no chance to do anything but hit the ground akimbo.

Good riding to 'ya!

[krazyinski]

well I know all about the right handed launch, after switching from the kdx to the kx 250, I managed to learn quick hold with the knees and shift up a gear in the mud. I still manage to launch my self into the trees on occasion.

[fuzzy]

Remember, pulling in clutch will kill power delivery every time. No need to worry about dead-revving a 2-cycle for a second either.

[canyncarvr]

Remember, pulling in clutch will kill power delivery every time.

Scenario: Bike is jerked, pulled, drops from under you. Response: Grab things. A split second before you biff it, the clutch is pulled, the throttle is yanked, the bike is screaming.

THEN you're off the bike..the clutch is released..the revs engage...bike goes bye-bye.

...and it might go a l-o-n-g way down, too!

Oooops......

[Jeb]

I agree with CC and fuzz . . . I don't use the clutch to modulate power unless I'm moving at a snails pace or get stuck on a hill.

Then again - and here I go again - I LOVE that 2-stroke boom, ESPECIALLY on the KDX because it's reasonable, just enough to catch you off guard from time to time to remind you that there IS some great performance in these machines . . .

Here's to MOH POWER!!!

[RyanV]

Who needs low-end? Downshift like you're supposed to.....

I think experience will get you where you need to be, jb. After a few unexpected trips into the trees you will loosen that RH grip. The reaction you don't want is to HANG ON when things go south. In most cases you need to LET GO.

I think it takes a certain level of experience to be able to release that death grip. It's something that you have to think about while basically losing control of the situation/bike..If you can bail out...the bike will die and fall over which is better than hitting that tree or bush while on the bike...and damn that can hurt