Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

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'03KDX200
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Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

Hello again forum. I'm going through this 2003 KDX200 that I just bought, and I want to do a fork oil change and the Shim Stack Mod. When I read through the KDX 200 shop manual on the process of changing the oil, there's quite a few special tools they want me to buy. Some things I know I don't really need. I like to save money by not buying every tool in the world, but I also appreciate not spending an extra several hours doing things the wrong way, so I don't mind buying a special tool or two either, when required. I want to ask you if these following tools are a total waste of money:

1) Fork spring holder #57001-1286
2) Fork Piston Rod Puller #57001-1298
3) Fork Outer Tube Weight #57001-1218
4) Hook Wrench #57001-1101
5) Oil Seal & Bearing Remover #57001-1058
6) Bearing Driver Set #57001-1129

I've found a lot of different videos on YouTube but they are all for some other bike and no one mentions any of these tools, and I have yet to find any step-by-step write-ups on rightside-up fork oil changes with pictures.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by bufftester »

The only special tool I have used is the motion pro seal driver. Everything else for a full fork tear down can be done with hand tools and an impact wrench.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by decluk13 »

You can also easily make some of the tools if you are handy with a welder and have some hardware and lengths of pipe.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

'03KDX200 wrote: 07:41 pm Mar 04 2020 Hello again forum. I'm going through this 2003 KDX200 that I just bought, and I want to do a fork oil change and the Shim Stack Mod. When I read through the KDX 200 shop manual on the process of changing the oil, there's quite a few special tools they want me to buy. Some things I know I don't really need. I like to save money by not buying every tool in the world, but I also appreciate not spending an extra several hours doing things the wrong way, so I don't mind buying a special tool or two either, when required. I want to ask you if these following tools are a total waste of money:

1) Fork spring holder #57001-1286
2) Fork Piston Rod Puller #57001-1298
3) Fork Outer Tube Weight #57001-1218
4) Hook Wrench #57001-1101
5) Oil Seal & Bearing Remover #57001-1058
6) Bearing Driver Set #57001-1129

I've found a lot of different videos on YouTube but they are all for some other bike and no one mentions any of these tools, and I have yet to find any step-by-step write-ups on rightside-up fork oil changes with pictures.
Congratulations. You have found that ONE GUY. I own every one of those. :mrgreen: :lol: Also, I used to work on other members' suspension on this site (LONG time ago) :supz:

I will give an opinion on each as it relates to your post.

1) Fork spring holder #57001-1286 (you can get by without it, I think a 16 mm open end wrench will do it, quicker and easier with the OEM or aftermarket tool)
2) Fork Piston Rod Puller #57001-1298 (you could get by without it, but the OEM tool or an aftermarket one makes it easier and neater)
3) Fork Outer Tube Weight #57001-1218 (NOT NEEDED)
4) Hook Wrench #57001-1101 (NOT NEEDED)
5) Oil Seal & Bearing Remover #57001-1058 (NOT NEEDED)
6) Bearing Driver Set #57001-1129 (NOT NEEDED)

Again, that was JUST for you and your fork oil change, not ANY generalization.

I last worked on some similar forks (KLX300R) last fall. For me, the tools that come to mind are:

rod puller (57001-1298)
fork spring holder (57001-1286)
Also, the cartridge holder tool. The OEM tool is discontinued, but hopefully Jeff Fredette still sells his tool, which I own and is great.
14 mm hex bit for the base valve assembly at the bottom

The cartridge holder tool is used to keep the cartridge from spinning during removal AND reassembly. It helps when tightening the base valve to the proper torque value. Otherwise, broom stick, trying to use the spring to keep it from spinning and other methods kinda work, but not nearly as easily or accurately.

The 14 mm hex bit tool is used to remove and install the base valve assembly.

Buy some Walmart brake cleaner to clean the parts since it is watery and not too strong. A final rinse with Brakleen or even better, Maxima Suspension Clean is great.

The tops of the base valves have the nut on top. It is peened over. One MUST file down the top a little before loosening the nuts. Feel free to read through some old threads where people snapped them off. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! :naughty:

Torque to 25 inch-pounds, using blue Loctite.
Be mindful of how the washers stack up. Just do one at a time. If something goes wrong, you can then look at the other one to compare.

