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I just cracked a cheap 19 mm socket trying to get the main swing arm pivot screw off. The long screw that goes through the frame on both sides - bolt head is on the left side and a rubber cover is on the right.


My new 19 mm impact socket barely fits into the frame on the OD - I had to scrape the paint off the frame, and the socket has a couple degrees of play. And my 18 mm socket doesn't fit over the head, although the head is slightly damaged.

I just wanted to confirm - the main swing arm pivot screw head on the left side is 19 mm hex, right? I really don't want to strip this head, and won't be hammering on my 18 mm unless it's an 18.



Also - is it a nut and bolt combo, or is the nut welded into the frame? I can't see it because of the rubber cover which I don't want to tear by accident.

Thanks for the help. I'm resurrecting a beat up old machine. I can lift the rear wheel 1" before the shock engages. I've got all three pivot/shock kits going in.

http://www.pivotworks.com/documents/sup ... 1EEA1C.pdf


the long screw shown here.

I guess that answers my nut/bolt question. How does the rubber on the right side come off to access the nut?

Just pry it off with a screw driver. Yes it's 19mm.

You just pull the cap off

Use a prick or a screw driver

You'll want to loosen the nut

Then probably have to use a drift to hammer the bolt out

It can be problematic

Good luck

thanks. problematic is an understatement.

the outer race of my linkage bearings are now stuck, because the needles fell out like dust.

getting the heat gun.

heat gun isn't really gonna do much

Propane torch or better yet a Mapp gas torch

5lb sledge and a brass drift and lots of heat cycles for a day and a half is what it took for mine

thanks for the tip on removing the nut first Mr. Wibbens. The manual is real help - "remove the screw"

got the nut off no problem.

Then stood on a 8" long 1/2 drive ratchet on the screw head. Literally sat on the bike and stood on it while holding the handlebars.

Did I miss something, or do I need a wrecking bar? Lots of WD40, but no heat (yet)

yeah, I meant propane torch.

I guess I'll be draining the gas out... (it's in the basement of my house)

any tips on removing a mangled outer bearing race that's corroded solid into the unitrack suspension arm? I'm considering cutting it in half with the hacksaw.

(minimal tools available, but lot's of determination and willpower)

I use a 12 ton hydraulic press I got from Harbor Freight that goes on sale often for about $100.00. It's useful for a lot of things. WD-40 is not the best choice for freeing corroded bolts. try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. When you put the new races in use anti-seize compound on them to prevent problems next time.

Here's an entertaining read for you

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... st11606512

yikes! I sure hope that's not me, but it's quite possible looking at my other bearings.

if that's the case, I'll just leave the bearings as is for another 7 years.

I'm getting a friend to machine a proper sized press anvil for me, instead of using undersized sockets.

Holy crap. I hope mine never catches that disease.

and I used a 10 ton press to push out the bearings from the dogbone. easy as pie.

but - my main pivot screw is still in there solid as a rock. i got Liquid Wrench, a hammer and a brass pin to hammer on the end of the screw with no luck. Also tapped on the engine housing lightly to no avail.

Next is heat and an impact gun. But I have to put it all together again to get to the bike to work for the air impact gun. what a drag.


Would I apply the heat to the middle of the engine where the screw goes through, or to the swing arm where the bearings are? Is it corroded into the engine or the swing arm? Looking at it from the outside, I suspect engine, and that's a long length of corrosion. The screw must be a snug fit through the bottom end, right?


So many q's, I know, but it's been 6 hours now on one screw. Well, no, not really...

Colorado Mike wrote:Holy crap. I hope mine never catches that disease.

i'll be greasing bearings twice annually once I get this bitch apart.

It's just froze to the pins that go through the bearings

Need to heat the bolt, both ends

And wail on it harder than you think you ever should

A day and a half and all I got was a 1/2"

Id pound it back in and out, in and out...

Heat it up and repeat

I fail to see what you are going to accomplish with an impact, you already have the nut off

Mr. Wibbens wrote:It's just froze to the pins that go through the bearings

Need to heat the bolt, both ends

And wail on it harder than you think you ever should

A day and a half and all I got was a 1/2"

Id pound it back in and out, in and out...

Heat it up and repeat

I fail to see what you are going to accomplish with an impact, you already have the nut off

Maybe break the bolt loose if it is seized? Maybe?

The bearing sleeves are what usually seizes to the bolt, and I would think they would spin with it. Is that not the case on yours? I would wonder what an air hammer would do if it could be controlled and not mushroom the end of the bolt. The higher frequency hammering might break the bond. I also wonder if all else fails you could spread the frame enough to get a sawzall in between the swingarm and frame to cut the bolt without damaging the spendy parts. then you could try soaking the swingarm end in PB blaster for a few days and press out the bearings/bolt parts. Many woodworking clamps can be reversed to act as spreaders, but you'd need a strong one and a place on the frame to place it.