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Of course my tail light socket has some surface rust in it. Bulb still gets in and out, but it's getting tougher.

My head light socket has a little grayish residue in there...looks like current "jumping" or something (I'm not an electrician).

I'm wondering if a little dielectric grease would be good for both sockets. I don't know what the grease is really used for....just looking for something that might help my cause.....thanks!

Sure- can't hurt, could help. Use enuf to prevent water intrusion.

Always a good idea. Use on spade connectors/etc as well.

And toast. It's good on toast.

Toast?


Now, what kind'a jerk response is that??



Re: 'I don't know what the grease is really used for...'

From the web: 'Dielectric grease is a NON-conducting grease that seals out moisture and therefore prevents corrosion on electrical connectors.'


Partly.


There's this:

The application of any sort of a nonconductive grease to the actual contacts themselves can't help them make better contact at that point. You have to hope the grease gets squeezed out of the way so the two conductors can make contact. Any grease left in there is going to reduce the contact, not improve it.
If the contacts are not perfectly clean, you'd be better off using something like WD-40 on them. WD-40 is designed to restore electrical contacts. It is a decent solvent and will get rid of a lot of corrosion and dirt in the contacts.

If the contacts are open and exposed to the air and water, it may make sense to apply a grease covering to them after the connection has been made. The grease then just acts as a sealant to keep out water and air, and may prevent corrosion from occurring.

__________________________________

I've seen written instructions that make it clear to not put such a grease ON the actual connection, but put it on OVER the connection. Some applications make that clearly impossible...like grease-filled wire nuts used in irrigation valve connections.

Take note of the air part in the above. In dissimilar metal applications (aluminum wire with any ferrous clamp/holder/ferrule) you want to keep air away from the connection.

Application of any grease is going to be a dirt catcher...and the taillight is a great place to 'see' dirt/dust/mud/junk. Cleaning that socket when it's full of grease and dirt is going to be problematic.

I'd vote for the WD-40 idea.

Take a look at the lens gasket and the wire entry grommet. Make sure they do what they're supposed to. A bit of RTV around that grommet will keep a lot of dirt out.


+++++++++++++++++++++

This is funny. In a forum where this is discussed (application of dielectric grease), there's this:

I installed some 65/100 watt headlamps and the connectors fried.

With a response of:

I am surprised. A 65/100-watt is not much power. In a 12-volt system a current flow of only 54-milliamperes is needed to provide the power.

That is an incorrect response. The guy is politely corrected...but he retorts with a DEFENSE of his original calculation.


54ma gets you 100 watts with 12V?


WoW! I need to let the power company know about this. They have been overcharging (ha) me for my power use at home for YEARS!!!


I think it was better he be thought a fool than for him to open his mouth and remove all doubt.



BTW...54ma at 12V gets you LESS than a watt:

One equation concerning power says P=IE: Power (in watts) = Current (in amps) <multiplied by> Voltage.

.054(amps/current) x 12(volts) = .648 (watts/power).

It is my opinion that a dielectric grease will improve the over all performance of any connection.

Check out this link;

Ron

canyncarvr wrote:Toast?


Now, what kind'a jerk response is that??

Hopefully the entertaining sort, otherwise it's just jerky.

My only concern with WD40 in this type application is that it's short-lived. Mostly kerosene, I think.

While I'm sure you're correct about it being an insulator (hell, it's in the name, no?) most spades are plenty tight enough to squeeze it out at the contact, and if they're not, the bigger danger is that they'll pop apart.

If you want to get really electronerdy, there are specialized products available for this type of application. Not being an electronerd, I use the grease, or maybe CorrosionX (a really good product).

Except for this part:

Basically this is a grease that conducts electricity...

dielectric (deye-i-LEK-trik)
A material that conducts (see conduction) electricity poorly or not at all. If a voltage is applied to a dielectric, the atom s in the material arrange themselves in such a way as to oppose the flow of electrical current. Glass, wood, and plastic are common dielectrics.


..even though Cornellius23 insists that he knows better.


Imagine a ScotchLok with a smear of conductive anything in it. That would work real well...if blowing fuses is what you're trying to accomplish.

For the record and all...say, for the general improvement of knowledge and facts-o-the-matter...do take note that a substance that is not conductive is NOT a substance that necessarily blocks electicity.

There's a difference.

Capacitor plates are separated by a dielectric compound 'fer instance. Capacitors do not 'block' electricity in the sense they do not prevent anything from getting 'through' them.

'Lectricity is fun, ain't it?

Well I think the whole idea of using the dielectric grease to help with plug together connections has gone south..........

The whole point here (as I see it) is to keep a good connection through all types of problems like moisture, heat and oxidation.

Both the auto industry and now even the motorcycle industry use these types of grease on most all plug-in connections to keep them from failing.

One of the BIGGEST problems in these plug together connections is the heat created by the current flowing through the connector. Also vibration and even the movement of a wiring harness where parts can articulate or move. All of this can cause movement in the connection it self.

As the connector heats up and cools off the metal parts of the connection will move (most connectors are made of steel and coated with zinc or cad). The connections can also move from vibration and tugging.

What does the grease do????? Well it keeps the connection lubricated and moisture tight. This will allow the connection to breath so to speak. It can move and expand and contract without allowing dirt and moisture and other contaminates to get between the connection points. The moisture in metal parts will corrode and with current applied, it can burn and arc.

The grease will also help dissipate and transfer heat. This is why it is used in electronics.

Now I could be wrong here....... But this is my understanding on the use of dielectric grease on connections (I have also used silicone grease like Sil-Glyde); The grease will coat the connection and keep it moisture free. It will allow the connection to expand and contract with heat created in the connection. It will keep oxidation from forming on the connection. In my opinion this is a "win" situation. I have used this idea for 30 plus years in both the automotive and motorcycle field.

So this is why it will improve your connection, "in my opinion". If you have ever unplugged a connector on any late model car, you have seen this grease or felt it on your finger.

Ron

As I recall from my electronics days, although any capacitor has some direct current leakage, in practical terms it blocks DC current entirely. It does store and transmit electrical field energy in an AC or pulsating DC system, but that's a different animal, IMO, than direct conduction (with respect to the term "dielectric" as used in DC systems). Conduction can really get weird as frequency rates climb, so comparing AC or pulsating system characteristics collectively to DC system characteristics is kinda rough on the nogg'n (at least for me!).

Dielectric grease is also commonly used to completely enclose coax connections in the field, when used, for example, with water meter transmitters - where moisture and dirt define the environment. The most common problem with low voltage connectors I've come across is arcing at the point of connection. The arcing mostly comes from corroding contact points that have become intermittently conductive. I would think that enclosing with grease would greatly reduce that problem.

PS. the spring loaded tension on a light socket connection would immediately force any grease away from the contacts, I'd bet, especially when the entire machine is subject to engine vibration.

RBD wrote:...I have also used silicone grease like Sil-Glyde...

Having had at one point a tube of Sil-Glyde and a tube of 'Spark Plug Boot Lubricant' simultaneously I came to the entirely UNscientific conclusion that they were the same. Only have one now; seems to work fine.