Before removing your fork tubes from the triple clamps, loosen the upper clamp bolts, then loosen the fork top caps, then loosen the lower triple clamp bolts and remove the forks.

I use some o-ring grease on the o-rings before installing. Don't put them in dry.

Blue Loctite on the base valve when installing, torque value is in the OEM manual.

Check your preload when you have it apart.

Sorry to babble! Feel free to ask questions.

Here's my favorite fork oil and suggestion:
KYB Fork Oil.jpg
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by kdxsully »

You really own all of the tools? Even the fork tube weight? NERD!
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

:busted: SUPER NERD!

I have never used that weight. Over 12 years ago, I bought a single lot of special tools from a dealer that went out of business. It was in the lot. I bought three or four new "Special Tools" in 1989 or so. I was out of bikes for a while, then got back into it and eventually figured out to start buying them when I could. I like collecting them, even if I don't use all of them. Again, SUPER NERD. :razz:

(after a pause of a few minutes) Somehow, while typing that up to reply to kdxsully, it occurred to me to go do a check on eBay for Kawasaki special tools. I found something and bought it. If it shows up, then I will have had a hell of a deal thanks to kdxsully. :partyman: :prayer:

It had been on there for over 6 days. :hmm:
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

Just for kdxsully: :lol:

1) Fork spring holder #57001-1286 (and the Race Tech one)
2) Fork Piston Rod Puller #57001-1298 (I also have a homemade 10 mm I bought and I have the 12 mm OEM one)
3) Fork Outer Tube Weight #57001-1218
4) Hook Wrench #57001-1101 (two sets)
5) Oil Seal & Bearing Remover #57001-1058 (plus a Kowa Seiki set and the Tusk set)
6) Bearing Driver Set #57001-1129 (two OEM sets)

:busted: :lol:
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by SS109 »

kdxsully wrote: 06:40 am Mar 05 2020 You really own all of the tools? Even the fork tube weight? NERD!
I think that's more like super nerd! :lol:
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by kdxsully »

SS109 wrote: 10:48 am Mar 05 2020
kdxsully wrote: 06:40 am Mar 05 2020 You really own all of the tools? Even the fork tube weight? NERD!
I think that's more like super nerd! :lol:
Well if he’s collecting them, that’s different imo

Still nerdy.


My fork seal driver? A thick and rigid piece of cardboard. From shipping Saran wrap. A glorified toilet paper tube basically.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

KDXGarage wrote: 09:05 pm Mar 04 2020
Congratulations. You have found that ONE GUY. I own every one of those. :mrgreen: :lol: Also, I used to work on other members' suspension on this site (LONG time ago) :supz:

I will give an opinion on each as it relates to your post.

1) Fork spring holder #57001-1286 (you can get by without it, I think a 16 mm open end wrench will do it, quicker and easier with the OEM or aftermarket tool)
2) Fork Piston Rod Puller #57001-1298 (you could get by without it, but the OEM tool or an aftermarket one makes it easier and neater)
3) Fork Outer Tube Weight #57001-1218 (NOT NEEDED)
4) Hook Wrench #57001-1101 (NOT NEEDED)
5) Oil Seal & Bearing Remover #57001-1058 (NOT NEEDED)
6) Bearing Driver Set #57001-1129 (NOT NEEDED)

Again, that was JUST for you and your fork oil change, not ANY generalization.

I last worked on some similar forks (KLX300R) last fall. For me, the tools that come to mind are:

rod puller (57001-1298)
fork spring holder (57001-1286)
Also, the cartridge holder tool. The OEM tool is discontinued, but hopefully Jeff Fredette still sells his tool, which I own and is great.
14 mm hex bit for the base valve assembly at the bottom

The cartridge holder tool is used to keep the cartridge from spinning during removal AND reassembly. It helps when tightening the base valve to the proper torque value. Otherwise, broom stick, trying to use the spring to keep it from spinning and other methods kinda work, but not nearly as easily or accurately.

