KDXRIDER.NET

Ok guys, i had some major engine failure today, luckily it was on the road goin to the trails, and not far from home.
But anywho, pretty much everything from the reeds to the exhaust port is damged beyond repair.

My question to all of you is, when i get the barrel sleeved/bored and plated is it worth getting a bore kit (and how big to go) ?? And its pros and cons.
The terrain where i ride varies from tight 4x4 tracks to sand dunes and beach runs, im running 13/14:45 gearing (i change cs sprockets) and use top gear reguarly.

Any other mods i should look at while im pricing this all up?

Input of all forms is appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Michael.

woops, bike is 1990 200 E2.

You can't big bore your E series bike without sacrificing the power valves. Not worth it IMO. Not to mention, the only big bore kit is a 240, and I understand that you can no longer easily find the pistons for that kit. I seem to recall someone doing a 225 with an E series, but was never again able to find the info.

Perhaps someone here knows more about it.

Lets see some pics of that cylinder!

It's beyond repairing with a welder?

I hate to offer this advice, but if you regularly ride sand dunes, beach runs, and use top gear often, you have the wrong bike. You may want to start looking into the higher powered 4 strokes - which seem to tolerate extended periods of high speed/full throttle better than our mildly tuned 200cc 2 stroke motors do.
Before making any comittments, I would start calling around, and be prepared to have some detailed pictures of your damaged cylinder to submit. There was a thread here not long ago that had several recomendations for this type of work. Many can weld up the damaged area's and replate.

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gregp wrote:I hate to offer this advice, but if you regularly ride sand dunes, beach runs, and use top gear often, you have the wrong bike. You may want to start looking into the higher powered 4 strokes - which seem to tolerate extended periods of high speed/full throttle better than our mildly tuned 200cc 2 stroke motors do.

He's probably right. If your in top gear with it that much you need a different bike.

The cylinder itself isnt too badly damaged, im very certain a bore, to say 40/60thou would fix it and piston to suit, but while im at it i had the big bore idea come to mind. i dont really want to lose the valves, its a noticable difference when even one of them breaks.

Welding the head would probably work, so thats a help.

I do use top gear reguarly but not for very extended periods, ie; gears 2-4 for 15-20 minutes and then wind it out to ~60mph (100km/h) to get to the next area and back into the tight stuff. The land in Western Australia is quite flat unfortunately....

I have the same problem. My piston broke and chiped the ports on the cyilinder. I wil have to bore and re nikelsil the cylinder. Are there any good shops in California or anywhere that any of you would recomend?

saldanaracing wrote:I have the same problem. My piston broke and chiped the ports on the cyilinder. I wil have to bore and re nikelsil the cylinder. Are there any good shops in California or anywhere that any of you would recomend?

200 or a 220?

The 220 is famous for breaking pistons

As far as I know on the E series, you can't bore it. You will have to have the damage repaired and re-plated back to stock size.

Go ahead and get a stock piston kit and send it on with the cylinder. They will match it perfectly for you. I recommend langcourt personally, although there are others.

Mr. Wibbens wrote:

saldanaracing wrote:I have the same problem. My piston broke and chiped the ports on the cyilinder. I wil have to bore and re nikelsil the cylinder. Are there any good shops in California or anywhere that any of you would recomend?

200 or a 220?

The 220 is famous for breaking pistons

2002 KDX 220R. What does the R stand for?

reject

hahaha, now that's just mean!


Fact remains. The 220's are known for grenading pistons. You need to put a forged piston in it.

does the skirts on the pistons break on the 220? or is it something else that breaks?

Yes, and other parts of the pistons, but generally skirt. Pro-X (OEM) casting for the 220 is just junk apparently, and was never corrected. That being said, installing a new Pro-X 220 piston is the same as leaving the factory one in place. Wiseco is the recommendation due to availability, but anyone but pro-x that made a 220 piston would suffice. I'm sure there are some that prefer a cast piston, but you are SOL.

like this???!!!!

Guys, i got this reply from a local (australian) company that pretty much has the monopoly on cylinder re-plating.
What are your thoughts?

--------------
Michael,

We can repair the 1990 KDX200 for you and there is a +3mm oversize piston kit available for bigbore to the 220cc spec. The power valves would need to be modified for this as well as the head, the costing would be;

Electrosil Coating $520 inc GST
Piston Kit $190 Inc GST
Bigbore +3mm $88 inc GST
Power Valve Modification $88 Inc GST
Head Modification $110 inc GST
Oversize Gasket Set $60 inc GST

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Pffft... in their dreams!

It would probably be cheaper to send it to the states and back....

A brand new cylinder for a 1990 KDX 200 lists for $487.42 on Bikebandit.com...

gregp wrote:A brand new cylinder for a 1990 KDX 200 lists for $487.42 on Bikebandit.com...

Ron Ayers and Service Honda have it listed for $431.72 and Kawasaki Parts nation for $423.18.

Yeah, I would tell that shop to kiss my a$$. Then you could use standard pistons, standard gaskets, and no costs from modding the power valves, the head, or the "extra" for the overbore.

Hmm yeah there is no where else is aust really....
Genuine kawasaki barrel ~$1050.00

Now for the conrod question, is there anything wrong with the original item? ie; No one uses oem pistons, what are people using for conrods?