KDXRIDER.NET

I've been looking locally at KDXs(haven't ruled out going with a CRF 250X yet) but could use some help on these two bikes is the better buy:

1) 2004 KDX 200 - $2400, "Super clean! Runs great. Very low hours. Like new, no damage. All plastic in great condition. FMF Gold Series Gnarly exhaust and silencer." The pics look very clean.

Does the price seem too High? What be a reasonable asking price and what would you offer based on the info above?

2) 1997 Kawasaki Model KDX 220R - $1100,
"Runs GREAT!! NO repairs needed... motor rebuilt in 2002
Been sitting in the garage for the last 4 years. Tires and brakes work great,
this bike has been well cared for!!"


What do you suggest ea. bike is worth? which is the better buy? What are some of the things I should watch out for when looking at these two bikes?

It depends....don't it?

If you're looking for a 'like new' bike of a late year...the '04 is about as late as it gets. The $2400 part? Kelley says $2140.

PowerSports lists the MSRP of the '04 @ $3999. A $1600 hit is certainly not pocket change.

Fact is, resale value of dirtbikes is squat.

I am usually in the position of really Really REALLY wanting something if I'm buying it. Consider that the bike isn't made anymore..you couldn't go down to your local dealer and buy an '09 if you wanted to.

So...what's it worth to you? If you're itchin' for one'a these not-made-anymore bikes...$2400 ain't terrible. Not absolutely the best deal ever, either.

Part of the reason dirtbike resale is so rotten is that they lead a dang hard life...if they're used for their intended purpose, anyway. That '97 most likely has more'n a few problems that need attention. I have no idea what 'rebuilt' means...but I'd be leery of any bike that had the cases split if I didn't know who did the work.

What to watch for? ...you're new to dirtbikes? If you know nothing about 'em, on the top of the list is: Take someone with you that DOES know about 'em.

This: 'FMF Gold Series Gnarly exhaust and silencer' tells me the person selling it doesn't know a damn thing about the bike. He thinks the words describe something...and he's wrong. Nothing about it says WHAT PROFILE OF PIPE IT IS (this is a particular gripe of mine to start with)...and that's something certainly most buyers would be interested in. Is it a 'rev' profile or a 'torque' profile? How you intend to ride it...WHERE you intend to ride it makes that an important choice.

The 'silencer' part: Is it a silencer? Is it a spark arrestor? Does he know the difference? A silencer does not HAVE a spark arrestor in it, and as such, shouldn't ever be ridden in the woods. Indeed, in most places it's illegal to do so. A US Forestry approved spark arrestor will be stamped/engraved with, 'This spark arrestor meets all applicable....blah blah blah...' If that is NOT on the thing...it is NOT an approved spark arrestor. Ride it around here and you're asking for a $250 ticket...and may have to carry your bike out of the woods on your back.


Get what I'm saying? Someone selling a bike that uses words to describe it that mean absolutely nothing lends no credence to anything the seller says.

If the guy said, 'mag wheels, HotShot cams, and Holley carburetor...'..what's that say about what the guy knows about a two-stroke dirtbike?

If you're not a dirtbiker (your 'what to look for' question indicates that) and you don't know someone who is, there's quite a list of things to check for on any used dirtbike that will give you a pretty good idea of how well it's been maintained...and that will relate directly to $$ out of your pocket to fix it.

IMO, they are both good buys. You need to look at the bikes to determine how much time they really have on them.... things to look at include footpeg wear, rim edge surface condition and roundness, sprocket and chain buffer wear, condition of brake rotors, etc. I tend not to worry about plastic damage as many of these bikes were used by newbies who crashed more than most, but didn't put much time on the mechanicals.

Regarding the CRF250X, I had one for two years before I replaced it with the KDX220 I have now. The suspension on the honda is awesome and is in a different league than the KDX....but careful suspension setup and a USD fork conversion will make the KDX just as good for trail work. The Honda is a little more at home on fireroad type stuff, but not as responsive in single track situations. The honda is noticeably heavier to lift, and that extra weight will take you down in tight single track where the KDX can avoid an obstacle. The honda is a bit longer. The honda is a maintenance whore that will cost much more time and money than the essentially bullet-proof KDX. A free-modded honda is similar to the KDX220 power-wise, but I have found really rough uphills easier on the KDX, for example.