The tops of the base valves have the nut on top. It is peened over. One MUST file down the top a little before loosening the nuts. Feel free to read through some old threads where people snapped them off. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! :naughty:

Check your preload when you have it apart.
What a great answer to my question, THANK YOU!!!! lol you're right I did end up finding "the Guy" on this subject, since you have all these tools. This is EXACTLY the detailed information I was looking for. You even broke it down according the my numbered list of stuff, lol, nice.

So I do have a couple questions though:

1) You mentioned checking the preload. How do you check the preload when you have it apart? For all I know a previous owner may have already replaced the soft stock springs with stiffer ones, so I was thinking it would be neat if I could measure the actual kg/mm figure of the spring while I have the fork apart. I have absolutely no idea how to do that though.

2) The rod puller tool. Why does one need a tool to pull a rod anyways? Why can't you just grab it with your hand and pull it? When I look up pictures of this rod puller online it just looks like a rod the same diameter as the damping rod, that's threaded on one end, lol, how does that help anyone? If the rod really is that hard to pull for some reason, can you just put a soft-mouthed locking pliers on it to get a grip on it?

3) The cartridge holder tool. Speaking of soft-mouthed locking pliers, do you think these wide-mouth vice grips will work to hold the cartridge, with some rubber or leather in the jaws to grip and protect the metal?
Locking pliers.JPG
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

decluk13 wrote: 09:04 pm Mar 04 2020 You can also easily make some of the tools if you are handy with a welder and have some hardware and lengths of pipe.
Unfortunately I don't have access to any welding equipment.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

bufftester wrote: 07:53 pm Mar 04 2020 The only special tool I have used is the motion pro seal driver. Everything else for a full fork tear down can be done with hand tools and an impact wrench.
I don't have an impact wrench or any air tools :(
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by kdxsully »

With a little luck, if you leave the cap in and loosen the bottom nut and it’ll come loose. Most people aren’t that lucky. Plan on needing the damper rod holder or an impact.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by doakley »

You can make your own damper rod holder tool. Search this site for instructions.
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

'03KDX200 wrote: 06:14 pm Mar 05 2020 What a great answer to my question, THANK YOU!!!! lol you're right I did end up finding "the Guy" on this subject, since you have all these tools. This is EXACTLY the detailed information I was looking for. You even broke it down according the my numbered list of stuff, lol, nice.

So I do have a couple questions though:

1) You mentioned checking the preload. How do you check the preload when you have it apart? For all I know a previous owner may have already replaced the soft stock springs with stiffer ones, so I was thinking it would be neat if I could measure the actual kg/mm figure of the spring while I have the fork apart. I have absolutely no idea how to do that though.
Hold the chrome tube so the bottom portion fully extends downward.
Put in all the washers, spring, spacer tubes, etc.
Check the portion of the cap that touches the top of the fork tube. Measure the height between the part that touches the fork tube to the inner portion of the cap that touches the top of the washer / spring / spacer. That is going to add height to the parts inside the tube. If there was zero mm of preload, when fully tightened, the bottom of the cap would barely touch the top of the spring/spacer/washer. If there was less than zero, they wouldn't even touch and the inner parts would rattle around. When preload is added, it will compress the spring a certain number of millimeters. From what I have read in the past few years, 3 or 4 mm is pretty normal for off-road. "Very little" preload seems to be popular of late. Stiffer springs with very little preload is popular now. Years ago, soft springs with more preload seemed to be normal. I think the 1995+ USA KDX200 / KDX220R came with 38 mm of preload (could have been 28, but I think 38). I once measured a 1991 - 1994 (can't remember which year the guy had) as 10 mm of preload stock. Some guy had an Excel sheet that calculated movement of the spring, rate and preload effects. A .38 with normal preload was initially softer than the stock .35 in a 1995+ KDX due to the minimal preload, but was stiffer later due to the rate being stiffer.
'03KDX200 wrote: 06:14 pm Mar 05 2020 2) The rod puller tool. Why does one need a tool to pull a rod anyways? Why can't you just grab it with your hand and pull it? When I look up pictures of this rod puller online it just looks like a rod the same diameter as the damping rod, that's threaded on one end, lol, how does that help anyone? If the rod really is that hard to pull for some reason, can you just put a soft-mouthed locking pliers on it to get a grip on it?
The bottom of the cap attaches to the rod with a lock nut. One has to pull the spring down and hold it in place (the spring puller / blade tool shown in the manual), then take the cap off. Once the cap is off, the spring can then come off. Skip ahead to when the new oil is put in. The rod has to be cycled to bleed the air out. That is easier with rod puller installed. After the cartridge is bled, the spring / spacer / washers are put on. Where's the rod?? WAY down inside the spring, UNLESS, you have the rod puller installed. Grabbing it with your hand is going to be messy, plus take a long time. A rod puller is just a tube with the inside tapped to the correct dimensions or a nut welded on the end. The OEM I have is threaded on the inside. The home made one I bought has a 10 mm x 1.0 mm nut welded on the end.
'03KDX200 wrote: 06:14 pm Mar 05 2020 3) The cartridge holder tool. Speaking of soft-mouthed locking pliers, do you think these wide-mouth vice grips will work to hold the cartridge, with some rubber or leather in the jaws to grip and protect the metal?
Locking pliers.JPG
That won't work.
The cartridge holding tool is basically a tube with a nut on the end. The hollow tube goes over the rod. The nut fits down into a hex portion that is about 27 mm. It keeps the cartridge from spinning when the base valve assembly is being removed or installed. Please do not use air tools to remove the aluminum base valve assembly from the aluminum cartridge. This is not an axle nut on a farm tractor. :grin:
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

