KDXRIDER.NET

I'm new to bikes, but pretty good with a wrench. I just discovered my 3 week old (to me) 2003 KDX220 is in desperate need of a linkage/shock bearing rebuild. I plan on getting a Pivot Works kit.

Do I need any special tools to replace linkage/shock/swingarm bearings? Outside of wrenches, sockets and a vice, I don't have any special bike tools, but I can press mountain bike bearings into a frame using those.


In the process, I also want to tear off the head and cylinder to check my piston.

Again, do I need special tools to look for the Wiseco? The previous owner said his prev. owner had rebuilt the top end, but didn't know any details. I don't plan to replace anything unless I find a stock piston in there.

Do I have enough seals in this gasket kit I bought to get at the piston and reinstall it? Thanks!




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I did my linkage bearings recently with the same tools you have, it wasn't too bad. If you've done mountain bike bearings it should be fairly similar.

Can't tell you anything about the motor...haven't done that yet...

This should be enough for a top end. The tusk kit doesn't come with the o ring for the rod of the kips subvavlve, usually don't need it though.
If you're going to pull the cylinder off, it's a good idea to replace the piston rings.
If you do need a new piston, you'll need to order a new rod bearing since it doesn't come with the wiseco kit. (dat sux)

Also I hope you heard about supporting the actuator shaft when you remove the left treaded nut, if not do a search.

Piston rings - check.

What about assembly tools?

I have access to measurement tools (calipers, ID bore gauge, gap gauges etc).

ideally, you'll need an adapter to torque the cylinder nuts. I did it by hand/feel on my last top end though and didn't have any issue.
I usually get a spare set of snap ring for the piston sleeve in case the booger decide to jump out.

I use a 6mm open end wrench to support the KIPS actuator rod, and the Motion Pro torque wrench adapter that has a 12mm box on one end and a 14mm box on the other with a square 3/8" hole in the center to put your torque wrench into. At 90° there is no torque conversion needed. I think that's about the only items not found in a normal tool kit.

scheckaet wrote:ideally, you'll need an adapter to torque the cylinder nuts. I did it by hand/feel on my last top end though and didn't have any issue.
I usually get a spare set of snap ring for the piston sleeve in case the booger decide to jump out.

I've never done a head and was wondering why you'd need an adapter? Is it because you cannot get at the nuts while the engine is still on the bike? I'm going to have to go take a look at the bike after i post this...

Colorado Mike wrote:I use a 6mm open end wrench to support the KIPS actuator rod, and the Motion Pro torque wrench adapter that has a 12mm box on one end and a 14mm box on the other with a square 3/8" hole in the center to put your torque wrench into. At 90° there is no torque conversion needed. I think that's about the only items not found in a normal tool kit.

Mike what is the adapter for? the head nuts mention above or something else on the KIPS?

I've been reading the manual and looking at photos but until i actually get into it I'm still unsure of some of the details.

don't need it for the head but you will for the cylinder.
You can't access the nut in the cylinder since it's in a recess....

a little search yield this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... lyId=25517

Bare with me guys I'm new at this and just trying to understand.
Wouldn't you just use a ratchet and socket or are you talking about something else?

Taking parts off=ratchet is fine. Back them off evenly. Putting parts on=need a torque wrench to get all the nuts & bolts tightened to the proper spec. You need the adaptor to remove and apply (re-torque) the cylinder because the nuts that hold it on are down on the cylinder base, and there is no room to get the wrench and socket on straight. Right?


Jupiter, you are looking at the head. I think he was talking about the cylinder.

I just realized that re-reading the post!
Got it. Thanks guys.

yup, I see the cylinder nuts need a crowsfoot. Not a problem (thanks to work)

Thanks guys!


Any tips on bending radiators back to fit a rad guard?

I'm pretty close, but still having to zip tie. I realize i might burst the aluminum brazing - I'm being careful just to bend the bracketry, not the vessel or tubing.

Yeah, I know, kind of after the fact, but I just bought the bike and didn't know how out of shape the rads were when I got it.

have a pro do it. if you bend them back yourself you might crack some of the weld and you'll be screwed, ask me how I know...
there 's a company that does it for fairly cheap, can't remember their name but there was a post on here a few weeks back.

A crow's foot doesn't work. At least mine doesn't, the sides are too thick too turn the nut before they bind on the cylinder. The MP tool works well.

MP Tool on order. Thanks Mike.

scheckaet wrote:This should be enough for a top end. The tusk kit doesn't come with the o ring for the rod of the kips subvavlve, usually don't need it though.

Is there a top end kit that includes the o ring for the KIPS rod? I looked on the microfiche and it didn't show the o ring as a part number.

I bought a used complete cylinder and am having it replated. I'd like to replace that o ring since I have no idea how much use it has had.

Dunno where you looked but this o ring is on the micro fiche at ronayers, just ordered them since the Tusk gasket kit doesn't come with it. I think the moose kit have them.

Do you have the part number? I see the RH rod (46102A), but don't see the o ring.

Thanks

Is this what your talking about?

http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=