If you are up to tweaking a KDX as many of us have, and aren't rich, I think you will be much happier with the Kawi. I know I am.

From the web (and this sure ain't all of it):

Used Dirt Bike Checklist



Check the obvious things like broken plastics, a torn seat cover, bent handle bars, worn tyres, broken clutch and brake levers, and a worn chain and sprockets.
Make sure the chassis number has not been scratched off... this indicates a stolen bike.
Check the (wheel) rims for cracks and bends.
Check the frame/chassis - look for cracks, fractures and old repair jobs.
How worn are the (brake) discs? If there are noticeable grooves where the pads touch - the bike has been well used.
Is the kickstart sloppy? If so, this is another sign of a well used bike. Look for fractures also - new ones are not cheap.
Check the radiator for bent cooling fins and cracks. Make sure it's topped up and not leaking.
Make sure the front brakeline is not worn from the guide on the front fork. If it is, this needs to be replaced.
Put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Try and move the rear of the swingarm from side to side to check the swingarm bearings. There should be very minimal movement here - no more than 4-5mm. If there is, the bearings will need replacing.
Gripping the tyre like a steering wheel - wriggle the front and rear wheels to check the wheel bearings. You don't really want any movement here.
Hold onto the lower end of the front forks with the wheel off the ground and try move them back and forward. If you feel a bit of movement in the steering head, the steering head bearings may be on their way out too... $$$
Check the fork seals are not leaking. You will see oil traces down the front forks if they are.

Everything looking good so far? It's time to take it for a spin!

When starting the bike, check the compression in the kick start. If the piston is worn out, the down stroke will be soft and effortless. Unless you have ridden a number of bikes this will be difficult to gauge though. Especially on different sized engines.


Next, listen to the engine. If it makes loud, unusual tapping noises, then it could mean the motor's well worn and requires a rebuild. Again, this can only be picked up by someone with experience.


Now for the fun part! After a decent warm up... give it s#@! You need to be able to open it right up to really see how it runs. So make sure you have a decent area to test her out in.


Make sure you feel comfortable with its power delivery and 'rideability'. After all... a tweaked-out, peaky, two-stroke rocket isn't necessarily going to make you ride better... and you certainly don't want a smoke-billowing slug.

_________________________________________

Don't take all of the above as gospel. It gives you an idea of what to look for. A swingarm that has 4-5mm of slop in it has been shot-to-hell for quite awhile!

Check the final drive, too. A chain and sprocket set is spendy...pushing $180-200. Pull the chain away from the rear sprocket AT the back of the sprocket. If you can pull the chain 1/2 a link away from the sprocket...the final drive is shot. The KDX200 came with a non-ringed chain. It's a piece of crap that might last for a few rides. If the chain is ringed you know it's been replaced at least once.

Tires maybe $60/ea..and that doesn't count mounting 'em if you don't do it youself...and the new tubes you will want to put in.

The honda is a maintenance whore....

canyncarvr wrote:From the web (and this sure ain't all of it):

Next, listen to the engine. If it makes loud, unusual tapping noises, then it could mean the motor's well worn and requires a rebuild.


....

A KDX has a noticible noisy engine... this is the KIPS in action.... it will sound like a tapping, loose bearing or chain slap.... Kinda hard to describe if you have never heard it but I thought it would be a good thing to point out.

Yep.

If you don't know dirtbikes...or KDXs...describing 'noise' as 'bad' isn't too helpful.

If the engine noise changes when you pull in the clutch lever..THAT is the racket the KDX is 'famous' for.


This is informative:

CLICKY!

Is the garage clean and organized? In what condition is the owner's truck?

Which is to say...don't buy a bike from me! You would be getting some POS that's been maintained better'n 98.6% of the bikes out there.

I'm no KDXpert, but I did just buy a '98 200. I'm also not that far away from you, in NE. I think $2400 is too much for the '04, maybe 2 grand. As canyncarvr said, the '97 will need some work and who knows how well the "rebuild" was done.
I paid less than 1000 for my '98, but it needed tires, chain/sprockets, and the suspension freshened up. Adds up quick.

