rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

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black
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rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by black »

So 1994 KDX200 ( new to me)
was neglected so I'm redoing her alot ......First up is the rear shock.
Some question before I dive in headfirst.

Removal of shock is straightforward. I’m figuring 6 hrs total for a newb like me
I’m following this video by Rocky mountain specifically

Q1- Stock rear spring is 4.6.
Racetech recommends 5.0 or 5.2 rear shock spring series depending on how intermediate I think I am
(190lb rider no gear Intermediate for trail/ endure).
This is not the Alternate shock spring series . I don’t know the difference?

Q2- Do I need these tools or are there DIY tools?
-Racetech seal setting tool
- Tusk reservoir cap removal tool?

Q3- Order these parts now or as I open the shock?
- Shock seal kit or just seals and dust seals (I’m sure rear shock has never been touched)
- New bladder?
- New shaft nut
- Seal bullet?

Q4- Oil type recommendation?


Am I missing anything else? Have a bump stop.

PS I promise to do a DIY step by step as well somewhere as after this I’m going to do front shocks as well new piston and Steel KIPS valves
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rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by KDXGarage »

black wrote:So 1994 KDX200 ( new to me)
was neglected so I'm redoing her alot ......First up is the rear shock.
Some question before I dive in headfirst.

Removal of shock is straightforward. I’m figuring 6 hrs total for a newb like me
I’m following this video by Rocky mountain specifically

Q1- Stock rear spring is 4.6.
Racetech recommends 5.0 or 5.2 rear shock spring series depending on how intermediate I think I am
(190lb rider no gear Intermediate for trail/ endure).
This is not the Alternate shock spring series . I don’t know the difference?

Q2- Do I need these tools or are there DIY tools?
-Racetech seal setting tool
- Tusk reservoir cap removal tool?

Q3- Order these parts now or as I open the shock?
- Shock seal kit or just seals and dust seals (I’m sure rear shock has never been touched)
- New bladder?
- New shaft nut
- Seal bullet?

Q4- Oil type recommendation?


Am I missing anything else? Have a bump stop.

PS I promise to do a DIY step by step as well somewhere as after this I’m going to do front shocks as well new piston and Steel KIPS valves
1st: No way in heck you are going to get it done in 6 hours flat first time around. :grin:

5.0 Kg / mm rate should be OK. When they say alternate series, I think they mean Eibach.

You most likely will be OK without the seal setting tool. I have one, and it does make it a lot easier and faster, but not impossible to do without it.

Buy some brake cleaner. Have some compressed air handy.

Be aware of trapped dirt inside the adjusting ring and locking ring on the shock body. Spray some light oil on there and allow it to penetrate for a few minutes before moving the rings.

If you go with a 5.0, the stock compression and rebound settings on the clickers won't be the same. It will take more rebound damping to control the more strongly expanding spring. Experiment and ride before heading to the starting gate.

Turn the clickers fully soft before getting too far into the disassembly. You can return them to normal afterwards.

Be sure to try to bleed all the air out, as best you can. Look at the videos on Race Tech for a great video on shock work. The bleeder bolt will come in quite handy here!

When you grind the nut off, shove some grease down in the center hole. Otherwise shavings will go down in the hollow portion of the shaft where the rebound rod, o-rings and such are at. NOT good. DO NOT grind for too long without allowing it to cool. No need to turn it blue and purple.

Since the TUSK tool is probably pretty cheap, I would suggest it. It is a lot better than putting a metal cap on the reservoir and pulling it up. (lube the sides before you press the cap down, more for the trip out of the reservoir.

On a 1989+ USA KDX, I strongly suggest just buying a complete seal head instead of the individual parts. The head is steel and peened over. It takes a massive error to undo the peening enough to get the washer out.

Yes, get all new parts, including bladder, piston band, piston o-ring (that goes under piston band), seal head, bumper and shaft nut.

Seal bullet from TUSK could be cheap enough to go ahead and get. Depends on you. You HAVE TO have some tape or something to keep from damaging the seals when you install the seal head.

On oil, KYB. (my picture of both fork and shock oils)

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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by black »

monster quality reply there... Thank you

6 hrs too little.... game on! The video is only 15 min long ... :)
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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by KDXGarage »

You're welcome. Around 2005 time frame, I used to work on members suspension in this forum. I am no master, but have done a few.

Don't rush it! Don't let a quick video fool you. :lol:
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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by bufftester »

Jason nailed it. As for tools, I learned a long time ago, right tool for the job. THe expense is worth it the first time you're jury rigged tool damages something bad enough you have to replace it.

Take your time, don't plan on pulling the shock with the idea of going riding the next morning.
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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by black »

trying to sort out soem parts to order
If i'm buying an all new All balls seal head I dont need to buy a piston o ring and band, correct? and If I do what are the part #'s?
92055-1369 RING-O,ROD??? but thats only one part?

The oIl I should be able to pick up at the dealer, right? cant find it online, wait.. bike bandit 23.00

As for the shaft but I cant seem to find it a part # on the parts diagram, any help here? Wait.. found it 92049-1281 shaft nut and oil seal.

Ordered the new spring and all balls seal head kit and the "tools" I'll need Getting eager to start here .
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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by KDXohio »

It's very easy if you take your time I find it very satisfying since most peopleare too intimidated to mess with their shocks.
1990 KDX200 FMF Fatty, Answer VFC silencer, VForce 3 Cage, Wiseco Piston, KX125-J series KYB USD fork conversion, Race tech goldvalves, J series front brake assembly, air-box snorkel removed, Acerbis Headlight, KX450F Front fender, Pro Taper RM bend bars, ASV front Brake lever, MSR Clutch perch and lever, RB Head mod, 36mm PWK carb, Trail Tech Kickstand.
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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by KDXGarage »

The piston band and piston o-ring are not available from Kawasaki. Call MX-Tech or similar.

The RING-O, ROD is the one on the outside of the seal head, which the seal head you bought should have it on there.

The OEM seal head and nut combo are too expensive. You can get a KYB Technical Touch nut from a few places.

Don't forget the bladder.

Also, don't get the shims out of order when you take it all apart.

Here's a pic of one I took apart.

Don't take the compression adjuster assembly out without drilling out the peens. Just don't do it if you have not read up on it thoroughly. It takes a bit to write all that up.

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Re: rebuilding rear shock.....some ?'s at first

Post by black »

small update...
new spring, seal head kit, bladder and oil are on their way.

Took the shock off and got the spring off, just waiting for the tools to get here to to take out the old seal head.
all is good!
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