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Would anyone know if any harm would be done to the bikes electrical system or the headlight itself if I solder in a bead in between both filaments on OEM type headlight bulb? Would it even be any brighter? Yes I do have an upgated lighting coil that I purchased here. I have been looking for an upgraded light to go with the coil but so far no luck considering local is B/O and everything online cost fortunes just in shipping.

It would be brighter, 'natch. I don't recall if the two filaments are the same current draw or not. They kind'a look the same I recall. Now THERE'S some scientific facticity for 'ya.


I've bridged the two contacts, but only after the first filament died.

I recall a question a long time back about the heat that would be generated. Don't recall it was ever answered.

IMO, you're better off using a piece of wire between the contacts rather than putting a solder bridge across them. Takes just a touch of heat to connect them using wire.

Let us know how it works out!

I knew you would be the first to answer this CC, the bulb has 30/30w written on it so guess it would be the same wattage for both filaments.

After your own recomendation I too bridged both contacts after the first died, and thats the reason I thouht of doing it with a good one. Why would it be better using a piece of wire? The 2 contact are so close.

As for heat, I image kawasaki engineers were bright enough that if they put a 2 filament bulb they at least put a lens that can take the heat. In any case the worse that can happen is a melted lense right?

I thought it was a 30/30 bulb..but wasn't fer-shure and didn't bother looking it up..hence the hedge.

Re: 'Why would it be better using a piece of wire? The 2 contact are so close.'

I can solder. Well...used to. ..meaning .010" spaced flat lead packs of LSI SMDs. AMRIP certified (Avionic Module repair) and all that. Granted, that was awhile back...but I haven't forgot everythin'. The contacts on the bulb are solder. The socket used is less than 'robust' when it comes to contact configuration. It wouldn't take much deformation of the bulb nubbins to cause a connection problem. Both of the nubbins will be flowed at the same time (read: heat!) with a solder bridge approach. That is not the case with using a bit of small wire (a few strands of anything will suffice). A solder bridge would probably work just fine..it simply wasn't my choice of shunt method.

It's not the lens of the shell that's the issue, I would suppose. It's the socket and the plastic close to the blub.

...both of which may be just fine.

I make mountains out of molehills sometimes.

OK OK...a lot......

Give it a shot. Post up a factoid about what you find out.

If the wiring, socket, and seal are able to take the higher heat, then that may be the worst that could happen. I don't know that they are, but you could give it a try and feel those components for a while before you go on a long ride to make sure they don't overheat.

Guess that means I have to get that coil intaled then. The weather here has been realy bad here the past few weeks so it may take a while before I get out but i'll post as soon as the tests have been made.