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I run ATF in the gearbox on the KDX right now.

I run 15-50 synthetic in my DRZ400. The DRZ likes the thick stuff. Runs quieter, shifts smoother.

Anyone ever run a heavier weight oil like the 15-50 in thier KDX. Thought I could give it a try, but don't want to waste the oil if the gearbox doesn't like it.

This is not a which oile weight is better thread I'm just curious about the 15-50 weight.

Thx....

I'm thinking it may be hard to keep the bike stopped while in gear with clutch lever pulled

I know mine would definitely be creeping

Harder to start in gear too

OK....thanks.....you would know better than me.

Do you use ATF or what?

I'm just talking crap, it might work ok, but I doubt it would work on my bike. 10/40 in my bike and it creeps like crazy until the motor warms up. One time I started it and it just took off, I barely had time to hit the kill switch before the bike went over the bank

I run 5/30 whenever I can find some

Tried ATF but I don't like it

Give it a try, every bike seems to like something different. I get the least amount of drag with the clutch pulled using ATF in my KDX, but my F11 feels real notchy with ATF, so I use honda HP oil in it. It looks and smells like ATF, but it's definitely a bit thicker.

I used plain old 20W-50 motor oil for the longest time. Then you all scared me with stories about friction modifiers and slipping clutches. Now I use motorcycle specific 20w-50 with no problems. It is really hot down here, though.

OK...so by clutch grab do ya'll mean........

The ATF is thinner so it flows more freely between the clutch plates. A thicker oil will not flow as freely, creating drag or "pull"....which should ease up as the oil heats up?

Correct. That's the thinking process behind it anyway......

Fredette recommends 80wt GoldenSpectro Gear oil. the whole quart.

Just switched, the jury is still out.

don't know about ATF, but Ford Type F is what all the old-school racers I know use. Personally I use straight 30HD motor oil because it was on clearance and change it often. I have also used diesel-spec 15W40 which is JASO rated for motorcycle engine use (no friction modifiers)

ATF is the thinnest weight transmission oil, it's like the equivalent of 5W shock oil

That's what everyone is talking about, ATF Type-F. I have been using it for probably 20 years without a failure. I do change it fairly often however.

personally, I would use the thinner oil for cooler temps, and the thicker oil for racing or summertime use only. Esp since you are in PA

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Tomm9050 wrote:Fredette recommends 80wt GoldenSpectro Gear oil. the whole quart.

Just switched, the jury is still out.

I was using that and it was working pretty good as far as i could tell. the last time I changed my oil I tried the G.S. 10/30 clutch saver. the biggest difference is the 80wt seemed to get darker quicker.? :partyman:

Has anyone used a trans oil mix of 2 parts ATF and 1 part 10-40W oil?

When I had my 220, it worked real well. Course I changed it often.

Does it mix?

Indawoods wrote:Does it mix?

It looks all red and gooey...

A smart guy I conversed with explained .... "The oil/ATF mix works excellent with wet clutches and also is a good gear lube. The oil part will make things a little quieter and adds a little stickiness film to the shift drum and forks.
ATF and motor oil is cheap and changing it all the time will make your clutch and gear box last for a much longer time. Just remember that dirt riding and washing your bike can allow water and moisture to contaminate the oil. (it usually gets in through worn counter shaft seals or vents."

I have been looking into this as well and you can really use almost anything. The key is that there are no friction modifiers in whatever you use. Many automotive oils have a small round stamp on them. The ones you want to avoid will say energy conserving on the bottom of that stamp.

My '04 definately shifts better with oil, than with ATF. I do not have any problems with clutch drag. I use a DR650 clutch lever (1996 and newer), which offers a much quicker engagement/disengagement range, with a slightly tougher pull. The upside is that I get complete disengagement with the lever pulled in.

I'm gunna go riding this weekend, so I'll try the 15-50 and tell ya'll what I think on SUnday.

Ipaman wrote:I have been looking into this as well and you can really use almost anything. The key is that there are no friction modifiers in whatever you use. Many automotive oils have a small round stamp on them. The ones you want to avoid will say energy conserving on the bottom of that stamp.

I can get some peanut oil really cheap by the 5 gallon jug at Sam's club