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Clutch issues - A NEW 22/05/2011 update (see my last post)
Posted: 05:10 pm Aug 17 2010
by engybenjy
OK, so having had a search and a read, it looks like I need to remove the 'dents' on the clutch basket where the tangs sit. the outer most plate wasnt offset into the 'odd' groove, if that makes sense ;)
the question I do have is, why does my clutch have 4 bolts when every other picture have 5 bolts.........
Cheers, Ben
The update:
I removed one friction plate, its not ideal as 2 friction plates are 'face to face'
but it doesnt slip, unless you rag the arse of it from first to second and then only for a heartbeat. The clutch doesnt drag at all, it still jumps a little when engaging first at a standstill and it totall disengages, which is correct and neutral is ok to find.
i think it'll do till i get the new clutch pack
cheers All,
ben
Posted: 06:02 pm Aug 17 2010
by Indawoods
Huh? KDX's have 4....
Posted: 04:29 am Aug 18 2010
by engybenjy
the pics in the Kawa services book have 5 and every advert for clutch springs has 5 in it........
I'll be doing the 'dents' in the basket this AM. Looks like it'll need replacing soon but I'm having trouble finding one. Has everyone stopped making aftermarket parts for us?
Posted: 08:25 am Aug 18 2010
by Indawoods
Look in the links under Fredette... he has an aftermarket basket....
Posted: 11:57 am Aug 18 2010
by dfeckel
The E series has five springs and the H series has 4. At least that's my understanding.
Posted: 12:10 pm Aug 18 2010
by Indawoods
Could be... I have never had the cover off the 92 I had....
Posted: 12:18 pm Aug 18 2010
by engybenjy
Right. Took the clutch apart, again, today and filed the 'dents' out of the fingers on the basket. Reassembled it and added a 2mm washer to the clutch 'pusher' after removing the 1mm spacer, cos I didnt have another to match ;)
But with the engine running and the clutch pulled hard in, and adjusted to give max 'pull', It jumps real hard when engaging 1st gear but it is easier to find neutral.....
The clutch lever is quite stiff but has good feel. As in it actually feels like its doing something, except its not!
Think I need to strip the plates back out and check there in spec., altho they looked good enough to me....
Any pointers would be welcome,
ben
Posted: 02:15 pm Aug 18 2010
by KarlP
As in it actually feels like its doing something, except its not!
Does this mean the clutch is not working - as in it is slipping and won't pull you around?
Or are you concerned that it jumps going into first? Most bikes do, is it more than you think is right?
The fact that you can find neutral with the bike running is a good sign.
I would measure the plates. It doesn't take much for them to not work.
Did youu reassemble it correctly? It can be tricky
Posted: 02:25 pm Aug 18 2010
by engybenjy
it doesnt just 'clunk' into gear it nearly jumps out of my hands! and it stalls the bike.
Its as though the rod in the case isnt pushing the clutch far enough to disengage the plates.
I'm going to mic the plates up tomorrow, see whats what ;)
Havin' trouble finding a new basket, plates aint an issue but baskets seem to be rare :s
Posted: 02:32 pm Aug 18 2010
by scheckaet
warm or cold?
mine jumps and stalls too when she's cold. After she warms up, no problem.
Posted: 03:01 pm Aug 18 2010
by engybenjy
Even when warm, if anything its worse after a run.
Curiouser and curiouser.....
Stripped it all back down this morning and measured all the plates.
I have 8 friction plates and 7 clutch plates

The Kawa manual says you only need 7 friction and obviously 6 plates. I've measured the height of the clutch pack space and thats 31.52mm. Now the clutch pack as it came out is 33.75mm. Now if i removed 1 friction and 1 steel plate, could I get away with that??
The friction plates came in-between 3.09mm and 3.03mm but they have been in oil and the book doesn't say whether the limits are for dry or wet....
The steel plates came in-between 1.38mm and 1.36mm but the book doesn't give any dim's for these
The best price I've found for a new clutch in total is £200!! Thats basket, plates, springs etc. A new clutch for my 24v BMW was only 120!!!! Is it just me or is someone taking the piss

Posted: 08:19 am Aug 19 2010
by dfeckel
I looked up the price for an OEM basket for an E series on Bikebandit and just about fell out of my chair--$274!
Posted: 01:28 pm Aug 19 2010
by engybenjy
And in the UK that'll be 258 STERLING not USd ;)
Posted: 01:55 pm Aug 19 2010
by jlove1974
You could always buy barnett aftermarket clutches and basket and be done with it.

Posted: 02:35 pm Aug 19 2010
by frankenschwinn


jlove1974 wrote:You could always buy barnett aftermarket clutches and basket and be done with it.

They don't make a basket for the KDX...
Posted: 02:38 pm Aug 19 2010
by jlove1974
Here's a tusk clutch kit w/ HD springs:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... Parts=true
Pro-X makes the basket, not Barnett. How about Hinson Racing?
Posted: 02:40 pm Aug 19 2010
by Indawoods
How about calling Fredette?
Posted: 02:50 pm Aug 19 2010
by jlove1974
Pro X part number is 17.4285 for 1989-94, which is the E series. No such part available for the H so I might want to keep the spare I have eh?
Posted: 05:08 pm Aug 19 2010
by engybenjy
Well, I've had the clutch apart again and put it all back properly and pretty much as it was except the last plate is now in the slots in the fingers
AND.....
Still doesn't work properly! The clutch isn't disengaging properly.
I've had the clutch pack in my workbench and used that to 'open' the clutch. The plates still didn't want to slide over each other. There is a great deal of ''sticktion'' between the friction and steel plates.
Could the old manky oil have contaminated them?? Can they be cleaned or to be replaced only??
Its not like the thing is slipping!! It wont let go!!!!
I've left the bike running for 10-15mins earlier on to try it with warm oil but it made no difference. I've left it with the lever pulled back overnight see if that makes any headway.
ATB, Ben
Posted: 05:30 am Aug 20 2010
by Julien D
there's a thrust washer behind the basket, then another one between the basket and the inner hub, IIRC. If these are not in the correct places, clutch will not disengage.