KDXRIDER.NET

I have never even checked the sag. Been on my to-do list since reading the forum. I’m gonna bet it’s way off but will check.

Setting your sag is the single most important adjustment to make on any suspension. You would be surprised of how many weird front end issues are solved by proper rear sag.

Finally checked my sag. Long overdue. But helps explain why this bike has been such a treat to ride. It was spot on: 100mm race / 19mm static. I bet static was bout perfect when I bought the bike & I need to loose the COVID 19 that crept back on since last turkey day.
Pleas note that this perfect race sag number was attained because the spring was set to auto-adjust.

I also checked the dif in fork length from top to axle:
KX-950mm / KDX-915mm. So 34mm matches for the more KDX feel in tight stuff
Doak, are you running risers? (I’ll go back and look at your pics).
Max I can get now is 17mm, without hitting the fork nuts on the bars. I did get a nice set of low bars with this “kit”. So think I’ll maybe try them with a small spacer lift.

Auto adjust, ha ha! Time for a stiffer spring.

Dear KDXG, would you guess the original has just lost some sproing over 25yrs, and I should replace with new stock... or would aftermarket be the way to go.
I am rolling about 205-210 in gear, now.

Aftermarket is what you need. I would probably go Racetech.

Re the bar risers, I had to add an adapter to fit theFlexx Bars and they add about 1/2 inch or so I think. That adapter gave me the room I needed to raise the forks.

Goat, lose weight or buy a 5.2. :-)

On my '90 KDX with '96 KX125 forks I used some Tusk 1/2" bar risers. That gave me the clearance I needed.

Cool! I’ll grab some tusks and go on a diet. Maybe just peruse the Racetech “husky” department, even though I’m sure that’s just for the fat kids and couldn’t be me.
Next:
eventually I’ll need to put new seals in these forks. Is bushing kit necessary/recommended while I have them apart, if I am just trying to stop weeping? I am not necessarily looking to change the performance, yet.

Check the bushings. Pretty much guaranteed to need them, as removal can dmage. Also, if they are 23 years old, then ... there ya go.

Ya, I suspect I knew the answer but was reaching.
Based on your “paying hobby” Do you have a recommended tooling list for the job?
I don’t think there’s a Harbor Freight of fork repair. But I probably will do this 2-3 times, ever. Unless it turns out as intriguing.

I looked back in the thread. Forks are 2000. Wheel is 1997. My bad.

Read up on o-ring replacement with a small spring on the midvalve for, I think, 1999 and 2000.

list for bushings and seals?

spring holder
rod puller
seal driver
seal bullet

Substitute versions have been discussed in some fairly recent threads. wrench for spring holder, wire for rod puller, PVC homemade seal driver, plastic bag for seal bullet

viewtopic.php?f=104&t=478

Thank you!

PS. Wheel is now back to KDX with RB axle. Since 97 doesn’t mate with 2000 forks.

Ah! Good job.

I made my damper today holding took with a piece of pvc and a dremel. The hard part is knowing what shape you need to cut. Super redneck, but it works. I even had enough pvc left to make a spare. Fork seal driver out of really hard cardboard or pvc as well.

Well I managed to hurt myself in the back yard. Forgot one of the cardinal rules: If you know it’s gone, just let go. Cracked, popped, or bruised ribs. Not sure which.
Anyway it was good time to fix the leaky fork seals.
I went to the pro, rather than tool-up. We have a suspension shop “Moto Pro Suspension” within local area.
How does $190 + parts sound for fork service?
Total = $287 with seals, wipers & tax.
He said bushings all looked good and advised the KX125 forks will perform pretty well as dual purpose, if I am looking to do both Gnar and MX track with the same setup.

OUCH!! Ribs hurt!!

No revalve and he said they would work well for both??