Re: '220 is a Canadian model...'
..which, as far as I thought I knew, was NOT a US model bike.
A 200 (later 'H' models) from Canada? That would have been imported from the US at some point in time, so it WOULD have been a US model.
There was certainly some distinction along those lines.
Maybe you have an SR cylinder..maybe you have an SR bike.
Something I
don't think I know...I'm
sure I know...the SR is different in quite a few ways from the US model..and you aren't likely to ever know how many!
On this forum there are threads going round-n-round about that: 'Is a US import.' 'No it's not, it's an SR' No, it's a US import. I just need a PN for the
SPEEDO..'
..stuff like that.
Bearings are different, water pumps are different..just a lot of stuff ain't the same.
THAT said....resolve your pipe leak problem and you won't care, right?
Align your pipe. Get a couple of good-sized steel bars that will fit either in (probably the cylinder end) or over (probably the stinger side). With the two bars inserted and applying (not a whole lot) of pressure in the direction needed, you can make your pipe fit much better than it likely does now.
Use your silencer as a guide (considering that IT isn't beat up). If you still have the stock silencer around..use that as as guide. It's not too likely to be wonky 'cuz it's tough..steel for one, not aluminum.
Start: Put your pipe in the cylinder, hold it with the springs. It should be square into the cylinder..and you can SEE that by simply looking at the first weld on the head-pipe and comparing it to the cylinder. You should be able to move the pipe on any 'line' (180ยบ apart) and feel the end of the pipe clunk/snick/seat squarely into the cylinder. If not, look for where on the frame or whatever the pipe is getting hung up. Tweak it with your two bar tools to clear that up..so that your pipe DOES fit square in the cylinder.
Now...at least hold the silencer to the bike as it would be mounted. Note how the stinger and the silencer probably don't line up. Again, using your two pipe alignment tools..bend the pipe so it DOES line up.
When you're done, the pipe will still fit square to the cylinder, both mounting tabs will be easily accessible (no bending, tweaking, twisting of anything) and if (this for future reference or maybe an aftermarket piper) you're running a -30 pipe (larger diameter bell of the two FmF pipes), the pipe will not be touching the RH rad shroud.
If you have a decent vise (6-8" firmly attached to something), holding the pipe by one or other of the hangers may be helpful.
I've done all this..a few times. Generally when I am fed up with my...exhaust leaking all the time (even with silicone).
Of course...the teeny catch is I've done this with **edit courtesy of Mr. Wibbens. I was thinking of the spark arrestor cannister..which I've tweaked on some, too) aluminum** aftermarket pipes. It will work with the OEM pipe, too.
Once the alignment is at the least somewhat improved, silicone properly applied WILL keep that joint from leaking.
Which, by the way...I do notice nothing in the way of silicone on the joint of your pipe. Where is it? The 'properly applied' part will have a good lot of silicone bead when you take the pipe out. You either cleaned it particularly well (taking care to leave some carbon between the rings) or the 'properly applied' part wasn't.
**edit**I generally forget the 'e' and no 'e'...for anyone that already read it and know different...now it IS different!
It is a 2002 KDX220R (A9) although it was registered here in 2003. It has a Canadian VIN plate so I suspect it was intended for the Canadian market but redirected to the UK, there are few Canadian badged KDX's here. 
