KDXRIDER.NET

I know this isn't a kdx question, but I thought someone on here would be able to help. I just got my wife a kx 100 (switched from a crf 150f) and she loves it. I put bar risers on it and that made the clutch cable a little tight...still turns well, so we're going to give it a shot. I noticed a second adjustment on the clutch cable. It's down the cable 4-5 inches from the perch. It has the normal adjuster at the perch, so I was wondering what the second adjustment was for. It looks similar to the normal adjuster but made of plastic. I thought maybe it was to lenghten the cable a bit, but that just doesn't seem to make sense. Sorry for the long post...thanks for the help.

John

i have one of those except its steel on my cable. when/if i run out of adjustment on the perch it can be used to lengthen (or shorten) the outer of the cable.

thanks, so it's just another adjustment

as far as i know its all i can use it for.... :)

A guy on Thumpertalk had the same issue and used a kx125 clutch cable I believe.

I know you aren't asking, but I did some work to my wifes KX100 to make it a lot more manageable.

Stock pipe
RBD head work
RBD carb
Careful jetting

I don't know what made the bigest difference, but the bike has some really sweet low end torque and "stall resistance"
I also put a kickstarter off of a '95 KX125 on it. It took a little grinding but is a big improvement over the stock one.

I don't have anything to offer on the cable length.

The big one down the cable is for rough adjutsment requiring tools. The perch adjuster is for fine adjustment on the fly. This is for people so hard on a clutch (like a fast MX racer) that it actually needs adjustment during a moto due to wear. Clutches last me years, not just one race day or moto even... Using the big adjuster to make your cable longer won't work. The only way to make a cable longer is to make it longer Sounds like the 125 cable is what you are in need of.

or try re-routing it. Mine was really tight because it was routed over the centre number plate mounting screw. I moved it under the screw, and now it has lots of give.

Thanks for the help everyone. I will try moving it under the number plate mounting screw and see how that goes. If not, I guess I will be looking for a kx125 clutch cable. One other question, is it okay to rotate the throttle assembly forward to give the throttle cable more play? I just experimented with it and it doesn't seem to affect anything.

KarlP

The bike came with a pro circuit pipe and shorty silencer. I just went one tooth down on the front to a 12, so we'll see how that goes. I think my jetting is pretty close with 138 MJ, 42 PJ, stock needle in the 2nd clip position (from the top), and air screw at about 1 3/8 turns out. I was thinking of getting a 12oz flywheel weight, but my wife is doing really well on it, so we'll see how the gearing change helps and go from there. Anything I should know about these bikes? I mix honda hp 32:1 (that's what the PO was using), keep the air filter clean, and change the tranny oil regularly. My wife is a good rider but (like me) takes it easy, so she isn't very hard on the bike. We are running a br9es plug which is a step hotter than the factory plug and it really helps with fouling for a rider that doesn't open it up very often.

Thanks,

John

Anything I should know about these bikes?

Not really. Ours has proven to be pretty reliable. We are also using the BR9 plug.
My goal was to move some HP down from the top to the bottom. We did that.
I understand that it is not hard to convert to a #50 chain from the #45 that is on there. I'll probably do that when we wear the current stuff out.

Does anyone have advise on rotating the throttle assembly forward to give the throttle cable more play. It doesn't seem to affect anything just opening the throttle, but I haven't ridden the bike with it like this yet. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

How are you doing that? The master cylinder is in the way of the assembly.

The master cylinder for the front brake sits right above where the throttle cable enters the assembly. It actually works out pretty good the way everything fits together...almost like it was made that way. I was just wondering if there was any downside to having the throttle assembly rotated that far forward. It seems like the throttle is in the same position and that's what I was concerned about. For example, having to roll your hand over the throttle to be able to use the full range. Any ideas on how you guys think this will work out are appreciated.

Thanks,

John

The throttle action will be the same. Your throttle starts where you put you hand no matter how it is rotated.

The only downside I can think of is a branch or something grabbing the cable....

Thanks, that explains why the throttle position feels the same...I just couldn't get my head around it for some reason. That's a good point about the possibility of something grabbing the cable. I just installed a pair of those fancy tusk handguards that I saw on your bike, so hopefully they will protect the throttle cable as well as the hands. Thanks for the help...I really appreciate it.

John