KDXGarage wrote: 11:57 pm Mar 05 2020 Hold the chrome tube so the bottom portion fully extends downward.
Put in all the washers, spring, spacer tubes, etc.
Check the portion of the cap that touches the top of the fork tube. Measure the height between the part that touches the fork tube to the inner portion of the cap that touches the top of the washer / spring / spacer. That is going to add height to the parts inside the tube. If there was zero mm of preload, when fully tightened, the bottom of the cap would barely touch the top of the spring/spacer/washer. If there was less than zero, they wouldn't even touch and the inner parts would rattle around. When preload is added, it will compress the spring a certain number of millimeters. From what I have read in the past few years, 3 or 4 mm is pretty normal for off-road. "Very little" preload seems to be popular of late. Stiffer springs with very little preload is popular now. Years ago, soft springs with more preload seemed to be normal. I think the 1995+ USA KDX200 / KDX220R came with 38 mm of preload (could have been 28, but I think 38). I once measured a 1991 - 1994 (can't remember which year the guy had) as 10 mm of preload stock. Some guy had an Excel sheet that calculated movement of the spring, rate and preload effects. A .38 with normal preload was initially softer than the stock .35 in a 1995+ KDX due to the minimal preload, but was stiffer later due to the rate being stiffer.
This is great info! Also explains why I've been seeing wildly different preload spacer measurements for different bikes. You explained it pretty well and now I think I get how to dial i a little preload, as needed.
'03KDX200 wrote: 06:14 pm Mar 05 2020 The bottom of the cap attaches to the rod with a lock nut. One has to pull the spring down and hold it in place (the spring puller / blade tool shown in the manual), then take the cap off. Once the cap is off, the spring can then come off. Skip ahead to when the new oil is put in. The rod has to be cycled to bleed the air out. That is easier with rod puller installed. After the cartridge is bled, the spring / spacer / washers are put on. Where's the rod?? WAY down inside the spring, UNLESS, you have the rod puller installed. Grabbing it with your hand is going to be messy, plus take a long time. A rod puller is just a tube with the inside tapped to the correct dimensions or a nut welded on the end. The OEM I have is threaded on the inside. The home made one I bought has a 10 mm x 1.0 mm nut welded on the end.
Ah, ok I see. All of that makes sense now. Ok, I give up, I need to buy a tool for that after all, lol. Ok I found a "Motion Pro 5-In-1 Damper Rod Bleed Tool" on Amazon for $26, I'll just buy that one, that's pretty cheap and good quality. It says in the description that it has an adapter for a 10x1 threaded damper rod so sounds like it will work. I took a picture of it just for fun, so you can give your Tool-Demigod Stamp of Approval :)
Motion Pro Damper Rod Bleed Tool.JPG
Motion Pro Damper Rod Bleed Tool.JPG (97.84 KiB) Viewed 22472 times
'03KDX200 wrote: 06:14 pm Mar 05 2020 That won't work.
The cartridge holding tool is basically a tube with a nut on the end. The hollow tube goes over the rod. The nut fits down into a hex portion that is about 27 mm. It keeps the cartridge from spinning when the base valve assembly is being removed or installed. Please do not use air tools to remove the aluminum base valve assembly from the aluminum cartridge. This is not an axle nut on a farm tractor. :grin:
Ok that makes sense to me now too. This is a wacky-looking tool that I've never seen before. I did a search and found another thread on this forum that tells you how to make one that will probably work perfectly, and looks totally easy and cheap to make. No welding required ;) Although I wish people would embed the pictures they're going to use in a thread, instead of relying on links to his pictures online, which of course become broken links after a few years. :( But here's that thread in case anyone else is interested. Looks like he's covered all his bases here. viewtopic.php?t=15393
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

