KDXRIDER.NET

Has any one left that out? What do you gain or lose?

i will say to leave it on. because fuel and air mixture travel faster from a bigger orifice to a smaller orifice faster, and hence more throttle response and power. imagine wo the block it fuel will not be concentrated at the centre orifice and will spread wide. ust my thought.

I was planing on leaving it in. But all the after market ones don't seem to have it in there?

in that case check the aftermarket reed block to see if the opening is smaller. for me, i just take out the stock metal petal that are installed togather with the reed petal.

KDXsg wrote:in that case check the aftermarket reed block to see if the opening is smaller. for me, i just take out the stock metal petal that are installed togather with the reed petal.

Are you referring to the Reed stops?I'd advise against that if it is.

To the OP my VF3's have that plastic insert its just angled.so I'm guessing that kawi had something good going on there if V-force left it in too.

what is the reason for the reed stops? i am using the boysen 607 reed.

Well, it is a valve (check-valve). it's limited to how much it can open, and it needs to shut as well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke ... nlet_valve

Man how many bong hits did that guy do before he made the video?

Mr. Wibbens wrote:Man how many bong hits did that guy do before he made the video?

LOL! Several higher quality Ganja ones I'd say.

Not enough?

I'm gonna rip mine apart soon, judging by what you guys are saying I think perhaps it is something that could be better modified or left depending on whether low down torque or high revving happiness is desired.

LOL

i dont think the reed stop referring here is the check valve. i agreed that the reed stop limit reed petal from flexing over its limit if you are using oem reed petals bcos of the weak material used. but if you are using carbon reed or boysen reed which the reeds is of less flexi. the 2 big metal pices can be omitted. been running this setup for 14 years, feels greater power delivery.

The instructions I got with the 607 reeds said to leave the metal stops out.

thanks rbates9.

The entire reed assembly is a check (one way) valve. That's how it works.

fuzzy wrote:LOL

why lol? that is how 2-stroke tuning is done

There are some tricks that can be done in a stock cage, but none that will amount to the difference of installing different reeds, and possibly removing stops due to stiffer reeds.....or moreso an entirely different cage of different design. Mods done to increase intake area at the cage will generally result in a sucked reed at some point. However, please enlighten us. You seem to be a 2-cycle expert yet ask questions that would contradict that. We're all here to help and discuss, but don't like being told things point blank about how things are done.

The V-Force systems use 2 complete sets of reeds (4 total) and offer increased flow by increasing (doubling) the surface area of the reeds. This allows the cage to flow more, with less reed flex.
The Boyeson RAD Valve also works well, but it approaches things from a different direction - The RAD Valve has larger ports in the cage, and the (2) reeds are set at a steeper angle. This allows them to respond quicker to pressure variations, at the expense of reed life (more flex). I ran a RAD valve for 2 years in my KDX with zero reed issues.
The Boyeson Power reeds utilize the stock cage, with the reed stops removed. They are 2-stage reeds with a hole in the center of the 1st (thicker) reeds, and a smaller, thinner set of reeds that cover that hole. This allows good flow at slower engine speeds, and good response at higher speeds as the thicker set of reeds start to operate.
AFAIK - stiffer reeds will give you better high end response, and thinner, more flexible reeds will give you better low end response, but both will come at some expense at the other end of the rev range.
I have heard of some folks "cutting" the reeds, although I am unsure what they mean by this. I have also seen some folks cut an old set of reeds to half length, and stack them on top of the new reeds, in effect, making them stiffer. This is done mostly to get more top end out of a motor for MX or desert use.
I do not pretend to be an expert on this subject. I am just relaying what I have seen and heard about.