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2004 KDX200 and I assume these are the stock forks. The pic shows the only ID numbers I can find on the forks.


These screw things are the clickers right? All they do is unscrew, no clicking. I can take them all the way out, am I missing something?


Both sides are the same.

I’m an idiot, the manual clearly points out that I’m an idiot. Clickers are on the other end, these are for equalizing air pressure. I’ll go back to chewing on crayons now.

Mods you can delete or leave up so others may shake their heads in shame in my honor.

lol. no, yeah, those are the air bleed valves. not going to delete because this is a question that comes up often and you took great pics.

LOL! We all do some silly stuff when new to the sport or a new bike. Nothing to be ashamed of.

For best results, remove the air bleeder screws when the front tire is off the ground, as on a work stand. If one does it with the forks less than fully extended, it will technically draw a slight vacuum.

Thanks for the great pics. Nice looking forks, by the way!

You really don't wanna see pics of the bottom 3/4. Pretty beat up. I'm trying to figure out if I can make them look original again somehow.
The guy I got it from routed the odometer cable on the outside of the fork so it rubbed a huge shiny wear mark on it and there are tons of scrapes and gouges on the outside of each from wrecks. I'm thinking I'll trim a KYB fork sticker to mask it after touching it up with some paint.
Thoughts?

As long as it is not knocked inward enough to cause something inside to rub against it, the forks should be OK.

Touch up paint sounds great to me. When you get it all perfect, protect / hide the fine work with some UFO fork / disc guards.

https://www.denniskirk.com/ufo/kawasaki ... 591155.sku

Also, some clear numberplate background (sticker) on rub areas will help out. The frame came with them on the sides. Just do the same for other areas.

That is a good idea, should work well after a little bit of touching up on the bad stuff. Thx.

You're welcome.

KDXGarage wrote: ↑08:53 am Jan 14 2019 For best results, remove the air bleeder screws when the front tire is off the ground, as on a work stand. If one does it with the forks less than fully extended, it will technically draw a slight vacuum.

Thanks for the great pics. Nice looking forks, by the way!

NOT that I know from experience or similar,but those screws are really easy to nick up and are flat out uber responsive to flat blade screw drivers. I recall 10 years ago maybe G (KDX) gave me a hard time regarding just how I'd messed mine up. I have issues with tightening things then going back to retighten then overtightening thus totally breaking or cracking or ruining the original item that needed just a little tightening.

He recently pointed out an incident in which I'm still guilty of doing that, but you know,we all have issues of various types.

Right on man. Ride on.
clickers.not crazy.

Tighten until it breaks, then back off 1/8 turn.

KDXGarage wrote: ↑09:03 pm Apr 16 2019 Tighten until it breaks, then back off 1/8 turn.

Precisely. Or in other words,"I can't hep it" cause I just can't stop.