Not sure what side of MO you are on, but a friend of mine has a nice '00 220R for sale in St Louis for $1500.

The KDX is generally considered an 'entry level' dirtbike by those that think they know a lot of stuff. That's a good part of why they're generally cheep on the used market.

Among the faithful though, the KDX is considered a perfect woods bike and plenty of riders that have wandered from the KDX fold have come back to the old green thing.

I don't suppose this being the KDXRider website gives you that idea, 'eh?

Heck...the '04 could easily need a good bit of work, too.

I'm not trying to make your choice difficult for you...what with pages of 'check this and this' junk...but there is no better armed consumer than an informed consumer. A dirtbike is not a toy you ride once in awhile, then park it and forget about it. Most riders are rather touched in the head about riding in general...and their particular ride in particular.

You have to admit it takes a bit of a wonk to spend thousands of dollars on a machine then haul it out into the mud, dirt, and rocks...beat the life out of it (that's when it's being ridden. That doesn't count the times the bike/rider separate and the bike goes careening down the hill end over end and stuff like that. Meanwhile the rider gets impaled on some tree branch or sumthin'), haul it home, spend plenty more fixing what you broke on the ride, maintaining what you didn't break (yet), all so you can go do it again next time.

No. We're all perfectly reasonable folk.

Oh No!! Did I mispell cheep??

So shoot me.

I like this thread.

One last comment...if you are patient, KDX's from ALL years made can be had from people who just didn't ride them much at all, I see them on craigslist, I see them in showrooms, and I bought one too. You may not have to settle for a "rebuilt". I don't think blue book or any other kind of marker means diddle either...if you can get a low-time bike model that you really want (like new mechanically) for under 2500 you're doing well IMO - KDX's from 95 up are essentially all the same. Now is great time to buy any brand used dirt bike, I've never seen them priced so low. Good luck!

My $.03...

the guy *wants* $2400. Chances are slim to none that he'll get it this late in the season in this economy. There's a guy local to me forced to sell a 7 hour '09 KTM; been on the market since March and he's come down $1000...

If it's not too far away go check it out. Look for flaws, then hammer him on price. "Well, I'll need to replace that flux capacitor, that's $50 if I do the work.... tires will need new before the end of the season, chain and sprockets are due..." Offer him ~$1900 cash if you like it; worst he can say is no. Then you call him back in 3 weeks and ask again.

FWIW, I bought an '06 in March for $1400; it needed some TLC (sprockets, chain, tires, bearing lube....) but now for less than $1900 (incl new pipe and tires) I've got a killer runner.

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kawagumby wrote:One last comment...if you are patient, KDX's from ALL years made can be had from people who just didn't ride them much at all, I see them on craigslist, I see them in showrooms, and I bought one too. You may not have to settle for a "rebuilt". I don't think blue book or any other kind of marker means diddle either...if you can get a low-time bike model that you really want (like new mechanically) for under 2500 you're doing well IMO - KDX's from 95 up are essentially all the same. Now is great time to buy any brand used dirt bike, I've never seen them priced so low. Good luck!

With respect kawagumby - the dirt bike (actually ANY bike) market in California is different from the midwest. I've been watching craigslist in Omaha, Sioux City, Kansas City, Des Moines since April. IMHO $2400 is way too steep for a KDX around here. I got my '98 200 for 750 bucks Granted, I'll probably have 1300+ into it by the time I make it a decent trail bike (again). Mostly just normal wear stuff though. I'm gonna try to finance the fix-up by parting out my '76 RM370 money pit on eBay

There's a guy selling a '91 200 locally for 1400 firm. He's dreamin' at that price. Especially since I know the previous owner and the seller only paid him 1000 for it

Here's mine. New fork boots are on the way.

Thanks for all the good feedback. I feel like I'm heading down the correct path with a KDX. I'm going to take a look at a few bikes. Unfortunately I know of nobody who rides to take with me to look at bikes. Once I get the bike and trailer then I will look for some people to ride with. s
Anybody in the St. Louis area willing to let a noobee(Paramedic/Firefighter) tag along?

SOARSKI, I sent you an e-mail with details on my friend's '00 KDX220R for sale in STL.

