KDXRIDER.NET

When I bought my KX forks I had the local MC shop install new seals and remove the 2 largest shims. Pretty good, but still not as plush (in rebound) as I'd prefer. I think 3 shims out would put it where I want it, but still at the limit of adjustment. I'm guessing 4 shims out would put it where I want it and be able to adjust up/down for conditions.

If I could do it over again - that's what I'd do. But since I won't do that until I need some new seals, I'm left with playing with the air pocket to effect the rebound.

Any wisdom, experience or even guesses in this regard? I've never played with the air before - bigger pocket means softer or harder? When changing it, do you change 1cm at a time or go for a bigger chunk? The measurements are taken in the compressed pos'n right?

Thanks in advance

Withdraw some oil a couple of mm at a time. Just remember... air compresses... oil doesn't.

Thanks Inda. I took it out this afternoon and over 20-25 miles played with the clickers until I found max plush (given the setup). This thing tracks so well I was crossing giant ruts with no problem at even crazy angles.

Now I can play with the oil level and try to optimize it a bit more.

I'm mighty tempted to take the forks down and play with the shims though...

Could I use the same seals - they're new. Or would I need to replace them once the tubes are apart? I've never torn into forks before.

The valve comes out the bottom. All you need is a 14mm allen head socket and a rattle gun. I just flip my bike upside down after draining the clutch oil and go to town....

Uh, that sounds interesting. You're not pulling my chain right?

Leave the front wheel, etc on the bike and you don't even lose any oil? Base valve comes right out the bottom?

How upside down does it need to be? Mostly upside down like a dead cow or totally upside down like my son's bike when I reinstall his chain?

I flip it over on it's bars and rear fender... like you used to do with your bicycle.... Don't lose anything.

Spread a blanket out though so you don't scrape up your fender....

You will want to compress the forks before trying to remove the base valve as this will allow it to be removed. Otherwise it will just spin. I do this with some ratchet straps... one on each side of the wheel.

Thanks Inda - that looks just like my bike earlier this year right after I hit a sinkhole.

I think I'll give that a try.