KDXRIDER.NET

Today I removed my V-Force reed cage, and moved the reed stops to the "low tension" setting, even though the cage came with a small paper with a warning that said that the reed life will be dramatically shortened in this setting.
It made a big difference! The motor now has a very strong hit in the lower mid-range - just where I want it!
The V-Force now feels very similar to the Boyeson RAD valve I had in my '96 KDX.

Which version, V2 or V3?

V2

gregp wrote:Today I removed my V-Force reed cage, and moved the reed stops to the "low tension" setting, even though the cage came with a small paper with a warning that said that the reed life will be dramatically shortened in this setting.
It made a big difference! The motor now has a very strong hit in the lower mid-range - just where I want it!
The V-Force now feels very similar to the Boyeson RAD valve I had in my '96 KDX.

I was curious about this as I have the same reeds and they had the same warning. I left them alone. Maybe I will adjust them and see what it is like.

The Boyeson RAD valve did not come with any warning, but, over time, they did develope a reputation for needing frequent reed replacement, although I never had any issues with mine.
I guess it really is pretty simple - If you set them up, or design the cage so that the reeds have to flex more, they will wear out sooner (than stock). There is no free lunch!

[/url]

frankenschwinn wrote:I was curious about this as I have the same reeds and they had the same warning. I left them alone. Maybe I will adjust them and see what it is like.

Even though getting at, removing, and replacing the reed cage is a bit of a PITA (removing the pipe will help, but I didn't), I recommend that you try this. You may not notice much of a difference in a wide open riding area, as top end power remains largely unaffected, but once you get in the tight stuff, the difference will be immediately noticeable.
While I had it out, I took the time to trim off a portion of the "V-Force" tab (using a Dremel with a cut off wheel), and installed it right side up, but I do not believe that made any difference...

...I have an FMF woods pipe, stock silencer, lid removed from the air box, jetting, and the power valve detent ball and spring removed...

Mine is a hybrid with a woods pipe, turbine core II silencer. Airbox removed. Jetted pretty good. Vforce II reeds/cage. I am looking for a bit more punch coming out of corners in singletrack, woods sections.

That is pretty much what I was looking for, and what I got. :-)
The only thing left would be porting, maybe, but I would guess that is only for top end, or maybe the "wing in the carb inlet" mod and the RB head mod, but I do not think that I will go that far. The motor pretty much pulls as good as I need it to.
I may start looking at race Tech Gold Valves next.... I had them in my KLX250, and loved them for sharp trail hits.