Of the two bikes that the OP listed, I would take the '97 without even thinking about it - if it has a pipe on it ($200). If it has the stock pipe, I would think about it.
From 1995 to 2007 the bikes had no improvements or changes besides color of plastic parts, and graphics.
In the tight New England woods where I ride, the KDX just can not be beat. I have owned a lot of bikes over the years, and I just came full circle and picked up an '04 KDX200 for $1200, but it was ridden hard and put away wet.

SOARSKI wrote:I've been looking locally at KDXs(haven't ruled out going with a CRF 250X yet) but could use some help on these two bikes is the better buy:

1) 2004 KDX 200 - $2400, "Super clean! Runs great. Very low hours. Like new, no damage. All plastic in great condition. FMF Gold Series Gnarly exhaust and silencer." The pics look very clean.

Does the price seem too High? What be a reasonable asking price and what would you offer based on the info above?

2) 1997 Kawasaki Model KDX 220R - $1100,
"Runs GREAT!! NO repairs needed... motor rebuilt in 2002
Been sitting in the garage for the last 4 years. Tires and brakes work great,
this bike has been well cared for!!"


What do you suggest ea. bike is worth? which is the better buy? What are some of the things I should watch out for when looking at these two bikes?

I found another KDX that looks good, although it's about 4 hrs away:
2005 KDX 200 asking $2000
"Excellent Condition,New at the beginning of last season (April 08),126 total miles, used about 15 times, Thorough maintenance"

Checkout the pics (there is about 70 of them) at http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj241/hip66/kdx200/

The bike looks to be pretty stock, no aftermarket pipe, barkbusters etc.. Looks extremely clean but I know looks can be deceiving.

I'm going to look at the 2004 this weekend.

It's clean and looks nice. I highly doubt that he tore apart the the swingarm and greased the bearings along with the steering stem... this needs to be done on any new KDX since grease is at a premium in Japan evidently. I also doubt if he changed the pond scum in the forks that they call suspension fluid.

Those are good questions to ask... well... without the sarcasm of course!

SOARSKI wrote:I've been looking locally at KDXs(haven't ruled out going with a CRF 250X yet) but could use some help on these two bikes is the better buy:

1) 2004 KDX 200 - $2400, "Super clean! Runs great. Very low hours. Like new, no damage. All plastic in great condition. FMF Gold Series Gnarly exhaust and silencer." The pics look very clean.

Does the price seem too High? What be a reasonable asking price and what would you offer based on the info above?

2) 1997 Kawasaki Model KDX 220R - $1100,
"Runs GREAT!! NO repairs needed... motor rebuilt in 2002
Been sitting in the garage for the last 4 years. Tires and brakes work great,
this bike has been well cared for!!"


What do you suggest ea. bike is worth? which is the better buy? What are some of the things I should watch out for when looking at these two bikes?

I went to look at the 2004 KDX today. This is the second owner of the bike. The bike looks lightly used as there is very little paint wear around the foot pegs, brake and gear shifter. Every thing is stock except for levers, pipe and exhuast. I was told the pipe was for low end torque and it does have a spark arrestor. All bearings seemed to be tight, frame looked good, plastic intact, fluids were clean, no movement in the swing arm, pads and rotors looked good, coolant bright blue. New O-ring chain put on last year, but not sprockets. Changes the fluids and cleans airf ilter once a year but says he doesn't do much riding, just following the little ones around, this year he has 16 mi. on the bike so far. Usually goes riding about 7-8 per year. Shocks have never been serviced. Tires are original, front looks good rear my guess would be 85% left. I couldn't find anything obviously wrong with the bike except for the fact the air filter could have been cleaned more often.

If I had to put on the after market exhaust and silencer on myself how much would that cost me?

Nearly300 bucks. Sounds like a great bike to buy....original tires means you should have a bike that's like new internally. Just remember what everyone here says and grease the shock linkage, the swingarm and steering head bearings.

I just rejoined the KDX fold...my '99 is a practice bike.
I race HS on a KTM EXC250. Yet I look forward to playing with the KDX. I have been riding/racing for many moons...having owned and raced an '86 KDX and a '91. Countless others in the interim...(Honda's, Husqvarna, etc.)

Good site and post!