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Just sent of my head and carb today to get RB'd. Cant wait to get her back and see the difference. I am racing in 3 weeks and the Monkyebutt 100 and cant wait to try out the RB'd 220 in a race.

What are everyone's opinions on CEK or DEK? I like the torque monster the 220 is, but also like to rip from time to time.

Buy both to test them, but the C taper is more of a midrange boost with a little hit to it, and the D taper is smoother offering better power throughout.

This was the conclusion I came to using CEL and DEL needles on a stock carby.

cek is more like a light switch too much hit for me

dek is nice and smooth, power all the way though

As has been said get both and give them a try in the #4 clip position to start. With a 220 i'd start with the CEK actually as its milder porting and larger displacement would be a nicer overall package. If it doesn't work out
you've got the DEK to try as well. Are you having RB work over your head as well?

CEK CEK CEK CEK CEK . . . did I say CEK??

I love the way my 220 comes "on" when I've got things right, and part of that is the CEK. Morie is right, #4 clip position

Yeah, Ron is doing the head mod as well. CEK sounds exciting. I like the idea of it being able to rip a bit. Cant wait to try it out.

Don't forget to have Ron add a extended air screw to the carby, it really helps for dialing in on the trail.

Air screw being added. I liked having it on my '92, makes it easy to find the SSS.

I like the idea of it being able to rip a bit.

Keep in mind that it has nothing to do with peak power, but more the actual power delivery in the midrange. The CEK will have more of a surge. IMHO, smoother is almost always better when it comes to this. If you ever acutally need a 'surge' of power you can use the clutch to do it, and you're in control of when it happens. If you were to clock the bike in a 1/4mi, both needles would produce the same ET.

Picking it all up this afternoon. Ron is the man. Sent it out on Saturday and pick it up on Monday!

I went with the CEK and I got a DEK as well. I will play around with both of them to see which one I prefer. It would be cool to have one for open terrain and one for tight quarters.

Re: '...IMHO, smoother is almost always better.'

Amen.

A big HIT with the corresponding tire spin and no traction accomplishes...what? While you SOUND like you're going faster quicker more...in fact, you're not!

I would suppose both needles would produce a quite similar ET. Whether the 'C' needle is not involved or the 'D' needle is not involved (both runs @ WOT), neither of them would be involved.

Tire spin and traction I can control with good tires and a steady throttle hand.

For the open terrain I like the hit to come on quick. For tight, tuff stuff it is a toss up. You can short shift and run a gear higher like I did a lot on my KTM's to "control" the hit. But, a nice "electric" power delivery is also nice in tight terrain.

I agree that a quick hitting 2-stroke can wear you out, but can also be fun. Like I said, I will play around with both of them on Sunday's ride.

Tire spin and traction I can control with good tires and a steady throttle hand.

For the open terrain I like the hit to come on quick. For tight, tuff stuff it is a toss up. You can short shift and run a gear higher like I did a lot on my KTM's to "control" the hit. But, a nice "electric" power delivery is also nice in tight terrain.

I agree that a quick hitting 2-stroke can wear you out, but can also be fun. Like I said, I will play around with both of them on Sunday's ride.

'...and a steady throttle hand.'

You can have a hand as steady as Michelangelo's David..it don't matter with a CEK. Not on a 2-hunny anyway.

If 'good tire' means trelleborgs..they might work for traction. It would also mean you would be picking yourself up off your arse on a regular basis.

Like Wibby said..light switch...in which case running a gear up isn't of any use.

Try to turn a light on 'a little bit'. Unless the internal yoke is busted (and the switch sizzles, pops and hisses), you won't have much luck.

Nunna that matters, of course. What does matter is your making the choice between the two for what suits you.

..and the fun you'll have figuring that out.

Just play with both... the CEK was fun for about an hour... then the DEK went in and I haven't looked back.

Remeber, I have owned 2 KTM 200's, so CEK may be right up my alley. Of course, I got rid of both of them because the KDX is more tractorable.

You will like the CEK then... made mine feel like my old KTM.

Indawoods wrote:my old KTM.

The Horror!

I love the personality of the 220 with the "hit" - geez, I think they NEED some hit!!

I HAVE to disagree (and I don't find myself doing that very much with this bunch) that if tune a bike for a hit I somehow have to give up my ability to lug my bike.

And I'm scratching my head over the notion that a hit necessarily translates into wheelspin which translates into uncontrollable power.

Finally, if I get the wheel spinning more quickly, sooner, and can get good traction, and manage to keep the front end down, I'm going faster, PERIOD!! It's called increased acceleration. The circumference of the wheel, being constant and applying a definate distance per revolution, translates into the bike moving that distance per revolution . . . more revolutions, more distance, viola - FASTER!!!

I'm not running a 200 simultaneously so I can't prove it, but I'm beginning to suspect that a 220 may be the bike of choice for the optimal KDX, and it's the "two-hunny" owners that are raising said suspicion!!

The 220 is just a mellower bike that's all....