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Looking to clean the inside of my silencer and expansion chamber as I have a feeling it may be clogged.

From searching on the forums, I've found that people often use a torch to get it hot and all the build up will turn to ash. Though, I've notice people don't mention much about cleaning the expansion chamber.

Should I be cleaning the expansion chamber too? Or just the spark arrestor/silencer?

I recently burned all the spooge out of mine with mapp gas

I did it at night so I could actually see the pipe glowing

Then I took my fish tape and scraped the insides of the pipe the best I could, and followed that with a good soaking of berryman's

Expansion chamber need cleaning?
Look at the inlet end of the pipe and evaluate it. A coating of 1/16 inch or so localized to the outer radius is normal. If a coating has built up on the whole circumference of the pipe then maybe it would benefit you. The coating will not be uniform and will likely have pock marks which allow you to see the depth of the build-up. Sticking a medium to large rose bud acetylene/oxygen torch in the inlet and heating the build up area to a cherry red will carbonize the build-up and you can easily knock it loose. Works well and is quick with the following notations
NOTE: It will smoke up the garage (if not done outside), discolor the pipe in the area where it has been heated, and if you go nuts with the heat you can likely burn a hole in the pipe.

You can drop the pipe off at a performance machine shop with a hot tank and have the carbon chemically stripped out. When this service was "free for me" it was great. Pipe came back like new (except the dents were still in it). On a stock pipe it will strip the paint - but on a plated pipe it did not touch the plating. You should check with the shop in case their chemical solution would attract the plating.

In this day and age if your getting significant build up in your pipes you should be looking at jetting and quality of oil that your using. Most all get some spooge from running slow that will affect the packing in the silencer but carbon build up on the pipe should be a thing of the past IMHO.

Synthetics are great at minimizing carbon build-up. Correct jetting keeps the pipe hotter for more response and tends to minimize carbon build-up withing the exhaust system and spooge in the silencer packing.

Edit - Wibbens posted Mapp gas - certainly less change of burning a hole in the pipe and it would be harder to damage the plating on the pipe

I took Carvr's pipe in one time to be hot tanked and there was a rusty spot on his pipe. That **** ate right through all that rust and the pipe had a nice hole in it

Thanks for the tips.

PO had not changed jets for 2-3 years and has done various mods on the bike. Not sure if the jetting is off.. but

The last few times I've ridden the bike, I tried taking the bolt off to drain it and everytime a ton of goop comes out, so I'm guessing there's a ton of build up in there.

Also notice that when changing from 145MJ to 140MJ tons of smoke still comes out of the silencer. I was thinking if I was running leaner, I'd have less smoke. Or am I thinking this through wrong?

Hot tank is probably a bad idea for me. There's a few rust spots on the pipe.

don't jet by "smoke and spooge" amount, do it the proper way by checking the plug after a wot test. Do a search you'll find the proper walk through for jetting by Inda

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I took Carvr's pipe in one time to be hot tanked and there was a rusty spot on his pipe. That **** ate right through all that rust and the pipe had a nice hole in it

Certainly true that a rusty spot will be attacked by the hot tank cleaning method more so than the good metal. Same goes for the torch method - rusty spots will burn through easier than the good metal.

Gunna wake this one up if you don't mind.

I've never cleaned my stick silencer. Never even opened up the little "drain" bolt. I've got a propane torch, so I guess I could burn that motha out....but I'd sure hate to loose the stock paint on it.

I've torched other "packed" silencers before, so I know it can clean it up.

So for ya'll that have done the torch method....do you feel it worked? And I guess did you spray paint your silencer afterwards? SPray paint holding up?

some use bbq paint...

ihatefalling wrote:Gunna wake this one up if you don't mind.

I've never cleaned my stick silencer. Never even opened up the little "drain" bolt. I've got a propane torch, so I guess I could burn that motha out....but I'd sure hate to loose the stock paint on it.

I've torched other "packed" silencers before, so I know it can clean it up.

So for ya'll that have done the torch method....do you feel it worked? And I guess did you spray paint your silencer afterwards? SPray paint holding up?

Why would you want to paint it?

Oh you mean the stocker?

I don't know that I've ever heard anyone torching the stocker

I fired up the BBQ and cooked mine clean as a whistle!

Road Dawg....did it survive? I guess you had to repaint it? Any other update or advice?

It was fine. I did not have to repaint it either. It never lost its original color. It smoked like crazy and when I would open the lid fire came out, but I installed it and it works great. Cleaned all the splooge out of it that's for sure.

OK I hope you don't invite me over for BBQ

A little two stroke splooge adds just the right amount of flavor to my grilling!