A cheap option you might try is to get a metal wire and wrap it around the threads at the top of the rod. Just bend it so it goes up through the spring.

Otherwise, I think the Motion Pro shown would be a great tool. It has adapters to make it fit five sizes, so if you ever switch to KX forks or get a different bike, it could be used on those.

Here's a picture I took years ago of some 1996 KDX200 forks.

Look at the row of parts next to the bottom row. Count to the sixth part. It is two to the right of a big black o-ring. One has to put a hex into that piece. It has to be on the end of a hollow rod, as the metal rod above the pictured part is in the way. The tool has to go over the rod and down into the hex area.
1996KDX200Forks.jpg
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by '03KDX200 »

KDXGarage wrote: 06:45 pm Mar 06 2020 A cheap option you might try is to get a metal wire and wrap it around the threads at the top of the rod. Just bend it so it goes up through the spring.

Otherwise, I think the Motion Pro shown would be a great tool. It has adapters to make it fit five sizes, so if you ever switch to KX forks or get a different bike, it could be used on those.

Here's a picture I took years ago of some 1996 KDX200 forks.

Look at the row of parts next to the bottom row. Count to the sixth part. It is two to the right of a big black o-ring. One has to put a hex into that piece. It has to be on the end of a hollow rod, as the metal rod above the pictured part is in the way. The tool has to go over the rod and down into the hex area.
Wow great tip about wrapping the threads at the top of the rod with a wire and pass the wire up through the spring. That's a really good idea and I'll bet that would work. Or a string even. I might try your wire method and then break down and buy the Motion Pro tool off of Amazon if it isn't easy enough.

Dude awesome picture holy s--t. I can clearly see what you're talking about now, although you did a pretty good job of explaining it earlier. I can probably find the answer to this question online somewhere, but off the top of your head do you know the actual measurement in mm of the hexagonal opening in that bottom part?
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

From above:
KDXGarage wrote: 11:57 pm Mar 05 2020 The cartridge holding tool is basically a tube with a nut on the end. The hollow tube goes over the rod. The nut fits down into a hex portion that is about 27 mm. It keeps the cartridge from spinning when the base valve assembly is being removed or installed. Please do not use air tools to remove the aluminum base valve assembly from the aluminum cartridge. This is not an axle nut on a farm tractor. :grin:
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Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?

Post by KDXGarage »

Call FRP Offroad and see how much shipping is. The website says $25, but that is way too high. The tool is $30. I have one. It is great. He did a fine job on it. One side is for 1995+ and one side is for 1986 - 1992 KDX200 (have not tried it in older forks).

It will not work on 1991 - 1994 KDX250 or 1993 - 1994 KDX200.

If I could only buy one of those two tools, I would buy the FRP Offroad tool, assuming shipping is not sky high.

I could use some tape and wire to pull the rod up and a wooden dowel to push it down. It does have to be cycled a few times to bleed the cartridge.

Again, the "proper" tools make it quick and easy, but it is tough to swallow just using them for a job that is not done often. On the plus side, once you have the "proper tools", it makes it easier to go ahead and change the fork oil on a regular schedule vs. just neglect it.
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